WP0

Has anyone adjusted their own sway bars in a 991 GT3 or GT3 RS? Is there a reason why no one has? (Too difficult; need special tools, etc.)

There were a couple of posts from 2015 and 2018 inquiring about this, but there were no answers to those inquiries.

Thanks.

GrantG

Very simple - takes just a few minutes (easier if the wheels are off anyway but may not be necessary). Just needs proper sized wrenches (one hex for nut and one Torx to hold bolt from back side when you turn nut, by memory).

I like to use Loctite when tightening.

Choose an inside hole to stiffen and outside to soften.

Soften front bar and/or stiffen rear bar to reduce understeer and vice versa.

Front bar tends to affect turn-in more and rear bar tends to affect corner exit more.

WP0

Thanks Grant!

Is it difficult to move the screw to a new setting in the bar, or is it adjustable without much effort?
Any idea on the torque specifications for the screws once they're set?

Thanks.

GrantG

It’s not difficult to move hole - may require a little bit of pressure on end of bar though.

I can’t remember the torque spec, but hand tight is fine. Loctite helps prevent from loosening and making noise.

WP0

Thanks!

Jimmy-D

Some one recommended on the .2 Rear "full soft" and Front "Middle" for street driving

Thoughts??

WP0

While I'm not the expert, I doubt that anyone can tell the difference between any sway bar settings while driving on the street. . . .unless you're talking about driving the streets of Monaco during the Grand Prix!

GrantG

Maybe good for a beginner, but that’s a recipe for quite a bit of understeer. As said above, it’s probably not good to explore the limit on the street anyway, so maybe that’s fine (and I think the recommendation was made to make the tail more planted on the street, particularly when Cup tires are not up to temp).

flyjets

I was under the impression the .2 sway bar was setup softer then the .1 due to the higher spring rates utilized in the .2.
But I haven't setup my .1 yet.

Ian

GrantG

That's possible, but it wouldn't affect any of the reasons for or methods of adjustment.

boxer-11

Hope it's OK to resurrect an old thread but I think it's the closest I found to post my question...

So in the 991.2 GT3 when I look at the sway bar ends, this is what I see on the wheel side of the fastener that holds goes through the adjustment holes. My question is -- how do you get the nut off the other end of this...it looks like there's no place to put a tool to stop the thread from just spinning in place if you turn the nut?!



Anyone know the trick?? I don't want to tear into it without knowing how to get it apart and back together again!

GrantG

You hold the bolt still with a Torx bit or wrench in the center of the unseen side of the bolt and a hex box wrench for the nut (also on the unseen side)

boxer-11

Aha! Thanks GrantG -- that was the clue I needed...much appreciated!

For anyone else as foxed as me that finds this thread later, the other implication is that this is all a lot easier to do if you remove the brake duct that's visible in the right side of the pic above swooping around the sway bar end. Two T20 Torx bolts hold that to the suspension member [actually one of mine was loose so I'm doubly glad I tried this adjustment now!]. Pop the duct off and you can see the end of the thread that you need to hold steady with the larger Torx bit...and you have room to get a tool in there to do that while you work the wrench/spanner on the nut. Easy when you know how

WP0

I determined that I needed to adjust my sway bars after driving on track. The rear would step out as I tracked out, so I was going to soften my rear sway bar in an attempt to help alleviate this problem that I've been regularly having.

Here is what I needed (once the car is safely lifted off the ground): T20 to remove the two bolts attached the brake duct; T30 to hold the bolt that goes through the sway bar; 16mm (or 5/8") wrench to turn the nut that holds the same bolt.

Below are photos of what I saw: (rear sway bar in middle hole)


visual from medial location, partially blocked by brake duct


visual from rear, with 2 T20 bolts holding brake duct


end of bolt holding sway bar, with brake duct removed, as viewed from medial location


final position for removal of bolt holding sway bar (T30 and 16mm)

WP0

Full disclaimer: the nut is apparently rusted to the sway bar, as I couldn't get it to budge, so I'll have the dealership change the setting when I get the tires changed (soon).

I suppose another option would be to get an impact wrench to loosen the nut. . .