^ i dont know. i am sure the engineers have their reason

 

Because an F1 wheel nut can only be used once, and they are hella expensive, even for F1 teams. And then speak nothing of the wheel gun needed to drive and spin the nuts into the socket.

 

Ah!! Good to know!! Sounds like I'm better off just ensuring I've got a helper around when I do it. Thanks for that. I hadn't thought of it.

Because I don't have servants to do it for me?? It might be a hassle, but it's still less a hassle than having to book an appointment and get to a dealer just to have my wheels swapped around.

Beat me to it. I looked into this a while back out of curiosity and you're right. The ones used in racing are expensive and disposable and not nearly as pretty. The ones on the street cars can be thought of as a tribute to the racing ones rather than having ANY of the advantages they're actually meant to provide. The fact that they're standard on the track-focused cars blows my mind.

 

 

I saw some instructions somewhere about a right and wrong way to do this. The right way wasn't obvious. You don't just hook the edge of the center cap with the tip of the tool. You actually get the tool right behind it somehow.

I'm sure someone that's actually done it can clarify or post a pic or something. Or maybe you already know this and it's still a pain. I have no first hand experience.

 

You're right, if I had known I could force the lock nut out, it would have saved me probably 30 to 45 minutes time and a lot of backbreak torquing and re-torquing

 

For removing the centercap, A small flat head screw driver is much easier than the little tool. I tried both last night. The little tool doesnt quite go deep enough. It goes just deep enough to almost split the centercap in half. Which would suck.

 

You also need to replace all the CL nuts every 10000km of track usage.

 

Yup I swapped my center caps out with chrome P crest caps from suncoast ($240 +ship) now all crinked up , Thanks for sdriver tip

 

you all are using that tool wrong.

when you go to insert it, make sure its seated deep behind the plastic, and not the foil......do it a few times, and you'll feel the difference. The tool is super easy, just imagine yourself trying to get that lever deeper than it should, and you'll end up behind the cap and the the foil.

 

haha, no way!.....I tell myself I leave the grease on them since they match the forgelines better now.

In all seriousness, I keep two sockets, one on a dedicated torque wrench, and one on a breaker, and I found its faster to tighten to spec/loosen/re-tighten in this method as opposed to flipping the head of the torque wrench per the wrench manual. Also, I have a derlin tool that is for the center lock itself.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Center-Lock...1UEgKQ&vxp=mtr

Oh, and get the derlin wheel alligner that the RL member makes, its a life saver!

 

 

Well your tool must be longer than mine, because no amount of jamming, cussing or glove-changing will get my tool in far enough...

 

Unless I'm forgetful, doesn't the steering column lock prevent the wheels from turning side to side? Mooty encouraged me dress up my RS with BBS wheels and I don't recall having any issues with this........

 

How many do I need for the front on the 991.2 GT3? I'm going to run 19's and after alignment the rims I'm using will hit the OEM lower control arm bolts. I like the idea of replacing the bolts instead of shaving them.