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Hey Astol,
Thanks for participating but if you say I said something please make sure you are being accurate and stating what I said. I talk in facts. I would never say Lithium batteries are the same, this is what I do for a living. Also you are indicating I said all LIPO are created equal. I don't quite understand you statements either since they are sort of inaccurate, LIPO is not Lifepo, and there are many varients in Lithium Polymer batteries which are LIPO. Maybe you think because I stated "all the Motorsports batteries are Lifepo4" you think I meant all the Lithium Batteries are the same?
All I ever stated was all the Motorsports batteries are Lifepo4... that is fact. That means Antigravity , Braille, Voltphreaks and any other you can name all use the Lifepo4 chemistry of Lithium. That is because the Lifepo4 chemistry works with 12v Lead Acid based system. There are varying grade of quality and energy curves within that.
Your are also quite wrong on your terminology in discussing lithium batteries. There is not a LITHIUM-ION specific battery or specific chemistry. If you're in the battery industry you understand that the term "Lithium-Ion" is an umbrella term used to describe a "rechargeable lithium battery". That means my Antigravity RS-30 is a Lithium-Ion Battery as well as the Milwaukee Screw Guns at Home Depot that uses a completely different Lithium chemisty. Both are Lithium-Ion because they are both "rechargeable Lithium chemistries" The misnomer you find on the internet is that Lithium-Ion designates a certain chemistry of battery. It does not, as I said it's an umbrella term.
The other issue you are WAY off on is stating Lithium-Ions are more volatile than LIPOs.... That doesn't make sense because as I said Lithium-Ion is not specific chemistry... it is just an umbrella term. So if you are going to state one battery chemistry is more volatile than another you can't say Lithium-Ion since it does not designate a specific chemistry. But additionally LiPo batteries, (known as Lithium Polymer and are most often Lithium Cobalt) are absolutely one of the most volatile forms of Lithium batteries made, and are responsible for more fires than any other Lithium chemistry. The are more energy dense and do not handle over-charge or over discharge well at all and go into thermal runaway faster than the other chemistries. They and much less stable than most other chemistries. To put this into perspective LiPo batteries, which is mainly know as Lithium Cobalt based batteries are the batteries that are in Radio Controlled Cars and Planes, and are so volatile that you charge them in fire proof bags when you don't have protections circuits on them... ask any RC guy. Additionally they are the batteries that are in the Hooverboards that were catching fire so much a year ago. Granted they are also in Laptops and other electronics but those have protections systems in place so they won't get over-charged or over discharged. But they are not the stable choice in Lithium chemistries
Also I would be glad to speak to you on the PM but lets not go back and forth on types of lithium-ion in this particular thread. Its about Motorsports Batteries and the specifics related to that. That is my forte and what I do as my living. and everything I state will be accurate though you don't have to listen or accept it. I'm not talking point of view, I'm talking facts.
BTW English is my 3rd language, and no bad intention intended. I wrongly referred to LiPo as we do in the sailing world LiPO ~= LiFEPO4. Kind of lost in translation like Astol = Astolfo LOL.
Just out of curiosity I would still like to hear what brand are your cells, to see if are some of the ones we have used in the Vendee Globe, TP52 and AC. I think we had 4 or 5 sources ( if I remember correctly risklight/deligreen and suneseng were Chinese, and Siemens) and all of them with very different Puerket's curves, so we had to adjust our hydro generators regulators and charging windows.
I'll go in on a group buy as well, as long as the bracket and everything are good to go and it's all plug-and-play. The only thing I'm hesitant about is having to physically press a button on the battery if it goes to sleep to prevent it from fully discharging. Because then you need to worry about messing with the fuse box and a separate charging device to get the frunk open.
I'll go in on a group buy as well, as long as the bracket and everything are good to go and it's all plug-and-play. The only thing I'm hesitant about is having to physically press a button on the battery if it goes to sleep to prevent it from fully discharging. Because then you need to worry about messing with the fuse box and a separate charging device to get the frunk open.
I went with Voltphreaks battery because it comes with remote reset switch. In the rare case of battery shutting down to protect itself, I can reset the battery from the inside of the car (ran the reset wiring into the inside of the car). I also had Tony from Voltphreaks modified the location of the remote reset connector on the top of the battery to a slightly different location as the original location cannot be used due to the proximity with the positive terminal connection.
No affiliation or personal experience. Just throwing it into the mix.
Absolutely...always bring stuff into the mix on these conversation. This is about educating the consumer, then letting them make the most informed choice.
I know of Liteblox, we do SEMA every year so they were there this year. Looks cool, they offer a different interpretation of this type of product than we do. I don't agree with Carbon fiber Battery containers because though it looks cool, CF conducts electricity, and we are a bit conservative in putting ourselves in a position of liability. I don't want there to be some instance of a perfect storm due to an accident or otherwise when that carbon fiber shell contact both Positive and Negative connections on a battery capable of 300 to 1200 Amps and starts short circuiting. That is my OPINION... not something we have ever seen take place or happen. It just something we thought about a few year ago and I said no due to what I thought could be a liability as well as financially it increased the battery case cost to a ridiculous price point and it lowered our Case weight by 5 grams, so overall it was not enough for me to take that plunge and extra expense.
The Battery Cells in Lite-Blox are the A123 26650 Cylindrical Cells that we used about 3 years ago.... Its was a decent cell for that time, and is still pretty good... but compared to newer technology it's not as resilient to over-charge and over-discharge, so you need a good BMS. It has a lower C-Rate meaning it isn't quite as powerful overall as some of the cells today... but then again, it's powerful enough, lithium isn't lacking in cranking power. But A123 is not focusing so much on that Cylindrical cell technology anymore since they have a larger pouch format cell that is their mainstay. They went bankrupt a few year ago during the Fisker Car Era but were bought by a company called Wanxiang and are probably the better for it.
So we got our Battery Mount Samples today... While all looks good on them, the CNC guys gave me only the RED and BLUE anodizded samples, but didn't send me a raw Aluminum sample.
So the only changes you will see on the Trays below for this first run are;
1- The Laser etching saying Antigravity Batteries on the top mount bar will be in our special font and larger...
2- The colors available will be Billet Aluminum, Red and Blue Anodizing.
3- The bolts that hold the side rods will be a a stainless steel countersunk bolt... so it will be clean looking.
Below are some pictures and the weights... I will approve the samples today and I'm told about 3 week full production... over the next few days I will put up some pricing on a few different option.... and tell you how much more the colors are since I have not gotten the final pricing yet.
Option for the group buy will be;
1-RS-30 Battery with Mount Only.
2-RS-30 Battery with Mount and a Charger. Being honest I don't think you will ever need anything but a .8amp Maintainer type charger... but if you want the 5-Amp (more expensive) model we can calculate that also. 5-Amp charger only chargers faster and has some extra diagnostic and saving features.
3-ATX-30 (currently sold out due in Late April or early May) with Mount.
4-ATX-30 (currently sold out due in Late April or early May) with Mount. and charger..... again you should only need the .8Amp charger rather than the 5-Amp Charger.
Below are some images with weights. Keep in mind if you are street driving you won't need to have the top hold-down bar bar or rods mounted... This Tray alone actually mounts on bottom of the battery with six little screws... but for racing and tracking you going to want the top mount on due to much high vibration movement on the track and Racing. Also some organization require a metal hold down. Either way, all the kits come with all the parts I'm just saying you don't have to install them all if you not really creating the heavy vibration and loads that massive breaking and speeds cause on the car.
04-13-2018, 01:56 PM
