When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks Reidar94
Yes , the brake still hard , but what I mean is I have feel the brake is harder than before , which means I need push harder , this never happen when I using semi slick tire. some of my friend said the pads is carbonizing.
I will try PFC pads next time.
Thanks Ohinner
Great idea , for honestly , I am using PCCB program for my iron brake , PCCB brake program have strong brake feeling than iron brake program , this is might cost overheating issue.
The Pagid distributor doesn't help much , just keep told me this is overheat issue =(
Thank you Mdrums
The pedal doesn't hit soft but harder , and the brake feeling have been changed.
For example , when I using new brake pads , I can control the brake as 10% 20% 30% 40% ~100% but when the brake pads getting harder , I can only control as 10% 30% 50% ~ 100% .
Thank you , do you have any disc recommend ?
Did you bed in the pads and rotors?...or just put them on and hit the track? These need to be bedded in together to transfer pad material to the rotor. Street driving on race pads will only take off the pad material transfer. Its best to swap back to street pads for the track. But you will have to re-bed in the race pads each time.
As far as rotors go...if you want to stay with steel...check out GiroDisc and AP Racing. If you track a lot each year and want a carbon disc for cooler brakes and long lasting then check out the ST Rotors TrackCar mentioned in a post above. You will have to weight out the costs based on your financial budget for this hobby.
From your description it does sound like you are getting the pads above optimal operating temps. looking at the Pagid website their plots go out to about 650 C. Also if you have the RSL1 in front and the RST in rear you have a little higher mu in the rear so already shifting the bias a little from front to rear. Perhaps consider Ferodo pads? They advertise the temp range for DS1.11 up to 750 C and the DS3.12 up to 850 C. I have used DS1.11 with no issues (not on slicks though). Have not tried the DS3.12 but might be worth trying in your case.
That racetrack layout looks very brakes intensive, that's one factor.
Secondly, Slicks elevate the brakes work, brakes work harder.
Faster drivers put more stress on brakes than typical Lapping Day drivers.
I used Motul RBF 660 as a test a few years back, and Endless, and PFC fluids, and I always go back to Castrol SRF. Give it a try, 1 bottle is enough to flush and replace the system.
I overheated my front brakes at a local track (Palm Beach), despite of running on PCCB, the numerous cooling ducts in the 991.2 GT3 RS, just a hot day on very sticky tires (Hoosier R7).
The PFC braking system (steel rotors) is a great upgrade. Porsche OEM brakes are amazing, but at the top level of driving skills and with true race tires, the brakes are not sufficient, and some minor changes are needed.
The advice on Surface Transform rotors is Gold. I have witnessed a few cars running them and they are proving long lasting.
...now, tell us more about that steering wheel, I want one!
Did you bed in the pads and rotors?...or just put them on and hit the track? These need to be bedded in together to transfer pad material to the rotor. Street driving on race pads will only take off the pad material transfer. Its best to swap back to street pads for the track. But you will have to re-bed in the race pads each time.
As far as rotors go...if you want to stay with steel...check out GiroDisc and AP Racing. If you track a lot each year and want a carbon disc for cooler brakes and long lasting then check out the ST Rotors TrackCar mentioned in a post above. You will have to weight out the costs based on your financial budget for this hobby.
Hello Mdrums
No , I didn't bed the pads and rotor , I just put them on and hit the track. do I still need to bed the pads and rotor for track ? because I don't drive this car in street .
For the brake system , the PCCB doesn't fit my BBS 19 wheels , not sure if the SP fit my car or not but I will check it. really concern about the life time for Ceramic disc in track , especially in the around 25mins race.
From your description it does sound like you are getting the pads above optimal operating temps. looking at the Pagid website their plots go out to about 650 C. Also if you have the RSL1 in front and the RST in rear you have a little higher mu in the rear so already shifting the bias a little from front to rear. Perhaps consider Ferodo pads? They advertise the temp range for DS1.11 up to 750 C and the DS3.12 up to 850 C. I have used DS1.11 with no issues (not on slicks though). Have not tried the DS3.12 but might be worth trying in your case.
Thank you Zedcat
The Pagid website show RST1 go up to 700C , and Ferodo 11.1 go up to 750C , I was think not very different so didn't choose it. because I use the pagid pads all the time.
But just found the new Ferodo DS3.12 go up to 850C ! I am going to order it , Thank you for the information !
Have you tried running Trofeo R? Not as good as a slick ofc but a bit better than cup 2. Trofeo Rs with PFC discs and pads is excellent.
Also porsche advise against running slicks on normal GT3s due to the stress it puts on the car compared to semi slicks, and especially with the RWS. But if that's no concern to you then keep running slicks and get a full AP Racing system with new calipers (should clear 19", but not sure) they'll handle the slicks.
That racetrack layout looks very brakes intensive, that's one factor.
Secondly, Slicks elevate the brakes work, brakes work harder.
Faster drivers put more stress on brakes than typical Lapping Day drivers.
I used Motul RBF 660 as a test a few years back, and Endless, and PFC fluids, and I always go back to Castrol SRF. Give it a try, 1 bottle is enough to flush and replace the system.
I overheated my front brakes at a local track (Palm Beach), despite of running on PCCB, the numerous cooling ducts in the 991.2 GT3 RS, just a hot day on very sticky tires (Hoosier R7).
The PFC braking system (steel rotors) is a great upgrade. Porsche OEM brakes are amazing, but at the top level of driving skills and with true race tires, the brakes are not sufficient, and some minor changes are needed.
The advice on Surface Transform rotors is Gold. I have witnessed a few cars running them and they are proving long lasting.
...now, tell us more about that steering wheel, I want one!
Thank you A/S
I am not sure if change the brake oil will make any help because I didn't boil my brake oil. but I will give a try , SRF not not easy to find in my country so I might try Brembo HTC 64T.
How's your PCCB now ? still working after overheated?
I bought my aftermarket disc from local shop , they are using very hard material for the disc , I was concern the overheat issue because the hard disc , but mot of brake shop told me the temp for hard or soft disc will not make temp very different , only brake performance.
That's why I would like to upgrade my brake cooling system , change the pads/disc/brake oil is worth to try but I might get same issue if lap time get faster or longer race.
I am thinking about Brake Duct Tube , I have put this kind of brake cooling system on my E92 M3 and it works awesome , but never see any shop selling this kind of kit for 991 GT3 .
My steering wheels GT3 CUP steering wheel, the Shift paddle and bottom is KMP steering wheel system.
That racetrack layout looks very brakes intensive, that's one factor.
Secondly, Slicks elevate the brakes work, brakes work harder.
Faster drivers put more stress on brakes than typical Lapping Day drivers.
I used Motul RBF 660 as a test a few years back, and Endless, and PFC fluids, and I always go back to Castrol SRF. Give it a try, 1 bottle is enough to flush and replace the system.
I overheated my front brakes at a local track (Palm Beach), despite of running on PCCB, the numerous cooling ducts in the 991.2 GT3 RS, just a hot day on very sticky tires (Hoosier R7).
The PFC braking system (steel rotors) is a great upgrade. Porsche OEM brakes are amazing, but at the top level of driving skills and with true race tires, the brakes are not sufficient, and some minor changes are needed.
The advice on Surface Transform rotors is Gold. I have witnessed a few cars running them and they are proving long lasting.
...now, tell us more about that steering wheel, I want one!
Thank you A/S
I am not sure if change the brake oil will make any help because I didn't boil my brake oil. but I will give a try , SRF not not easy to find in my country so I might try Brembo HTC 64T.
How's your PCCB now ? still working after overheated?
I bought my aftermarket disc from local shop , they are using very hard material for the disc , I was concern the overheat issue because the hard disc , but mot of brake shop told me the temp for hard or soft disc will not make temp very different , only brake performance.
That's why I would like to upgrade my brake cooling system , change the pads/disc/brake oil is worth to try but I might get same issue if lap time get faster or longer race.
I am thinking about Brake Duct Tube , I have put this kind of brake cooling system on my E92 M3 and it works awesome , but never see any shop selling this kind of kit for 991 GT3 .
My steering wheels GT3 CUP steering wheel, the Shift paddle and bottom is KMP steering wheel system.
That racetrack layout looks very brakes intensive, that's one factor.
The advice on Surface Transform rotors is Gold. I have witnessed a few cars running them and they are proving long lasting.
...now, tell us more about that steering wheel, I want one!
Thank you A/S
I am not sure if change the brake oil will make any help because I didn't boil my brake oil. but I will give a try , SRF not not easy to find in my country so I might try Brembo HTC 64T.
How's your PCCB now ? still working after overheated?
I bought my aftermarket disc from local shop , they are using very hard material for the disc , I was concern the overheat issue because the hard disc , but mot of brake shop told me the temp for hard or soft disc will not make temp very different , only brake performance.
That's why I would like to upgrade my brake cooling system , change the pads/disc/brake oil is worth to try but I might get same issue if lap time get faster or longer race.
I am thinking about Brake Duct Tube , I have put this kind of brake cooling system on my E92 M3 and it works awesome , but never see any shop selling this kind of kit for 991 GT3 .
My steering wheels GT3 CUP steering wheel, the Shift paddle and bottom is KMP steering wheel system.
That racetrack layout looks very brakes intensive, that's one factor.
The advice on Surface Transform rotors is Gold. I have witnessed a few cars running them and they are proving long lasting.
...now, tell us more about that steering wheel, I want one!
Thank you AS
I am not sure if change the brake oil will make any help because I didn't boil my brake oil. but I will give a try , SRF not not easy to find in my country so I might try Brembo HTC 64T.
How's your PCCB now ? still working after overheated?
I bought my aftermarket disc from local shop , they are using very hard material for the disc , I was concern the overheat issue because the hard disc , but mot of brake shop told me the temp for hard or soft disc will not make temp very different , only brake performance.
That's why I would like to upgrade my brake cooling system , change the pads/disc/brake oil is worth to try but I might get same issue if lap time get faster or longer race.
I am thinking about Brake Duct Tube , I have put this kind of brake cooling system on my E92 M3 and it works awesome , but never see any shop selling this kind of kit for 991 GT3 .
My steering wheels GT3 CUP steering wheel, the Shift paddle and bottom is KMP steering wheel system.
That racetrack layout looks very brakes intensive, that's one factor.
The advice on Surface Transform rotors is Gold. I have witnessed a few cars running them and they are proving long lasting.
...now, tell us more about that steering wheel, I want one!
Thank you AS
I am not sure if change the brake oil will make any help because I didn't boil my brake oil. but I will give a try , SRF not not easy to find in my country so I might try Brembo HTC 64T.
How's your PCCB now ? still working after overheated?
I bought my aftermarket disc from local shop , they are using very hard material for the disc , I was concern the overheat issue because the hard disc , but mot of brake shop told me the temp for hard or soft disc will not make temp very different , only brake performance.
That's why I would like to upgrade my brake cooling system , change the pads/disc/brake oil is worth to try but I might get same issue if lap time get faster or longer race.
I am thinking about Brake Duct Tube , but never see any shop selling this kind of kit for 991 GT3 .
My steering wheels GT3 CUP steering wheel, the Shift paddle and bottom is KMP steering wheel system.
Did you bed in the pads and rotors?...or just put them on and hit the track? These need to be bedded in together to transfer pad material to the rotor. Street driving on race pads will only take off the pad material transfer. Its best to swap back to street pads for the track. But you will have to re-bed in the race pads each time.
As far as rotors go...if you want to stay with steel...check out GiroDisc and AP Racing. If you track a lot each year and want a carbon disc for cooler brakes and long lasting then check out the ST Rotors TrackCar mentioned in a post above. You will have to weight out the costs based on your financial budget for this hobby.
Originally Posted by zedcat
From your description it does sound like you are getting the pads above optimal operating temps. looking at the Pagid website their plots go out to about 650 C. Also if you have the RSL1 in front and the RST in rear you have a little higher mu in the rear so already shifting the bias a little from front to rear. Perhaps consider Ferodo pads? They advertise the temp range for DS1.11 up to 750 C and the DS3.12 up to 850 C. I have used DS1.11 with no issues (not on slicks though). Have not tried the DS3.12 but might be worth trying in your case.
Originally Posted by A/S
That racetrack layout looks very brakes intensive, that's one factor.
Secondly, Slicks elevate the brakes work, brakes work harder.
Faster drivers put more stress on brakes than typical Lapping Day drivers.
I used Motul RBF 660 as a test a few years back, and Endless, and PFC fluids, and I always go back to Castrol SRF. Give it a try, 1 bottle is enough to flush and replace the system.
I overheated my front brakes at a local track (Palm Beach), despite of running on PCCB, the numerous cooling ducts in the 991.2 GT3 RS, just a hot day on very sticky tires (Hoosier R7).
The PFC braking system (steel rotors) is a great upgrade. Porsche OEM brakes are amazing, but at the top level of driving skills and with true race tires, the brakes are not sufficient, and some minor changes are needed.
The advice on Surface Transform rotors is Gold. I have witnessed a few cars running them and they are proving long lasting.
...now, tell us more about that steering wheel, I want one!
I think these guys have covered your problem. Pagids aren't up to the task. The RSL1 could barely cope with what Trakcar threw at them in Europe on Cup2 let alone slicks. Also bedding in is critical for pads to work well. If you go out and pound on them as you are being a very capable driver, they won't perform. You need to follow manufacturers instructions prior to track day and let them cool down fully before 10/10 braking... Finally A/S point on fluid is valid. If you are cooking pads you are cooking the fluid and compromising your braking.
I would move to a higher temp rated pad like the Ferodo suggestions or RE10 (on steel rotors) and switch to SRF. Pagids aren't up to the task with steel rotors. If you can't work that set up then Trakcar's suggestion of ST rotors is your last choice. Pretty sure he runs on slicks without braking issues as they run much cooler.
OP: you have the wrong understanding of pads and brake heat.
Pads change color all the time, many of them are designed to do just that. You need thermal paint on the rotors (not pads) and need to know exactly the range you're trying to achieve for this sort of analysis to be remotely constructive.
Brake cooling is rarely an issue with our GT cars, even in the 90+ degree climates on heavy braking tracks. I wouldn't put on new rotor hardware / ceramics just because you think you have a "temp problem". It could just be your pads giving up from abuse past or present.
Get a new set of pads. Focus on bedding them in properly. You need to work with someone who know what they're doing. Bring the combination of rotor and pads gradually up to temperature over 3 laps, your objective being to not spike, but to gradually build rotor temps, and to avoid getting so much pad heat that the resin in your new pads starts to burn. A fourth lap of regular-pressure braking and then cooldown, your set is now good to go. Avoid triggering ABS throughout these 5 laps.
This is what a set of properly bedded brakes look like. Focus on pad material deposited on the rotors, not the color of the pads
Lastly, OEM pads are exceedingly forgiving when it comes to these procedures. They're designed to be slapped on at any dealership and be good to drive down the boulevard. If you're running race pads from any of the reputable vendors, know that you must perform proper bedding to extract consistent performance.
Have you tried running Trofeo R? Not as good as a slick ofc but a bit better than cup 2. Trofeo Rs with PFC discs and pads is excellent.
Also porsche advise against running slicks on normal GT3s due to the stress it puts on the car compared to semi slicks, and especially with the RWS. But if that's no concern to you then keep running slicks and get a full AP Racing system with new calipers (should clear 19", but not sure) they'll handle the slicks.
Hello Reidar
Yes , Trofeo R is good , but still not good as A005 Medium slicks , The Trofeo R is very close to Pirelli hard slicks.
I know the Porsche against running slicks , but for my experience , if track line is correct , the G force will not bigger than trofeo R or CUP2 with wrong track line. still around 1.6~1.7G.
That racetrack layout looks very brakes intensive, that's one factor.
Secondly, Slicks elevate the brakes work, brakes work harder.
Faster drivers put more stress on brakes than typical Lapping Day drivers.
I used Motul RBF 660 as a test a few years back, and Endless, and PFC fluids, and I always go back to Castrol SRF. Give it a try, 1 bottle is enough to flush and replace the system.
I overheated my front brakes at a local track (Palm Beach), despite of running on PCCB, the numerous cooling ducts in the 991.2 GT3 RS, just a hot day on very sticky tires (Hoosier R7).
The PFC braking system (steel rotors) is a great upgrade. Porsche OEM brakes are amazing, but at the top level of driving skills and with true race tires, the brakes are not sufficient, and some minor changes are needed.
The advice on Surface Transform rotors is Gold. I have witnessed a few cars running them and they are proving long lasting.
...now, tell us more about that steering wheel, I want one!
Thank you AS
I am not sure if change the brake oil will make any help because I didn't boil my brake oil. but I will give a try .
How's your PCCB now ? still working after overheated?
I bought my aftermarket disc from local shop , they are using very hard material for the disc , I was concern the overheat issue because the hard disc , but mot of brake shop told me the temp for hard or soft disc will not make temp very different , only brake performance.
That's why I would like to upgrade my brake cooling system , change the pads/disc/brake oil is worth to try but I might get same issue if lap time get faster or longer race.
My steering wheels GT3 CUP steering wheel, the Shift paddle and bottom is KMP steering wheel system.
06-22-2019 | 11:18 AM
