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The car has a Sharkworks Bypass Exhaust. I went on their site and could not find anything to reference bypass. Can someone tell me if this could be the sport one or the track one? I called Sharkworks and they told me about both options. Also learned, as expected, that you lose low end torque. Anyone with this setup can please share your experience?
They charge 1800-2000 for the service since the rear bumper needs to come off. Can I do it myself and still be able to avoid warranty issues? I can buy the plugs from my dealer and do it. It can't be too difficult ore more difficult than working on my other builds.
Many on here do it themselves or use a cheaper indy shop. For sure keep receipts and info on when you changed them, I believe Porsche is one of the few companies who don't demand a dealer do it to maintain warranty. Having said that I have 6 plugs and the tool, can easily remove the bumper, but will have the dealer do my first plug change so its officially on the books with them. Did the oil and brake fluid which will cut down on the cost a bit. But yes I think you're good to go on changing the plugs yourself. Talking to the service rep at my local dealer he says Porsche is aggressive with the plugs and air filters in these cars because Porsche assumes all are being tracked and those are "tracked car intervals,"...overkill for a road only car but they hold us to it for warranties. Nice to know that a company assumes (and encourages) track use .
The car has a Sharkworks Bypass Exhaust. I went on their site and could not find anything to reference bypass. Can someone tell me if this could be the sport one or the track one? I called Sharkworks and they told me about both options. Also learned, as expected, that you lose low end torque. Anyone with this setup can please share your experience?
The "bypasses" are simply rear muffler replacements. Sharkwerks is a good one because it is very close sounding to stock, slightly louder, but maintains valve functionality. If the valves are functioning then no loss in low end torque. If valves are disconnected on the 4.0 liter then likely no or very insignificant low end torque loss...I think torque loss was a bigger issue with the 3.8s and not so much the 4.0. Sharkwerks bypass a very good bypass. Should look like this and may have stock or aftermarket tips on...The aftermarket tips are the tips on the car in the pic (think they 105 mm?)...
Sharkwerks "bypass":
Sharkwerks 105 mm tips installed (other rear bypass is a GRP/BBi):
@KA 991 GT3 +1 for this review below, I too have the same set-up. It's also nice SW decided to design it fully utilizing all the stock mounts for the OEM exhaust can (will wiggle less under load, if at all).
Unplugged valves is the way to go...you gain sharp downshift, full revving sound before 0-4k RPM, and thus get satisfaction even driving slowly around town at any speed (race car vibes 24/7). Unlike other Center Deletes, SW designed it so there's no drone.
Hard to say on any torque loss, can't really tell, if it's there - very minor...
Originally Posted by rhk118
The "bypasses" are simply rear muffler replacements. Sharkwerks is a good one because it is very close sounding to stock, slightly louder, but maintains valve functionality. If the valves are functioning then no loss in low end torque. If valves are disconnected on the 4.0 liter then likely no or very insignificant low end torque loss...I think torque loss was a bigger issue with the 3.8s and not so much the 4.0. Sharkwerks bypass a very good bypass. Should look like this and may have stock or aftermarket tips on...The aftermarket tips are the tips on the car in the pic (think they 105 mm?)...
Sharkwerks "bypass":
Sharkwerks 105 mm tips installed (other rear bypass is a GRP/BBi):
A lot more. The engine in the .2 is a Motorsport engine with real dry sump, defoamer unit, changed internals etc. vs .1
Engine procure significant more hp, most tested above 500.
So far engine have been a lot more reliable
some other tweaks as well, aero, PCM unit in car with apple car play etc,
look for pitted windshield and headlights, inner fender, etc to see if it was tracked, not bad but negotiation point
What's the difference in dry sump design between the .1 and .2 motors? I've been seeing an increase of reports of .2 engine failures lately which leaves me a little apprehensive on making a change.
In addition to the better PCM, I notice the .2 PDK shifts much smoother and it didn't have the lightweight flywheel cement mixer @ idle sound. The steering felt more muted as well, but not bad. Personally I prefer the more raw feel of the .1 in those areas but the increased midrange was hard to ignore. I drove my .1 and a .2 this past weekend back to back at the track and found I could keep it in 3rd in slower corners and leave with nearly the same level of grunt as my .1 in 2nd. The 4.0 definitely impressed, but I still set a faster time in my .1
What's the difference in dry sump design between the .1 and .2 motors? I've been seeing an increase of reports of .2 engine failures lately which leaves me a little apprehensive on making a change.
In addition to the better PCM, I notice the .2 PDK shifts much smoother and it didn't have the lightweight flywheel cement mixer @ idle sound. The steering felt more muted as well, but not bad. Personally I prefer the more raw feel of the .1 in those areas but the increased midrange was hard to ignore. I drove my .1 and a .2 this past weekend back to back at the track and found I could keep it in 3rd in slower corners and leave with nearly the same level of grunt as my .1 in 2nd. The 4.0 definitely impressed, but I still set a faster time in my .1
I got to track my .1 once and wish I did more events. I am working with the guys at XPEL Austin to get it wrapped up along with the ceramic coating before the next track event but I think I will invest in a session or two at Harris Hill before hitting COTA. Would love to find a group of GT3/RS owners to do some meets around town. I should be picking her up Friday from Houston. I will miss the Z but I am sure that after 10 minutes in the seat of the .2 I will be more than ok
A two year old car with 4K miles and a remaining factory warranty should have an extreme amount of due diligence before even considering.
Bring a legal team to the dealer just to be safe.
I'm shopping for a Ferrari 360 spider right now, my other "poor man's" bucket list car. Buying one without a PPI is akin to jumping off a cliff in the Ferrari world. Made me realize how much less worry is involved in buying a late model GT3 between the CPO and the 10 year/120K engine warranty we have on our .1s. These cars have so few "known" issues. The time to PPI a GT3 IMHO is right before whatever warranties the car has run out.
I got to track my .1 once and wish I did more events. I am working with the guys at XPEL Austin to get it wrapped up along with the ceramic coating before the next track event but I think I will invest in a session or two at Harris Hill before hitting COTA. Would love to find a group of GT3/RS owners to do some meets around town. I should be picking her up Friday from Houston. I will miss the Z but I am sure that after 10 minutes in the seat of the .2 I will be more than ok
I was at Harris Hill last weekend and with the new pavement it's genuinely fun in a GT3 now that you're not getting air every 50 feet from the bumps. Of course COTA is the big dog in town but that always involves more prep, more money, and more intimidating walls when getting used to your new car. Harris Hill is now the perfect place to get acclimated to your car. There's a Texas GT Facebook group if you're on there. I've met some local Austin guys for drives and at COTA days: https://www.facebook.com/groups/texasgtclub
Good luck on Friday and congrats! Let us know what you think.
This is at a private dealer. They do not have a shop to service vehicles. I will look over all these items for sure. The car is still under full Porsche warranty, I am sure if there are any leaks they would take care of it.
I am going to have to do an oil change, air filter change and brake fluid service as well in the first week I get it. Any need to do spark plugs yet? I saw that as part of the check list on the 2-year service recommendations.
Shouldn't they allow you to send it to a shop for a thorough PPI?
for a car of that caliber, I will insist on PPI from a good Porsche dealership , also I will be hesitant to buy from a non brand dealership
cars that are super clean usually get picked by their respective brand dealer through multiple channels
less stellar cars get send to the auction and this is where private dealers pick most of their cars
if I were you and you like this car
ask the dealer how did they acquire the car
do PPI at Porsche dealer that serviced the car
and then pull the trigger if all is good
10-28-2020, 04:23 PM
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