Brake overheating
#1
Brake overheating
Hello all
Does any know is there any upgrade racing brake cooling system for 991.1 GT3 ?
I am running 19" BBS wheels with Yokohama A005 slicks and my brake pads ( Pagid RSL1 and Pagid RST1) overheated after two days racing ( total 30 laps in 2 mins track , for honestly , the brake pad change the color after 3~5 laps )
so I am wondering if anyone have experience for this issue.
Thank you.
Does any know is there any upgrade racing brake cooling system for 991.1 GT3 ?
I am running 19" BBS wheels with Yokohama A005 slicks and my brake pads ( Pagid RSL1 and Pagid RST1) overheated after two days racing ( total 30 laps in 2 mins track , for honestly , the brake pad change the color after 3~5 laps )
so I am wondering if anyone have experience for this issue.
Thank you.
Last edited by Nelsontw001; 06-22-2019 at 09:38 AM.
#2
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What brake fluid?
#3
Wait what? What do you mean they change color? And when you say they overheat is your pedal spongey feeling? Maybe it's your brake fluid that needs changing. I'm running PFC brake fluid and track around 30-36degress Celsius without issues.
On another note, how's the RWS with slicks?
On another note, how's the RWS with slicks?
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CX_GT3 (09-15-2021)
#6
Wait what? What do you mean they change color? And when you say they overheat is your pedal spongey feeling? Maybe it's your brake fluid that needs changing. I'm running PFC brake fluid and track around 30-36degress Celsius without issues.
On another note, how's the RWS with slicks?
On another note, how's the RWS with slicks?
I mean the painting on the pads went off and the pads looks burned , the pedal also feeling harder than before.
I am sure my fluid is good condition because I change my fluid before every racing and bleed after racing.
When I running semi slick ( like CUP2 ) , I don't have any overheating issue, The lap time for CUP2 is around 1:53 but I can do 1:48 for slicks , so I assume slicks make brake system overheat because the late and harder brake.
For my experience , The RWS is fine with slicks , I have ran 3 sets of slicks so far ( around 130 laps )
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#8
Hello Reidar94
I mean the painting on the pads went off and the pads looks burned , the pedal also feeling harder than before.
I am sure my fluid is good condition because I change my fluid before every racing and bleed after racing.
When I running semi slick ( like CUP2 ) , I don't have any overheating issue, The lap time for CUP2 is around 1:53 but I can do 1:48 for slicks , so I assume slicks make brake system overheat because the late and harder brake.
For my experience , The RWS is fine with slicks , I have ran 3 sets of slicks so far ( around 130 laps )
I mean the painting on the pads went off and the pads looks burned , the pedal also feeling harder than before.
I am sure my fluid is good condition because I change my fluid before every racing and bleed after racing.
When I running semi slick ( like CUP2 ) , I don't have any overheating issue, The lap time for CUP2 is around 1:53 but I can do 1:48 for slicks , so I assume slicks make brake system overheat because the late and harder brake.
For my experience , The RWS is fine with slicks , I have ran 3 sets of slicks so far ( around 130 laps )
You could always try some PFC discs and pads, they're awesome and Porsche uses them on their race cars.
#9
Btw , not sure if this help , but this is my track video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRBw...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRBw...ature=youtu.be
#10
Rennlist Member
Two things to consider.
1. If the pads weren’t bedded in properly they will go away quickly.
2. All my race cars had brake bias adjustment capability. Doubt GT3 (mine doesn’t ) comes with one and you may simply have too much front brake causing your issue. You can look at playing with softer rear pads to balance the brakes and take some stress of the fronts.
3. Your padgid distributor is usually a good source of info.
1. If the pads weren’t bedded in properly they will go away quickly.
2. All my race cars had brake bias adjustment capability. Doubt GT3 (mine doesn’t ) comes with one and you may simply have too much front brake causing your issue. You can look at playing with softer rear pads to balance the brakes and take some stress of the fronts.
3. Your padgid distributor is usually a good source of info.
#11
Race Director
This is what brake pads do...Used Pagid yellows for a long time... they do not stay yellow!!!
If your brake pedal hit soft, go flush brake fluid and change to so like Motul RB660 or Castro's SRF or Endless.
If your brake pedal hit soft, go flush brake fluid and change to so like Motul RB660 or Castro's SRF or Endless.
#13
If it's just the paint coming off and the pedal is still hard and the car stops then it's probably just the paint that can't stand the constant heat and begin to chip and falls off. When the pedal is mushy and car barely stops, then there's an issue.
You could always try some PFC discs and pads, they're awesome and Porsche uses them on their race cars.
You could always try some PFC discs and pads, they're awesome and Porsche uses them on their race cars.
Yes , the brake still hard , but what I mean is I have feel the brake is harder than before , which means I need push harder , this never happen when I using semi slick tire. some of my friend said the pads is carbonizing.
I will try PFC pads next time.
Two things to consider.
1. If the pads weren’t bedded in properly they will go away quickly.
2. All my race cars had brake bias adjustment capability. Doubt GT3 (mine doesn’t ) comes with one and you may simply have too much front brake causing your issue. You can look at playing with softer rear pads to balance the brakes and take some stress of the fronts.
3. Your padgid distributor is usually a good source of info.
1. If the pads weren’t bedded in properly they will go away quickly.
2. All my race cars had brake bias adjustment capability. Doubt GT3 (mine doesn’t ) comes with one and you may simply have too much front brake causing your issue. You can look at playing with softer rear pads to balance the brakes and take some stress of the fronts.
3. Your padgid distributor is usually a good source of info.
Great idea , for honestly , I am using PCCB program for my iron brake , PCCB brake program have strong brake feeling than iron brake program , this is might cost overheating issue.
The Pagid distributor doesn't help much , just keep told me this is overheat issue =(
The pedal doesn't hit soft but harder , and the brake feeling have been changed.
For example , when I using new brake pads , I can control the brake as 10% 20% 30% 40% ~100% but when the brake pads getting harder , I can only control as 10% 30% 50% ~ 100% .
Thank you , do you have any disc recommend ?
#14
Yes, he already did, Surface Transforms carbon Ceramic Disks. But you don't have any problem. Soft pedal is a problem not hard pedal. Paint is irrelevant on pads.
Glad that you are using the car well enough to have this questions.
Glad that you are using the car well enough to have this questions.
#15
ouch! the disc looks very expensive ! I used to run PCCB with stock wheels but I am only using iron disc with 19" wheels for track , as everyone said , we can run PCCB for track but just cost too much.