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New member - first post
987.1 Cayman S 6-speed. 100k+ miles.
Sometimes (25% of the time) I put my key in the ignition switch and turn it and absolutely nothing happens. No click of the steering lock, no lights on the instrument pane, no cranking... nothing.
I turn the key back and on again and this time it works perfectly.
I've heard there are issues with failures on these ignition switches, but usually it's stiff, or not returning, or trapping the key. I have none of these problems, just this occasional 'no-fire'.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Yep - thanks Ekam - I have read that article, but it doesn't really tell me what I need to know. It seems to be suggesting that, as a later-than-2005 car I need to dismantle the entire steering system to release the lock. But my lock doesn't need releasing - it's only the electrical part that isn't working. Surely I don't have to dismantle the entire steering system to repair or replace the electrical part of the switch...
Has anyone experienced this failure mode, and how did you fix it?
Sometimes (25% of the time) I put my key in the ignition switch and turn it and absolutely nothing happens. No click of the steering lock, no lights on the instrument pane, no cranking... nothing.
I turn the key back and on again and this time it works perfectly.
It may be your clutch switch. This is the same problem I started having last summer. I know it sounds odd, but yes, turning off the key, back on, maybe a few times, got it to start.
I actually jumpered the socket with a male-male spade-terminal cable about 2" long. That fixed it, it was the switch. I have a new one coming and will install it when the car comes out of hibernation in a few weeks.
You can get at this switch and socket pretty easy. look under the dash above the clutch. You could jumper this easily to test it
Last edited by ClemCLone; Mar 31, 2023 at 08:00 PM.
the clutch switch is a nanny device, for those that don't drive a manual. i'd leave the bypass on. after all, do you ever accidently tie your shoe before putting it on? or put them on before your socks? no, of course not. not even in a lifetime. and so, we develop habits that are ingrained. once created, one will never try to start their manual car before ensuring that it is neutral.
Wow, perfect timing. I just jumped on here to search because I have the same exact issue. Mine is a PDK so no clutch switch. Thought maybe the brake switch but pumping the brake multiple times does nothing, turning the ignition back and forth it does eventually start.
Sounds like you need to replace the ignition module. It's an easy repair. There is a wire tie inside the knee panel that you will have to cut to release the wiring. Otherwise it's not difficult. Undo the trim ring at the key switch then unscrew the retaining plastic nut, cut the wire tie and follow the wiring to the connector. Reverse to complete the work. When I did mine I found that jiggling the key would get the car started and that pointed me to the switch module. Good luck
Good to hear, I kind of jumped the gun and ordered the part, was hoping that was the case. Like your Black Edition, sweet car! Almost went for one myself but the one I was looking at was a little higher in mileage than I was comfortable with. Plus, I'm a poor steward of cars with collector value, it would be unfair to bring a 9/10 Black Edition to the track and chip it up!
Thank you for your reply, I'll post back with results
Good to hear, I kind of jumped the gun and ordered the part, was hoping that was the case. Like your Black Edition, sweet car! Almost went for one myself but the one I was looking at was a little higher in mileage than I was comfortable with. Plus, I'm a poor steward of cars with collector value, it would be unfair to bring a 9/10 Black Edition to the track and chip it up!
Thank you for your reply, I'll post back with results
Yep and I was torn between passing on this car due to the higher price than I had budgeted, but YOLO kicked in and I bought it in 2014 with only 4k miles. There is a slight advantage to this 987.2 with the 330 HP and I think the exhaust might be a bit more open. I don't really treat it like a collector car since it's made to be driven.
Gotta say that "easy repair" is an understatement. I can't remember the last time any repair took me this little amount of time. Switch is a bit expensive (for what it is) but I think I was inconvenienced a grand total of 30 mins. It cured not only my intermittent starting problems, but also a condition where my car would repeatedly start and stall.
I just purchased a 2010 Cayman S and noticed a couple of times that car doesn't crank when I turn the key. Exact symptom as if I did not depress the clutch all the way down. I'll check the clutch switch and bypass it to see if that does it.
@mskar can you please post the part number of the ignition module in case clutch switch doesn't fix the issue?
Sure, here you go: 997-618-159-07 I paid $283 from my local dealership which was actually the cheapest I could find. Two things... if you stick a key into the new part and turn it, expect to have to pry the little plastic piece off the front and hit the release to get your key back. Second, no need to reprogram or rekey anything. The switch fits any key of our type, and the brains of the operation is not the switch, its the PAS computer.
Removal:
Pretty sure the connector popped right off, the experience was not memorable. There is probably a release on the connector.
Installation:
I used a long piece of tape, taped to both sides of the ignition switch to be able to pull the switch up near the hole&connector while I reached up from the bottom and snapped the connector back together one-handed.
Sure, here you go: 997-618-159-07 I paid $283 from my local dealership which was actually the cheapest I could find. Two things... if you stick a key into the new part and turn it, expect to have to pry the little plastic piece off the front and hit the release to get your key back. Second, no need to reprogram or rekey anything. The switch fits any key of our type, and the brains of the operation is not the switch, its the PAS computer.
Removal:
Pretty sure the connector popped right off, the experience was not memorable. There is probably a release on the connector.
Installation:
I used a long piece of tape, taped to both sides of the ignition switch to be able to pull the switch up near the hole&connector while I reached up from the bottom and snapped the connector back together one-handed.
Hey MSKAR, I'm having the same issue with my 981, do you know if this item is a straight replacement or do I need dealer reprogramming?
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