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Interesting, I've always been curious how long mine would hold up under track use considering it isn't really designed to handle the loads created by using slicks. I was wondering if it fails whether we could convert to a solid link and align accordingly. I like it but I'm not up for having to repair or replace significant components on a regular basis. Thoughts?
Wonder if the dynamic engine mounts contribute to better laptimes.
If you unplug them, do they stay in the hardest setting (or the softest?)
I think a back-to-back with PADM enabled vs. disabled will be an interesting test. Assuming they're in a state closest to a solid mount when unplugged...
Interesting, I've always been curious how long mine would hold up under track use considering it isn't really designed to handle the loads created by using slicks. I was wondering if it fails whether we could convert to a solid link and align accordingly. I like it but I'm not up for having to repair or replace significant components on a regular basis. Thoughts?
I have about 8k track miles on slicks with no RWS failure. 18" cup car slicks.
Interesting, I've always been curious how long mine would hold up under track use considering it isn't really designed to handle the loads created by using slicks. I was wondering if it fails whether we could convert to a solid link and align accordingly. I like it but I'm not up for having to repair or replace significant components on a regular basis. Thoughts?
Higher suspension loading is expected with running high grip slick tires. We check alignment frequently and replace the wheel bearings proactively like we do on Cup cars. Other items we pay close attention to frequently are ball joints, tie rods, rear rubber bushings(or monoballs). Engine oil change each race weekend, PDK + diff oil every other sprint event.
Wonder if the dynamic engine mounts contribute to better laptimes.
The difference of how the dynamic engine mounts feel in corner entry with and without DSC is noticeable, and in quick esses. It seems like stock controller mapping goes soft in the middle of the g-table. So I think it makes a difference in the way that every little bit adds up.
Originally Posted by CRex
If you unplug them, do they stay in the hardest setting (or the softest?)
They default to full soft when unplugged. The magnetic fluid in the dynamic mounts works in the same way as the suspension dampers in Ferrari, Ford, and GM cars. They are full soft until electrical current is applied to align the magnetic particles in the fluid.
Using the DSC software we have the engine mounts mapped like we do the dampers. We labelled the dynamic engine control in the DSC software as "Driveline".
How did you get 18s over the suspension? I had to grind the head of the LCA bolt to make 19s work. BTW I have 10K on my car mostly with slicks.
This build is using 19” rear. 18” rear is not possible without Cup car uprights, and i believe changes to the inner subframe mounts as thr Cup car lower arms mount lower on the price inner aspect.
For the front, there are now a variety of brake caliper options for 18” front wheels. These obviously are the nicest! But even 997.2 GT3 RS calipers will bolt on and allow 18” front.
Tom, why such skinny front tires!
On my 991.2 GT3 i just fitted Cup car flares and will be using an 18x11 front with a Hoosier 315 front. But this is for an autocross car where i need as much front tire as i can get. 345 19” Hoosiers for on the narrow body 991.2 without issues, but rub on a 991.1. Not sure why put the 991.2 has a bit more clearance, when significantly lowered and with -2.8 rear camber.
I have about 8k track miles on slicks with no RWS failure. 18" cup car slicks.
AS you can see Ryan indicates he is running 18s on a car with RWS and I'd like to know how he did it. Brake clearance isn't the issue. I have the full AP setup and it works fine without coming close. Tom did actually raise my car by about three millimeters when they added the front caster pucks to allow me to run wider tires front and rear. Running 335s on the rear of my 991.1. Works great.
Interesting, so you can use the RWS with cup hubs and uprights. That's the answer I am trying to figure out.
FWIW, I tried the Panamera bolt and at least on my car the bolt didn't have full engagement with the nut. PCA tech deemed it less than safe.
I did have to grind my bolt head, probably because of my wheel barrels and the clearance is still minimal, as in you can cee a faint pattern on the barrel from the bolt as anything that gets on the bolt head like rubber traces onto the wheel. Its tight.
02-05-2020, 10:41 AM
