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Yes on both. When I broke down at the track in April, a mechanic from my local dealership was there and following the codes he pulled the CAN pins (hi/lo) and checked them for connectivity, sliding the pin onto the connector to check for "snug" when done.
A few weeks ago, I started pulling individual pins and checking them for grip. Every one of them was nice and tight, and with the trouble I had removing a couple of them, became convinced I was running down a road that would eventually result in the breaking one of the tiny pin retainers. I decided instead to pull the connectors from their shells, and watch the PDK live values while I wiggled and tried to simulate the worst vibration or jostle possible. All of the values were rock-steady while I pulled and wiggled the connectors
I have still have the rear-end of the car disassembled which gives me way better access to the PDK plugs. I'm going to see if I can do some continuity test between the PDK and TCU ends, but I would really expect the PIWIS live values to be the better indicator of whether the computer is picking up all of the sensors, and able to control the internal actuators.
I have one more weekend day to try to diagnose, failing any resolution today, I'll try to put my screenshots together in some logical way that might present this case better. Anyway, I appreciate you trying to help. You previously sent me the link to Mauser, where I can purchase pins so it may come down to repinning the entire harness.
Just as an aside question, since you have already figured out what pins are needed for the TCU side, do you have ANY idea what size pins would be used on the round PDK plugs? The T-Design distance sensor is a really nice solution, and he offers a lifetime warranty on it, but it would be GREATLY enhanced, in my opinion, if the new wires could be pinned into the connector rather than cut/spliced with the old internal harness. My existing (internal) harnesses Yellow Wire had broken insulation (NOT melted) in 3 places. It almost seems like Porsche had a spool of defective wire that ended up in my transmission. The conductor was perfectly fine so I spliced it as near to the round plug as I could and sleeved it with a shrink tube. I'll include a picture:
I agree, if you don't see any response on the values in PIWIS when wiggling the wires, the connector is probably good.
I don't know the pins for sure but it is a VW connector.
I spent last night and this evening at my shop putting everything back together. Bad news is I have two bolts left over from the bumper assembly, They are small torx head bolts, NOT the screws that hold the bumpers but a similar size, black, bolt. I'm racking my brain trying to think what I might have missed.
Good news is, my car is running and driving again. I did a 15 minute warmup drive and then about 30 minutes of everything from 40mph cruising to a "floor it to 115, brake to 60". The gear shifting on the initial 15 minute warm up had a hard downshift to 1st at one point, and was a little slow on at least one acceleration. I think this must have just been the adaptations because eventually the shifting was butter smooth. I did a few manual shifts in there, especially down shifts and those were smooth as well.
I'll do a 2-3 hour spirited drive this weekend and report back. Fingers crossed the problem is fixed.
06-11-2023, 05:49 PM
