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Below are couple of pics of my front rotors. I'm thinking they're just about done. Do you guys agree?
More general question is what our options for rotors are. Besides OEM, and AP Racing for the front, any other options? And what's the best source for OEM?
Is the AP rotor available for the rear? And what's the best source for the Ferodo pads? I looked at the Apex website and couldn't find them there.
Hi,
We are waiting for the rear AP Racing discs to arrive, and we're being told that they'll be here very soon (it is a new product). I will update everyone as soon as they hit our warehouse. We quickly sold out of our first batch of front hats, and the second batch is nearing completion. We should be able to ship the front discs out in roughly a week from today.
__________________
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs Ferodo Racing Brake Pads Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030 jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
@Manifold - the rotors seem to have decent amount of life left in them, because the cracks are not real cracks but rather deep heat-checks. They do not seem to be going deep enough to make rotor unsafe. In fact, I had similar checking on the first set of rotors, but when I switched to more aggressive pads, the pads soon scrubbed the layer of metal deep enough for these checks to pretty much disappear, while rotors were still beyond minimum thickness.
Your rotors are thicker than minimal because the dimples (the fake holes) are still pretty deep, and they disappear when rotors are below minimal thickness.
Having said that, please use your own judgment and do not hold me responsible. I am not known for being responsible - my last track day I set personal best with one backing plate gently touching a rotor...
It's peculiar - with gentle pads stock rotors seem to heat-check a lot, and with aggressive pads, metal is eaten away quickly enough that cracks have no chance to start forming. My current set or rotors has mirror finish, but only 1/2 of thickness left. I'm switching to less aggressive pad (PFC 11 first and then Ferodos) and to AP Racing rotors once current setup is done.
@Manifold - the rotors seem to have decent amount of life left in them, because the cracks are not real cracks but rather deep heat-checks. They do not seem to be going deep enough to make rotor unsafe. In fact, I had similar checking on the first set of rotors, but when I switched to more aggressive pads, the pads soon scrubbed the layer of metal deep enough for these checks to pretty much disappear, while rotors were still beyond minimum thickness.
Your rotors are thicker than minimal because the dimples (the fake holes) are still pretty deep, and they disappear when rotors are below minimal thickness.
Having said that, please use your own judgment and do not hold me responsible. I am not known for being responsible - my last track day I set personal best with one backing plate gently touching a rotor...
It's peculiar - with gentle pads stock rotors seem to heat-check a lot, and with aggressive pads, metal is eaten away quickly enough that cracks have no chance to start forming. My current set or rotors has mirror finish, but only 1/2 of thickness left. I'm switching to less aggressive pad (PFC 11 first and then Ferodos) and to AP Racing rotors once current setup is done.
Originally Posted by paver
Manifold, you probably already know this but it would be smart to look at them after every session if you keep using them.
Rule of thumb I've used is that the rotors are done when cracks connect two holes or extend to the edge of the rotor. I'm not there yet, but getting close. With rotor fracture being a sudden failure with bad consequences - and my being a structural engineer trained to be averse to cracks - I'm leaning towards doing one more day with the current rotors (agreed on checking after every session), then replacing the rotors before my next event, which will be 3 days and far from home.
I went ahead and ordered the AP front rotors and Ferodo pads.
Rule of thumb I've used is that the rotors are done when cracks connect two holes or extend to the edge of the rotor. I'm not there yet, but getting close. With rotor fracture being a sudden failure with bad consequences - and my being a structural engineer trained to be averse to cracks - I'm leaning towards doing one more day with the current rotors (agreed on checking after every session), then replacing the rotors before my next event, which will be 3 days and far from home.
I went ahead and ordered the AP front rotors and Ferodo pads.
Yep, I'd replace them before a 3-day event too. Not worth the risk of losing track time, and worrying about rotors can take away from driving enjoyment.
Below are couple of pics of my front rotors. I'm thinking they're just about done. Do you guys agree?
More general question is what our options for rotors are. Besides OEM, and AP Racing for the front, any other options? And what's the best source for OEM?
I think they are like new?
Cracks going to the edge or connecting holes are worry some but I found that as long as the rotor is not cracked all the way through its fine.
Just because of that I don't like rotors with holes in them, even though the rear drilled rotors lasted forever.
OEM has been decent buy with the harder braking and heavier faster 991's I am looking for solid rotors and brake pads.
Clarke at Apex is good people and he knows what works and what doesn't
06-09-2015, 10:39 AM
Rotors
