SCMike

My Owner's Manual gives the torque spec for the original wheel *bolts* on the 2011 Spyder as the well-known 96 ft-lb. But my car came with the bolts replaced by threaded studs and 19mm nuts to secure the wheels. Should the *nuts* be torqued to the same specs as the *bolts*? I've searched here and more widely, and only become more confused. Anyone have a reliable reference?

golfnutintib

i believe the answer is yes

STLPCA

^ correct. 96 ft lbs was the spec when Porsche's last oem was studs and lug nuts. I've used 96 for my street/track Caymans since 2006 - all of which were converted to studs. No issues.

JCtx

Interesting that my 2016 GTS specifies 118 ft/lbs for the lug bolts now. Having said that, most lug nut specs are from 75 to 100 ft/lbs, but I'd check with the stud manufacturer. You don't want to overtorque it. To be honest, 96 seems quite high for a very light car with narrow tires. The 100 was on my last Corvette, which had 285 front tires, and it's a lot heavier. If the studs can take it, I'd use the factory spec.

STLPCA

Porsche's factory torque spec was 96 ft/lbs for the base 993 with its relatively narrow/light wheel set, the 993 TT with wider/heavier wheel set and every 911 in between. The only commonality was the studs which should be the same specs as the OP's.

Let's not over complicate a very simple question with guesses - 96 works quite well and is commonly used in the Porsche world.

JCtx

My point is the studs should be able to take that torque. OP didn't specify brand or material of studs used. For instance, some titanium lug nuts can't stand 96 or 100 ft/lbs of torque, and you have to use their max rating. If factory spec for lug nuts is 96, I wouldn't use anything else indeed. OP just needs to make sure his studs can take it. If they're steel, they should be fine. That's not too complicated, is it?

Dr.Bill

I'd check with the manufacturer of the studs. That's the easy solution and the safest.

The Porsche spec used to be 130NM (95.8 lb-ft). The newer, black lug bolts have a spec of 160NM (118 lb-ft). I believe the change was in 2012. Check the owners manual to confirm. Your Spyder should be the original 130NM.

I have a set of studs and nuts that call for 105 lb-ft torque. Probably anywhere from 96 to 118 lb-ft would work.

kosmo

if they are Track Studs then the torque will be the same as OEM. Contact them.

hueyhoolihan

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zuch

Related, but slightly off topic as the OP has studs, at some point Porsche changed from requiring Optimoly (antisieze) on the lug bolts to later, not requiring it. The owners manual for my 2009 calls for it, along with the familiar 96 ft-lb torque. Later owners manuals call for the higher torque value without Optimoly. I have heard that mechanics use a 20% reduction in torque if they are torqueing wet (with antisieze) vs. dry (without antisieze) as the antisieze acts as a lubricant and the effective torque is higher when antisieze is used. That 20% is pretty close to the difference in the two Porsche torque values. The workshop manual calls for Silver bolts up to model year 2011 to be torqued to 96 ft-lbs with a note that allows 118 ft-lbs retroactively. Silver bolts for model year 2012 have a spec of 118 ft-lbs and and black bolts have a spec of 118 ft-lbs. As an aside, my 1964 356, with lug nuts, calls for 95 ft-lb torque so that 95/96 ft-lb value has been around for a very long time.