Light Weight Battery for .2 GT3???
#32
Rennlist Member
How does one "jump start" the car by pushing the button on the battery when one can not open the hood to access the battery when it's asleep? I guess this goes for any lithium battery with this feature. Do you make some type of remote access button that can be wired into the car's cabin? Otherwise, one would need to jump the car in order to even open the frunk to access the battery.
And what is the total weight of the RS-30 with the mounting hardware?
And what is the total weight of the RS-30 with the mounting hardware?
#33
Drifting
I cant speak for the other batteries, but with my Volphreak VP6, the battery simply cuts off (no longer feeds all the inactive electronics when the car is sitting) when the level gets down to a certain threshhold. Then, when you get in the car the next time, it has just enough to crank the engine and it re-activates automatically - no jumping needed.
EDIT: oh I see that remote button is a disconnect switch. I guess my question only applies to the Antigravity battery then. Seems like you wouldn't be able to open the hood of the car to press the button if the battery is dead/asleep. You would need to jump the car via the fuse box in order to open the hood. Sort of defeats the purpose of the battery's feature? Maybe the Antigravity guy can offer some insight...
#34
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How does one "jump start" the car by pushing the button on the battery when one can not open the hood to access the battery when it's asleep? I guess this goes for any lithium battery with this feature. Do you make some type of remote access button that can be wired into the car's cabin? Otherwise, one would need to jump the car in order to even open the frunk to access the battery.
And what is the total weight of the RS-30 with the mounting hardware?
And what is the total weight of the RS-30 with the mounting hardware?
Also you are absolutely correct... how the heck to you access the battery if the battery put itself to sleep in the first place and now you have no power to the car. I most cases when you turn the ignition on then off then on again you will get a re-set of the RS-30 battery.. but this is not always the case depending on some factors. So in the event you are locked out you still have to get to the battery in some cases if it won't re-set with and off and on of the key. But we make a product called the MICRO-START SPORT, and it's so small it can fit in your pocket...It's s about the size of two iphones on top of eachother... But that can also be used to energize the Fuse panel so you can power the car to open the trunk. So yes you still do have to access the RS-30 in some cases to hit the RE-START Button. But additionally we also make a Battery called the ATX-30 that actually can be set remotely by any 12v pulse... all our Powersports Batteries do that, and you can use the MICRO-START to RE-SET them or wait for our remote keyfob that we are developing and it will reset it. But that is only an 18Ah (real) battery... not as robust as the RS-30, but still quite viable if you want to lose even more wieght So those are my solutions to the issue you describe.
Total weight is unknown.... We already know the RS-30 is 11.5 lbs thats a given... but the CNC sample of the tray has not came in yet for me to weigh. I have a plastic 3d Printer moulded tray but that weight will not be the same as the aluminum. But I suspect 1.5 lbs. I am supposed to get the sample CNC tray by Friday. I will post on it then.
#35
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As for a group buy.... absolutely.
Here is where we are at with this....
We finished the design about 3 weeks ago and did the 3d Printing model and I'm actually using that in our RS now... I will post some pics tomorrow of it. But weare now at the CNC sample state, so if I get that at the end of the week and approve it we go into production which is 3-4 weeks I am told.. but I was also told the sample would be ready in a week and its been over 2 weeks. Frustrating for me also.
Second, totally on board for a group buy. I will post up what we can do after we have the hard numbers. I came onto Rennlist to be part of the community... I bought the RS (my car not the battery) just over a month ago and have been testing not only the battery but the Parasitic draws, the resting voltages with doors left open, key in the ignition and just seeing how something like the RS-30 and ATX-30 will do in a 991. So far I'm super impressed by Porshes Battery Management system for the car. When it all goes to sleep its barely drawing energy. Which is a key factor for any battery in the car.
By the way you guys should know that the PIWIS has the ability to select a Lithium Battery in the system. I am intentionally NOT making the change to the Lithium battery setting for the first 6 month so I can see if any anomoly pops up. But I spoke with the tech when I bought the car and he went over the entire process with me. And so far I have had absolutely no issues with not having done the Lithium selection in PIWIS. Voltage after driving are all within spec. Parasitic draws are exceptionally low. I will go into more details later on what the tech told me.
Here is where we are at with this....
We finished the design about 3 weeks ago and did the 3d Printing model and I'm actually using that in our RS now... I will post some pics tomorrow of it. But weare now at the CNC sample state, so if I get that at the end of the week and approve it we go into production which is 3-4 weeks I am told.. but I was also told the sample would be ready in a week and its been over 2 weeks. Frustrating for me also.
Second, totally on board for a group buy. I will post up what we can do after we have the hard numbers. I came onto Rennlist to be part of the community... I bought the RS (my car not the battery) just over a month ago and have been testing not only the battery but the Parasitic draws, the resting voltages with doors left open, key in the ignition and just seeing how something like the RS-30 and ATX-30 will do in a 991. So far I'm super impressed by Porshes Battery Management system for the car. When it all goes to sleep its barely drawing energy. Which is a key factor for any battery in the car.
By the way you guys should know that the PIWIS has the ability to select a Lithium Battery in the system. I am intentionally NOT making the change to the Lithium battery setting for the first 6 month so I can see if any anomoly pops up. But I spoke with the tech when I bought the car and he went over the entire process with me. And so far I have had absolutely no issues with not having done the Lithium selection in PIWIS. Voltage after driving are all within spec. Parasitic draws are exceptionally low. I will go into more details later on what the tech told me.
#37
Addict
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FYI- just drove my car and the on-board volt meter in the dash said 14.7V while driving, so this seemed to be easily compatible with a Lithium battery.
But then I looked when idling and it was only 13.8V. Think this is too low for Li?
But then I looked when idling and it was only 13.8V. Think this is too low for Li?
#38
Race Director
I have had a lithium battery in mine since day 1 and my voltage is always 14.7 under all conditions. I was actually concerned why it runs so high in voltage
#39
Rennlist Member
I think you would be fine GrantG - the only way the low voltage at idle would matter is if you never actually drove the car, right? Driving would easily charge the battery, and its unlikely you would be sitting at idle long enough to for the low charge rate to matter.
#40
I'm in for a group buy at 13lbs with the bracket/mount. I know there are lighter options, but this looks like a much more affordable option with easier install. I don't have time or the smarts to run wires all over the place and through firewalls. :P
#41
I've been running a Voltphreaks since 2008. It's been great for my race car, but for street I'd prefer something with more margin while maintaining electronic management and a low voltage cutoff. I'm thinking 30 Ah might be slight overkill for the GT3 in my area (Norcal rarely gets very cold) but count me as very interested for the group buy.
#42
.
#43
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There is absolutely no issues whatsoever for a Lithium Battery.... A cars charging system is NOT charging at full tilt all the time. It will only go into high charging voltage at certain times. So your charging voltages, and your voltage reading in the Car will generally fluctuate from 13.5 to 14.8.... this has NO adverse effects on the Lithium battery, that is actually its operating range.... it just depends on the loads on the system and other factors of how the Car's system will start to provide a higher voltage. Keep in mind your cars Alternator POWERs all the accessories and electronics.... the battery (in general), does nothing after its started but just stabilizes the system a little, gets recharged and will supply power for the ignition on the start attempts as well as stationary power.
But to make that is a little more clear ALL Vehicles including Cars, Motorcycles, Powersports Vehicles, Boats and many Planes that are using the 12v system all have a standardized charging system. This was standardized way back in the day so they could all use a similar standardized system and charge lead/acid batteries in a standardized format. So if you use a 12v Lead Acid battery in your Car it would also work and charge fine in your car, boat, motorcycle and so on. But a Car system is a bit more advanced than a Motorcycles, but the same standard is used. So it is the same with Lithium Batteries in the Cars.. the operate and charge in the same range as Lead/Acid.... but they actually have a little higher resting/nominal voltage being they will usually sit at 13.2v rather than 12.8v like a lead acid battery, but again no issue at all.
But the key with Lithium is they DO NOT like to be charged above 15v but that will rarely if ever happen except in some cars... we noticed some Suburus would charge above 15v.... that was the only anomaly we encountered and we don't know why it was just on some cars.
Last as a little cool factoid.... under acceleration in normal cars the Alternator would usually kick in as the motor and rpms spin up.. which is fine in a normal vehicles... but from what the Porsche Tech told me... the GT3s actually will NOT kick on the Alternator on when accelerating, but rather during deceleration... that was to supposedly lessen the drag. Now that pretty cool to think they did that to get the least load on their cars when accelerating...
#45
There is absolutely no issues whatsoever for a Lithium Battery.... A cars charging system is NOT charging at full tilt all the time. It will only go into high charging voltage at certain times. So your charging voltages, and your voltage reading in the Car will generally fluctuate from 13.5 to 14.8.... this has NO adverse effects on the Lithium battery, that is actually its operating range.... it just depends on the loads on the system and other factors of how the Car's system will start to provide a higher voltage. Keep in mind your cars Alternator POWERs all the accessories and electronics.... the battery (in general), does nothing after its started but just stabilizes the system a little, gets recharged and will supply power for the ignition on the start attempts as well as stationary power.
But to make that is a little more clear ALL Vehicles including Cars, Motorcycles, Powersports Vehicles, Boats and many Planes that are using the 12v system all have a standardized charging system. This was standardized way back in the day so they could all use a similar standardized system and charge lead/acid batteries in a standardized format. So if you use a 12v Lead Acid battery in your Car it would also work and charge fine in your car, boat, motorcycle and so on. But a Car system is a bit more advanced than a Motorcycles, but the same standard is used. So it is the same with Lithium Batteries in the Cars.. the operate and charge in the same range as Lead/Acid.... but they actually have a little higher resting/nominal voltage being they will usually sit at 13.2v rather than 12.8v like a lead acid battery, but again no issue at all.
But the key with Lithium is they DO NOT like to be charged above 15v but that will rarely if ever happen except in some cars... we noticed some Suburus would charge above 15v.... that was the only anomaly we encountered and we don't know why it was just on some cars.
Last as a little cool factoid.... under acceleration in normal cars the Alternator would usually kick in as the motor and rpms spin up.. which is fine in a normal vehicles... but from what the Porsche Tech told me... the GT3s actually will NOT kick on the Alternator on when accelerating, but rather during deceleration... that was to supposedly lessen the drag. Now that pretty cool to think they did that to get the least load on their cars when accelerating...
But to make that is a little more clear ALL Vehicles including Cars, Motorcycles, Powersports Vehicles, Boats and many Planes that are using the 12v system all have a standardized charging system. This was standardized way back in the day so they could all use a similar standardized system and charge lead/acid batteries in a standardized format. So if you use a 12v Lead Acid battery in your Car it would also work and charge fine in your car, boat, motorcycle and so on. But a Car system is a bit more advanced than a Motorcycles, but the same standard is used. So it is the same with Lithium Batteries in the Cars.. the operate and charge in the same range as Lead/Acid.... but they actually have a little higher resting/nominal voltage being they will usually sit at 13.2v rather than 12.8v like a lead acid battery, but again no issue at all.
But the key with Lithium is they DO NOT like to be charged above 15v but that will rarely if ever happen except in some cars... we noticed some Suburus would charge above 15v.... that was the only anomaly we encountered and we don't know why it was just on some cars.
Last as a little cool factoid.... under acceleration in normal cars the Alternator would usually kick in as the motor and rpms spin up.. which is fine in a normal vehicles... but from what the Porsche Tech told me... the GT3s actually will NOT kick on the Alternator on when accelerating, but rather during deceleration... that was to supposedly lessen the drag. Now that pretty cool to think they did that to get the least load on their cars when accelerating...
Also, what does configuring the Porsche to “lithium battery mode” via PIWIS do exactly to how charging or accessory drain with motor off is handled?