Your tips on Boxster winter storage
#1
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Morning,I live in MA and will be putting my Boxster away shortly ...it will be garaged for the winter but I was hoping for tips,processes or best practices regarding storage especially relating to gas levels,battery,interior etc etc...thanks for your input in advance
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#2
Race Director
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Be sure at the top of your list you do an oil/filter service before you put the car away.
Inflate the tires to the max allowed pressure.
Fill the gas tank. Up to you if you want to use some fuel treatment, stabilizer.
My sister's new Infiniti sat from late Jan. to the last day of June unused and the gas was fine, though I found out later stale. The engine started, idled and ran ok other than it was down on power. But being unfamiliar with the car I just assumed that was the way it was. I drove the car enough that the tank level got to 1/4 tank and after I filled the tank with Shell 91 octane (the recommended octane) the engine was transformed.
Can't help you regarding the battery. The battery in her car was new and just fine. But then the car sat from the 1st week in July (after I was through driving it) until Feb. of the following year and the battery was flat and had to be replaced.
Be sure you take precautions to keep rodents (mice or ?) out of the car.
Inflate the tires to the max allowed pressure.
Fill the gas tank. Up to you if you want to use some fuel treatment, stabilizer.
My sister's new Infiniti sat from late Jan. to the last day of June unused and the gas was fine, though I found out later stale. The engine started, idled and ran ok other than it was down on power. But being unfamiliar with the car I just assumed that was the way it was. I drove the car enough that the tank level got to 1/4 tank and after I filled the tank with Shell 91 octane (the recommended octane) the engine was transformed.
Can't help you regarding the battery. The battery in her car was new and just fine. But then the car sat from the 1st week in July (after I was through driving it) until Feb. of the following year and the battery was flat and had to be replaced.
Be sure you take precautions to keep rodents (mice or ?) out of the car.
#3
Banned
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All of the above plus you need to get a battery maintainer. I use the CTEK 7002 on all of my cars...if you have a cigarette outlet get the extra connector for this and plug in. Amazon usually has the best prices. CTEK also makes the one Porsche sells.
#4
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Can't say enough about using these they protect the interior from excessive moisture and the cost is nominal.
http://www.soap.com/p/damp-rid-dispo...la&cagpspn=pla
http://www.soap.com/p/damp-rid-dispo...la&cagpspn=pla
#5
Burning Brakes
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Mine goes into storage every year from mid october till the end of April.
1) Oil/filter change & inspection on brakes & suspenion parts
2) Fuel stabilizer in 1/4 tank of fuel
3) 40PSI in the tires
4) Battery tender
5) I do a completed detail, wash, clay bar, wax and interior clean up, so it's ready for spring.
6) Car cover and storage in heated gargage for the winter.
1) Oil/filter change & inspection on brakes & suspenion parts
2) Fuel stabilizer in 1/4 tank of fuel
3) 40PSI in the tires
4) Battery tender
5) I do a completed detail, wash, clay bar, wax and interior clean up, so it's ready for spring.
6) Car cover and storage in heated gargage for the winter.
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vsemory (09-11-2023)
#6
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I'm curious, why the 1/4 tank? I was always taught be it boat or car, the less air in the tank the better in terms of exposed metal oxidation or in other words the "fuller the better".
PS I put the car on a tarp to limit moisture from any other garage sources during winter.
PS I put the car on a tarp to limit moisture from any other garage sources during winter.
#7
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IMO, If your car storage is inside a garage, preferably heated to some degree, then it is probably OK to store with less than a full tank. A stable temperature with lower humidity will cause less air to migrate in and out of the tank and cause less condensation on the inside of the tank.
Outside storage or storage where temperatures will fluctuate will cause more condensation, and a full tank would be the best defense against water in the tank due to condensation or tank corrosion in this case.
Outside storage or storage where temperatures will fluctuate will cause more condensation, and a full tank would be the best defense against water in the tank due to condensation or tank corrosion in this case.
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#8
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I would prefer the tank be full or nearly full to keep the fuel pump, hoses, and tank fuel level hardware submerged so these do not "dry" out during the storage.
The tank is not vented to atmosphere so any moisture accumulation will be nil.
As soon as the key is turned on the fuel pump will run and the way the fuel system works this will agitate the fuel in the tank and any stratification will be instantly dealt with.
The bad thing -- and it is not that bad -- is the fuel can be stale and one has to drive the car enough to burn enough fuel to add fresh. In hindsight with my sister's car I would have filled the tank up at say 1/2 tank down rather than waiting for it to get to 3/4 tank down. But that is my habit with cars to generally drive them until the tank level reaches 1/4 tank before filling the tank.
The tank is not vented to atmosphere so any moisture accumulation will be nil.
As soon as the key is turned on the fuel pump will run and the way the fuel system works this will agitate the fuel in the tank and any stratification will be instantly dealt with.
The bad thing -- and it is not that bad -- is the fuel can be stale and one has to drive the car enough to burn enough fuel to add fresh. In hindsight with my sister's car I would have filled the tank up at say 1/2 tank down rather than waiting for it to get to 3/4 tank down. But that is my habit with cars to generally drive them until the tank level reaches 1/4 tank before filling the tank.
#9
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All maintenance up to date.
Full concours wheels off detail.
Over inflate tires to 55-58 PSI, nitrogen preferred.
Fuel tank very full, StaBil run in (1 ounce per 2.5 gallons fuel).
Dessiccant in cabin, frunk and trunk.
Doors locked, windows closed.
Park out of gear, no e-brake, chock wheels.
Porsche battery maintainer.
Car cover.
Turn off most insurance coverage.
Place keys in safe location.
Don't start car till spring.
Full concours wheels off detail.
Over inflate tires to 55-58 PSI, nitrogen preferred.
Fuel tank very full, StaBil run in (1 ounce per 2.5 gallons fuel).
Dessiccant in cabin, frunk and trunk.
Doors locked, windows closed.
Park out of gear, no e-brake, chock wheels.
Porsche battery maintainer.
Car cover.
Turn off most insurance coverage.
Place keys in safe location.
Don't start car till spring.
#10
Burning Brakes
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I'm curious, why the 1/4 tank? I was always taught be it boat or car, the less air in the tank the better in terms of exposed metal oxidation or in other words the "fuller the better".
PS I put the car on a tarp to limit moisture from any other garage sources during winter.
PS I put the car on a tarp to limit moisture from any other garage sources during winter.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Agree, outside or cold storage would required a full tank to limit condensation.
#12
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I don't yet have the luxury of a full time heated garage, it does have a pellet stove to crank up for winter work but no constant source, at least it's 24'
x 24' but next year I'm moving to a new house! I trust the juju in Stabil so the freshness of the gas isn't so important to me. Having worked for Esso, Exxon and Chevron, I can assure you gas sits along the distribution chain and it's just fine. IMO, the storage tank condition of the local station site is more critical than fuel age, unless of course we are taking extended periods where gas will almost become gelatinous shellac.
PS You all forgot a critical step: Leave enough room to access driver's seat for a January sitting as you watch each exhalation of breath, freezing your sack off, making motor noises dreaming of spring.
x 24' but next year I'm moving to a new house! I trust the juju in Stabil so the freshness of the gas isn't so important to me. Having worked for Esso, Exxon and Chevron, I can assure you gas sits along the distribution chain and it's just fine. IMO, the storage tank condition of the local station site is more critical than fuel age, unless of course we are taking extended periods where gas will almost become gelatinous shellac.
PS You all forgot a critical step: Leave enough room to access driver's seat for a January sitting as you watch each exhalation of breath, freezing your sack off, making motor noises dreaming of spring.
#14
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[QUOTE=Macster;10969295]Be sure at the top of your list you do an oil/filter service before you put the car away.
Just wondering what the thinking is for an oil change before storing the car. I would think you would want the fresh oil in the spring when you will start driving again.
Just wondering what the thinking is for an oil change before storing the car. I would think you would want the fresh oil in the spring when you will start driving again.
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^re: oil change before hibernation.
After you workout. do you shower before going into the office or before going to bed?
After you workout. do you shower before going into the office or before going to bed?