Turbo my Cayman GTS?
#16
Burning Brakes
Personally I wouldn't turbo the car as I feel it would ruin the essence of what a CGTS is all about to me - naturally aspirated, linear power, corner carving sports cars.
I'd also be scared to lose my warranty as well as diminish the trade in value, I'd never buy a car with an aftermarket turbo on it and certainly not a Porsche that was out of warranty.
Once in a while I feel like I'd need to have more power but then I hit a good section of twisty roads and I'm very content. I tend to focus more on the cornering G's than on the speedometer. Here's a pic of my personal best 1.04 G's - LOTS of FUN.
Personally I may upgrade to a 981 Spyder or a GT4 in my quest for my power..
I'd also be scared to lose my warranty as well as diminish the trade in value, I'd never buy a car with an aftermarket turbo on it and certainly not a Porsche that was out of warranty.
Once in a while I feel like I'd need to have more power but then I hit a good section of twisty roads and I'm very content. I tend to focus more on the cornering G's than on the speedometer. Here's a pic of my personal best 1.04 G's - LOTS of FUN.
Personally I may upgrade to a 981 Spyder or a GT4 in my quest for my power..
#17
As others have said i wouldnt. Buy a 718 GTS when it comes out.
OR if you want more power and sound do engine mods/swap to a 3.8 or 4.0L. That would be amazing. But itll cost ya $$$ but im sure for the right price its possible.
OR if you want more power and sound do engine mods/swap to a 3.8 or 4.0L. That would be amazing. But itll cost ya $$$ but im sure for the right price its possible.
#18
As mentioned, if you're hell-bent on more power, go the 3.8L NA conversion option. A 981 GTS with a turbo makes no sense to begin with. But even if you could add one, it'd be a constant source of frustration, headaches, and reliability issues.
#23
Turboing a stock 9A1 motor not designed for it means a short engine life. the only question is how long will it last?
For one, the rings in the 9A1 engine are low tension and not very durable to pressures and heat that turbos create. The low tension to the cylinder wall and tight piston to cylinder wall clearance is to make the Alusil silicon crystal surface of the cylinders last.
The crankshaft, rods and pistons are generally stronger in a factory 9A1 turbo motor. The added rotating weight lowers redline even with stronger rods and pistons. As noted by other people, this changes the driving characteristics of the car. Look at the 9A2 turbo motors. I believe redline on most have been reduced to 7400 RPM from 7800.
Also, 12.5:1 compression ratio is too high. Looks at 991 turbos they have 9.8:1 CR for a reason.
A proper turbo engine should be completely disassembled and at least the rods and pistons replaced, the CR adjusted, the cylinder coating replaced with Nikasil and stronger rings used. That still ignores the cams, valves, crankshaft, tuning, and increased liquid and air cooling needs (can't easily fit an intercooler in a mid-engine car).
If you want a turbo, buy a factory one.
V6
For one, the rings in the 9A1 engine are low tension and not very durable to pressures and heat that turbos create. The low tension to the cylinder wall and tight piston to cylinder wall clearance is to make the Alusil silicon crystal surface of the cylinders last.
The crankshaft, rods and pistons are generally stronger in a factory 9A1 turbo motor. The added rotating weight lowers redline even with stronger rods and pistons. As noted by other people, this changes the driving characteristics of the car. Look at the 9A2 turbo motors. I believe redline on most have been reduced to 7400 RPM from 7800.
Also, 12.5:1 compression ratio is too high. Looks at 991 turbos they have 9.8:1 CR for a reason.
A proper turbo engine should be completely disassembled and at least the rods and pistons replaced, the CR adjusted, the cylinder coating replaced with Nikasil and stronger rings used. That still ignores the cams, valves, crankshaft, tuning, and increased liquid and air cooling needs (can't easily fit an intercooler in a mid-engine car).
If you want a turbo, buy a factory one.
V6
#25
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you Turbo your GTS you will "kill" the value - so you are better off to keep it, add TB, Tune and headers making it all it can be, or simply sell it or trade it for a car that better suites what you want. GT4 is great, but still may not be enough. If you love the Cayman mid engine layout and handling then wait for the GTS in the 982 turbo version and get that, and you will get all you want and not impact the value of your car.
#26
Burning Brakes
Turboing a stock 9A1 motor not designed for it means a short engine life. the only question is how long will it last?
For one, the rings in the 9A1 engine are low tension and not very durable to pressures and heat that turbos create. The low tension to the cylinder wall and tight piston to cylinder wall clearance is to make the Alusil silicon crystal surface of the cylinders last.
The crankshaft, rods and pistons are generally stronger in a factory 9A1 turbo motor. The added rotating weight lowers redline even with stronger rods and pistons. As noted by other people, this changes the driving characteristics of the car. Look at the 9A2 turbo motors. I believe redline on most have been reduced to 7400 RPM from 7800.
Also, 12.5:1 compression ratio is too high. Looks at 991 turbos they have 9.8:1 CR for a reason.
A proper turbo engine should be completely disassembled and at least the rods and pistons replaced, the CR adjusted, the cylinder coating replaced with Nikasil and stronger rings used. That still ignores the cams, valves, crankshaft, tuning, and increased liquid and air cooling needs (can't easily fit an intercooler in a mid-engine car).
If you want a turbo, buy a factory one.
V6
For one, the rings in the 9A1 engine are low tension and not very durable to pressures and heat that turbos create. The low tension to the cylinder wall and tight piston to cylinder wall clearance is to make the Alusil silicon crystal surface of the cylinders last.
The crankshaft, rods and pistons are generally stronger in a factory 9A1 turbo motor. The added rotating weight lowers redline even with stronger rods and pistons. As noted by other people, this changes the driving characteristics of the car. Look at the 9A2 turbo motors. I believe redline on most have been reduced to 7400 RPM from 7800.
Also, 12.5:1 compression ratio is too high. Looks at 991 turbos they have 9.8:1 CR for a reason.
A proper turbo engine should be completely disassembled and at least the rods and pistons replaced, the CR adjusted, the cylinder coating replaced with Nikasil and stronger rings used. That still ignores the cams, valves, crankshaft, tuning, and increased liquid and air cooling needs (can't easily fit an intercooler in a mid-engine car).
If you want a turbo, buy a factory one.
V6
#27
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Recently have been obsessed with the thought of turbocharging my 981 Cayman GTS. Its brand new, only got 4k miles on it. But i just keep finding it being slow
its an amazing car, great sounds, great chassis, turns like a beast. But i just want more pulls and a bit more straightline performance.
Anyone here has turbo or supercharged their 981 before?
What are some of my options?
Is it even remotely reliable? I'm pretty sure ill be voiding my warranty if i do it. Which i REAALLLLYY shouldn't do...but...might be one of those stupid impulse things...it sounds stupid. I know it would be stupid. Yet, i still really want to do it.
its an amazing car, great sounds, great chassis, turns like a beast. But i just want more pulls and a bit more straightline performance.
Anyone here has turbo or supercharged their 981 before?
What are some of my options?
Is it even remotely reliable? I'm pretty sure ill be voiding my warranty if i do it. Which i REAALLLLYY shouldn't do...but...might be one of those stupid impulse things...it sounds stupid. I know it would be stupid. Yet, i still really want to do it.
__________________
Porsche Performance Specialist
John@Fabspeed.com
215-618-9796
Fabspeed Motorsport USA
155 Commerce Drive Fort Washington, PA 19034
www.Fabspeed.com
Porsche Performance Specialist
John@Fabspeed.com
215-618-9796
Fabspeed Motorsport USA
155 Commerce Drive Fort Washington, PA 19034
www.Fabspeed.com