How tough is a starter replacement?
#1
Racer
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Pretty sure my starter is on its way out. Yesterday, after a long drive, when I went to restart it I heard a loud click from the engine area, but no crank. Released key and tried again and it fired right up. Honestly didn't think twice about it. Just now hopped in to go run some errands and same issue, except it will click a dozen times or twice before it cranks over. Completely random. I'll check battery voltage and lines later today when I have time, but just trying to get myself ready for a starter install. Is it that bad?
#2
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Pretty sure my starter is on its way out. Yesterday, after a long drive, when I went to restart it I heard a loud click from the engine area, but no crank. Released key and tried again and it fired right up. Honestly didn't think twice about it. Just now hopped in to go run some errands and same issue, except it will click a dozen times or twice before it cranks over. Completely random. I'll check battery voltage and lines later today when I have time, but just trying to get myself ready for a starter install. Is it that bad?
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Schwinn (05-10-2022)
#3
Racer
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Oh yeah, I'll 100% look into the battery and the lines first. I don't know how old it is, tonight I'll see if there's a date code on it when I go to test. I'm also assuming that iCarsoft has a live data feature where I can read voltage levels while trying to crank. It's a 2010, so assuming 6 year battery life that would make sense, but it's very different from any other weak battery I've ever experienced over the years. I would expect a slow crank, but it's just a loud click. Then when it does start it's instantaneously. Very odd. But yes, will check battery first.
#6
Racer
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Ok, so battery checked out good. 12.4v on first test. There's also a sticker on it that reads 11/21, so I'm taking that as it's basically brand new.
I took a video of the clicking noise I get while trying to start it as well as a reading from iCarsoft showing the voltage reading during the process. It drops from 12.3v to 11.9v basically, but I believe that to be perfectly normal considering the starter is locking up or something.
I'm about to order one up, but would love to hear any ideas before I do as the OEM version is over $500 and 2 weeks out. :/
Thanks
I took a video of the clicking noise I get while trying to start it as well as a reading from iCarsoft showing the voltage reading during the process. It drops from 12.3v to 11.9v basically, but I believe that to be perfectly normal considering the starter is locking up or something.
I'm about to order one up, but would love to hear any ideas before I do as the OEM version is over $500 and 2 weeks out. :/
#7
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electric starter motors on cars are very simple devices... *tuneless whistling*
DIY Starter Motor Rebuild - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
just a thought... might want to check your battery ground wire. the starter pulls a lot more juice than the rest of the car and needs a good one. easy enough.
DIY Starter Motor Rebuild - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
just a thought... might want to check your battery ground wire. the starter pulls a lot more juice than the rest of the car and needs a good one. easy enough.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 05-10-2022 at 08:49 PM.
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#8
Racer
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#9
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most likely, there should be markings on the tops or to the side of each terminal noting its polarity. + and -
should be tight and no evidence of corrosion.
should be tight and no evidence of corrosion.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 05-10-2022 at 09:31 PM.
#10
Racer
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Ok thanks. I know the negative side, just wanted to make sure I was checking the wire you were referencing. Wasn't sure if there was something in the engine bay I wasn't aware of.
#11
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Good suggestions to check the ground cable, but honestly it sounds like the battery probably has the necessary voltage is too weak to support the current necessary to start. I'd stop by your local parts store and ask for a free battery health test. They have a system that will give you a quick answer prior to buying.
#12
Racer
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Agreed. I checked the ground cable. It's clean and tight, as well as all other battery connections.
Tried tapping the starter body while the wife cranked it, nothing but clicking.
Messed with the key as that was a recommendation.
Tried jump starting it from the 958, no luck.
Now have it on my small battery charger and to my surprise, it showed it at 25% charge. Can't imagine that happened from trying to start it yesterday. So letting it get a full charge in, and will attempt later today. If it starts, guess I need to consider battery and/or alternator at that point.
Will update in a few hours either way.
Tried tapping the starter body while the wife cranked it, nothing but clicking.
Messed with the key as that was a recommendation.
Tried jump starting it from the 958, no luck.
Now have it on my small battery charger and to my surprise, it showed it at 25% charge. Can't imagine that happened from trying to start it yesterday. So letting it get a full charge in, and will attempt later today. If it starts, guess I need to consider battery and/or alternator at that point.
Will update in a few hours either way.
#13
RL Community Team
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If you're at 25% charge, the battery is likely toast. It's not going to "come back" when discharged that low. I recommend replacing it.
A low battery can prevent the car from starting just as you describe... there's not enough current to turn the motor over in that state, so all you'll get is clicks...
A low battery can prevent the car from starting just as you describe... there's not enough current to turn the motor over in that state, so all you'll get is clicks...
#14
Racer
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Battery is still a possibility, but a confusing one if so as there was multiple starts in between the clicking while testing in the driveway yesterday morning before it finally said no more. So I'm struggling to understand how a dead battery could start the car twice, then not for a few attempts, then start it again. Followed by never again. lol
So yeah, I have no clue atm. Current meter reading at the posts now has the battery up to 13.2v while the charger is still flashing in the 75% range. This is up from a starting reading of 12v. I'm going to give it a few more hours as it should reach 13.5v I think by tonight. If it fails to start then, I'll remove and take to a battery shop for testing. Just would hate to drop $200 to find out the battery was fine. But let's be honest, either that battery, the alternator or the starter is going to need replacement. Just want to know which one it definitely is.
So yeah, I have no clue atm. Current meter reading at the posts now has the battery up to 13.2v while the charger is still flashing in the 75% range. This is up from a starting reading of 12v. I'm going to give it a few more hours as it should reach 13.5v I think by tonight. If it fails to start then, I'll remove and take to a battery shop for testing. Just would hate to drop $200 to find out the battery was fine. But let's be honest, either that battery, the alternator or the starter is going to need replacement. Just want to know which one it definitely is.
#15
Instructor
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Did you drive the car between starting/not starting attempts? A warm/hot starter requires more current than a cold one. Just speculation, or more likely, another totally useless fact to file away for later.