Topshelf

No. So two days ago I started it up, drove an hour for a ceramic coating quote, chatted for a good 45 minutes, then got back in the car. First attempt I got a click, but quickly tried again and it fired right up. Just assumed I screwed up as using an old school key is still a learning curve. Then ran errands for 3 more hours with multiple starts, no issues.

Yesterday morning I got in and first attempt it clicked, second started right up. Was about to head out but realized I might have an issue. Let it idle for 5 minutes, then shut it off and tried again. Got a few clicks followed by a start. Now nervous, tried again and only clicks since. When it starts, it starts very quickly, no slow cranking, which is why battery didn't jump out at me. Odd.

zuch

Could you tell if the clicks were coming from the starter? There are a couple of other relays in the start circuit that you could hear clicking. The reason I ask, is that it is possible you have a key/immobilizer issue as well I suppose. Sorry to add another possible problem to the list. I agree with you that your most likely issue is starter (followed by battery then alternator).

Topshelf

While trying to tap the starter this morning, I could feel the click coming from it actually. At least it felt like it was, not exactly easy access from up top.

Someone else mentioned key, but I only have 1, so can't even test a spare. spare.

Quite the frustrating tbh. lol

Topshelf

Last update for today. Battery was reading 13.5v at the posts, so I connected the iCarsoft and got a live voltage reading going. In the minute it took, battery dropped to 12.6v on scanner and verified at posts as well. Tried starting and voltage drops to 12.1v while holding the key in the start position, then returns to 12.6v when released. No start.

One thing I noticed is that I can control the clicking by how long the key is held to start. Only mention this as I believe it's just evidence the clicking is coming from the starter and not a relay, I think.

Here's tonight's failed attempt if these noises mean anything to anyone.

Topshelf

Ok, one interesting thing. Just closed her up for the night with the trickle charger running. Figure I'll give it overnight and one final shot in the morning. Anyway, while locking the car, I now get a beep from the horn. Never heard that before. Only change is the battery being charged. Hmmmmmm........

Topshelf

Well, full charge overnight, plus a jump from the 958. It's reading 14.8v via iCarsoft and still the exact same clicking. Voltage drops to about 14.2v while key is in start position, but instantly returns to 14.8v on release.

I'm not saying the battery doesn't need replacement, but is it now safe to assume I'm looking at a starter?

zuch

That is where I would bet my (your) money.

Topshelf

Same. Just pulled the battery to take for testing as final step. Didn't even realize it's an AGM, and there's a second sticker stating 11/2021. Having a tough time believing this battery is shot at this point. Though certainly there was a low charge on it. Will update again after testing just in case anyone else runs into something similar in the future.

zuch

If you aren't in a hurry (ie. you can order the starter after you know the old one is bad and you don't need the car for a couple of days), pull the starter and test it on a different battery (different car) with it laying on the ground. That way you are only out your own time and not the price of a starter (though it is likely bad).

Topshelf

That's a good idea! I'll try to pull it today actually as I have no idea how long the wait time on shipping is. Pelican shows 1½ weeks. Dealer can get in a day, but at literally twice the price. Ouch! Been waiting months to drive this thing, weather finally gets here and now it's parked. Ugh.

TMc993

If you pull the starter to test it, take it to a shop that rebuilds starters and alternators and have them bench test it. Then you'll know for sure (And they may be able to rebuild it in less time and for less money than you could get one from Pelican).

Topshelf

Hmm, wonder if it's easy to locate a shop like that? Just left Autozone and battery was confirmed to be 6 months old and tested 100%. So that starter is coming out next.

sword369

I had a similar problem and also thought the starter and negative leads! I found it was the positive cable from the battery to the bulk head. The connector on the bulk head positive lead corroded and lead to a poor connection and hence clicks but no start.
If yours is the same, the connector on the bulk head is a clip type fitting and can be PITA to get off. Try rotating the clip back and forth on the pin which cleans the corrosion and should allow the car to start. If that works remove it and clean the pin and fitting with wire wool or similar.

Topshelf

Thanks for that info. Funny enough I just finished watching a YT video about that connection. Sadly, didn't fix my issue. That said, if you ever need to get that off again, a plastic rivet tool worked perfect to slide it off trouble free in seconds.


As far as where I'm at, thanks to a previous post I located a local alternator and starter repair shop. Very nice and helpful. Told me to run a jumper cable from the negative to the block to bypass ground issues. Again, no luck.

So it's either the starter, the connection at the starter, or a key issue. I'm thinking starter. His rebuild price is a fraction of a remanufactured one, and even his new price was a steal. I'm just going to have him order a new one at this point and be done with it. Hopefully. Now I just need to find a good video to watch to remove everything up top for access. Fingers crossed next week this will be resolved.

TMc993

Google is your friend...Before I posted my suggestion I searched for "Generator, Starter, Alternator Rebuilders in Atlanta" (Because that's the area I'm in) and came up with several shops that do just that. Maybe they don't do that kind of thing in PA..I don' know....That said, I think you ought to move forward with replacing the starter because that's clearly what you want to do.