DS1.11
#1
DS1.11
I'm tracking my 991.1 with GiroDiscs and DS1.11 pads.
I was wondering when I should change my pads?
Run them all the way to the back plating...or change them earlier?
When I had my M3 with PFC08s, I would change them when the pad thickness was a little thinner than the back plating.
What do you guys do?
thanks in advance.
I was wondering when I should change my pads?
Run them all the way to the back plating...or change them earlier?
When I had my M3 with PFC08s, I would change them when the pad thickness was a little thinner than the back plating.
What do you guys do?
thanks in advance.
#2
Nordschleife Master
I used the Ferodo DS1.11 on my prior track toy, and plan to use them again with the GT3 next time I need to change pads. When the pads are as thick as the backing plate is about as close as I want to go before replacing them.
#3
Rennlist Member
I'm tracking my 991.1 with GiroDiscs and DS1.11 pads.
I was wondering when I should change my pads?
Run them all the way to the back plating...or change them earlier?
When I had my M3 with PFC08s, I would change them when the pad thickness was a little thinner than the back plating.
What do you guys do?
thanks in advance.
I was wondering when I should change my pads?
Run them all the way to the back plating...or change them earlier?
When I had my M3 with PFC08s, I would change them when the pad thickness was a little thinner than the back plating.
What do you guys do?
thanks in advance.
#4
#5
Rennlist Member
The last 20% seems to go much faster than the first 80%. I don't skimp on pads. It's not how fast you can go, it's how fast you can stop.
#6
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#8
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
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Very good pads - gentle on rotors, don't taper, and are not grabby - easy to modulate. The only drawback I've noticed so far is that after driving in the rain or having car parked for a while, they get super-slippery because of a layer of some kind of oxidation or corrosion on them. Also, I had one set with about 50% left crumble on me. That coincided with driving in the rain for 6 track days in a row over the course of 5 months (winter 2016-2017 in California), so maybe connected to their corrosion but maybe a coincidence.
#10
I drive mostly Barber Motorsports, which is I think a little easier on brakes than leguna seca (shorter straights).
#11
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by gan1hck
thanks for info....do you mean a single track day or a track weekend?
I drive mostly Barber Motorsports, which is I think a little easier on brakes than leguna seca (shorter straights).
I drive mostly Barber Motorsports, which is I think a little easier on brakes than leguna seca (shorter straights).
#12
thanks for info....I've probably been changing pads too early for fear of running out in the middle of a weekend...boiling fluid...and god knows how many other reasons.
chi
#13
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by gan1hck
joe,
thanks for info....I've probably been changing pads too early for fear of running out in the middle of a weekend...boiling fluid...and god knows how many other reasons.
chi
thanks for info....I've probably been changing pads too early for fear of running out in the middle of a weekend...boiling fluid...and god knows how many other reasons.
chi
#14
Rennlist Member
I measure the front at the end of each day and the rears before each event. The fronts wear ~1mm/ day at Sebring, the rears wear less than half that rate, and I replace them at 4mm which is the about backing plate thickness. Works out to roughly 8 track days for the fronts. They are very rotor friendly.