Setup numbers RS
04-26-2016, 10:22 PM
#61
NJMSP
I spent two sunny warm days at NJ Motorsports Park (Lightning) with my RS. This was a real getting to know the car experience.
I started off conservatively, with 1:19s and worked down to 1:14.8 While not a record shattering time, I felt pretty good about it. I am sure there are at least few more seconds to be had, I was on stock tires and suspension. Only mods were RE10 pads, AP Front rotors and Motul fluid.
The car just revs and revs. What fun. And it brakes and turns in very very well considering the stock setup.
Two things I didn't like: It got a little squirmy under hard braking at high speeds (end of front straight), and two times when in PDK Sport, it didn't upshift -- per the prior posts, I think my low fuel light was on both times. Will continue to monitor PDK-Sport Mode.
Any insight on the squirmy feel under hard braking? More aero in rear? Different front/rear pads (had this problem at one point on 996 turbo until I increased pad bite in rear), alignment?
I also took some tire temps, but am traveling so it will have to wait for the weekend for me to get back to my notes and post, but the outsides were definitely hotter than the middles and insides.
I started off conservatively, with 1:19s and worked down to 1:14.8 While not a record shattering time, I felt pretty good about it. I am sure there are at least few more seconds to be had, I was on stock tires and suspension. Only mods were RE10 pads, AP Front rotors and Motul fluid.
The car just revs and revs. What fun. And it brakes and turns in very very well considering the stock setup.
Two things I didn't like: It got a little squirmy under hard braking at high speeds (end of front straight), and two times when in PDK Sport, it didn't upshift -- per the prior posts, I think my low fuel light was on both times. Will continue to monitor PDK-Sport Mode.
Any insight on the squirmy feel under hard braking? More aero in rear? Different front/rear pads (had this problem at one point on 996 turbo until I increased pad bite in rear), alignment?
I also took some tire temps, but am traveling so it will have to wait for the weekend for me to get back to my notes and post, but the outsides were definitely hotter than the middles and insides.
04-26-2016, 10:45 PM
#62
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks!
You have a little toe out front?
Me as well. So I've been told that 2 turns lowering the car in front creates only a little bit of toe out from zero to.
But the car became super unstable. Not the *** wagging but searching on front axle. I had to stay 3' away from the wall braking into T1 at Sebring.
Maybe it just needs no toe, it was the first time and only change to toe out that created this.
Same pads toe in, all stable..
Not sure if I'm helping here...
You have a little toe out front?
Me as well. So I've been told that 2 turns lowering the car in front creates only a little bit of toe out from zero to.
But the car became super unstable. Not the *** wagging but searching on front axle. I had to stay 3' away from the wall braking into T1 at Sebring.
Maybe it just needs no toe, it was the first time and only change to toe out that created this.
Same pads toe in, all stable..
Not sure if I'm helping here...
04-26-2016, 11:25 PM
#63
Burning Brakes
Joe, thanks for posting. We're 3 for 3 on cars with the upshift problem -- that's good news as it sounds quite consistent. After I return from COTA I'll take the car into service and see what they can see from codes, etc.
I concur with Peter that it could be toe/alignment, as I experienced zero squirminess threshold braking from 140mph. I haven't even looked at rear wing setting yet, so not sure what that is set to stock. That likely won't affect the squirminess under heavy braking though, unless it's happening during initial bite at high speed (when aero matters).
I concur with Peter that it could be toe/alignment, as I experienced zero squirminess threshold braking from 140mph. I haven't even looked at rear wing setting yet, so not sure what that is set to stock. That likely won't affect the squirminess under heavy braking though, unless it's happening during initial bite at high speed (when aero matters).
04-26-2016, 11:27 PM
#64
Burning Brakes
I'll raise another topic -- how many heat cycles are folks getting out of the MPSC2 before losing tread or significant grip. I had about 12 on my first set of tires before swapping to a fresh set heading to 3 days at COTA. The old tires look to still have a good amount of tire left -- not at wear bars yet. Camber adjustments stopped the excessive shoulder wear.
04-26-2016, 11:30 PM
#65
Burning Brakes
Last topic I'll toss out there...suspension.
For a street car on street tires, it's pretty exceptional stock. Only the mclaren I owned felt even sharper, but there's some really whiz bang stuff happening on the macs. I will say at 2 different tracks I am having some floatiness especially when changing directions at high speed. It isn't a huge issue, but takes longer than I would like to settle the car. My thought is to consider removing the rubber from the suspension, as regardless what springs are on the car it will always have that delay/float with rubber bushings. I've not done that mod myself on a street car before (obviously have on race cars). For those that have, does this typically affect ride quality on the road VERY significantly? I find the RS to be plenty soft for street use, and if removing the rubber only has a say 10-20% add in brittleness, I think I may give it a shot.
Ok, sorry for long post
For a street car on street tires, it's pretty exceptional stock. Only the mclaren I owned felt even sharper, but there's some really whiz bang stuff happening on the macs. I will say at 2 different tracks I am having some floatiness especially when changing directions at high speed. It isn't a huge issue, but takes longer than I would like to settle the car. My thought is to consider removing the rubber from the suspension, as regardless what springs are on the car it will always have that delay/float with rubber bushings. I've not done that mod myself on a street car before (obviously have on race cars). For those that have, does this typically affect ride quality on the road VERY significantly? I find the RS to be plenty soft for street use, and if removing the rubber only has a say 10-20% add in brittleness, I think I may give it a shot.
Ok, sorry for long post
04-27-2016, 06:04 PM
#66
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First time on track (Roebling) and I did about ten heat cycles. The left rear is corded in places in the outside shoulder. Never seen this in such a small amount of time. Also got a nail in it last week so the tire is now done.
Do I need more camber?
Do I need more camber?
04-27-2016, 06:18 PM
#67
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Last topic I'll toss out there...suspension.
For a street car on street tires, it's pretty exceptional stock. Only the mclaren I owned felt even sharper, but there's some really whiz bang stuff happening on the macs. I will say at 2 different tracks I am having some floatiness especially when changing directions at high speed. It isn't a huge issue, but takes longer than I would like to settle the car. My thought is to consider removing the rubber from the suspension, as regardless what springs are on the car it will always have that delay/float with rubber bushings. I've not done that mod myself on a street car before (obviously have on race cars). For those that have, does this typically affect ride quality on the road VERY significantly? I find the RS to be plenty soft for street use, and if removing the rubber only has a say 10-20% add in brittleness, I think I may give it a shot.
Ok, sorry for long post
For a street car on street tires, it's pretty exceptional stock. Only the mclaren I owned felt even sharper, but there's some really whiz bang stuff happening on the macs. I will say at 2 different tracks I am having some floatiness especially when changing directions at high speed. It isn't a huge issue, but takes longer than I would like to settle the car. My thought is to consider removing the rubber from the suspension, as regardless what springs are on the car it will always have that delay/float with rubber bushings. I've not done that mod myself on a street car before (obviously have on race cars). For those that have, does this typically affect ride quality on the road VERY significantly? I find the RS to be plenty soft for street use, and if removing the rubber only has a say 10-20% add in brittleness, I think I may give it a shot.
Ok, sorry for long post
But I like my cars softer than most specially at Sebring
04-27-2016, 09:32 PM
#68
Burning Brakes
Good feedback. I still have both bars in the middle. Will play with it this weekend. Most have said rear full stiff is best
04-28-2016, 10:46 AM
#69
Rennlist Member
would love if you could open a thread / post some pics and impressions. 
04-30-2016, 09:50 AM
#73
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Originally Posted by Hoopumpers
I'll raise another topic -- how many heat cycles are folks getting out of the MPSC2 before losing tread or significant grip. I had about 12 on my first set of tires before swapping to a fresh set heading to 3 days at COTA. The old tires look to still have a good amount of tire left -- not at wear bars yet. Camber adjustments stopped the excessive shoulder wear.
04-30-2016, 09:51 AM
#74
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Originally Posted by Hoopumpers
Joe, thanks for posting. We're 3 for 3 on cars with the upshift problem -- that's good news as it sounds quite consistent. After I return from COTA I'll take the car into service and see what they can see from codes, etc.
I concur with Peter that it could be toe/alignment, as I experienced zero squirminess threshold braking from 140mph. I haven't even looked at rear wing setting yet, so not sure what that is set to stock. That likely won't affect the squirminess under heavy braking though, unless it's happening during initial bite at high speed (when aero matters).
I concur with Peter that it could be toe/alignment, as I experienced zero squirminess threshold braking from 140mph. I haven't even looked at rear wing setting yet, so not sure what that is set to stock. That likely won't affect the squirminess under heavy braking though, unless it's happening during initial bite at high speed (when aero matters).
04-30-2016, 01:51 PM
#75
Burning Brakes
-2.8 camber all around is perfect for me. Lapping 2:25.0 at COTA on street tires. Very even wear. Car feels great except for floatiness when unsettled or fast transitions.