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Canbus adapter & Radio wiring adapter (The original one I ordered is no longer available which is a good thing because I would highly not recommend it)
Connector A - Read the notes attached at the bottom of the pdf.
Power and System Control Signals
A1 – Speed dependent Volume Control Input
A2 – +12V Switched Output
A3 – Telephone Mute Input
A4 – +12V Battery Power Input
A5 – +12V Switched Output (control output to power antenna)
A6 – Illumination Input
A7 – +12V Switched Input
A8 – Ground
Wiring inside my car
There are 3 wires here. Red/Green in slot 4 (+12V Battery Power Input), solid Yellow in slot 5 (+12V Switched Output (control output to power antenna)), solid brown in slot 8 (Ground)
Connector C
Auxiliary Control Signals - Read the notes attached at the bottom of the pdf.
C1 – CAN Bus High
C2 – CAN Bus Low
C4 – Wake up Signal
C7 – Telephone Audio Line In
C8 – Telephone Microphone In
C9 – Telephone Microphone In
C12 – Telephone Audio Line In
C20 – On/Off Input
Wiring inside my car.
There is 4 wires here. Green in slot 2. Blue/Black in slot 20. Yellow/Red in slot 16. Yellow/Blue in slot 19.
1. Red: ACC wire or ignition + wire
The ACC wire offers power/electricity only when you insert car key into ignition switch and turn it to the left
2. Yellow: 12V Battery (B+) wire or constant + wire
The 12V permanent battery wire will always offer power/electricity when the vehicle is turned on or off
3. Black: Ground wire
Black - Ground
Green - Parking Brake
Blue - Antenna or Amp turn on
When I did my wiring I did not use the Auxiliary Control Signals plug at all. But reading in the PDF, it looks like that pin 20 can be used as the delay to turn on/off things to eliminate the speaker pop when turning the car on/off?
7 – On/Off Input is the signal that is responsible for turning the CDR-24 on and off. The signal is a 10 second pulse at 10.5V, returning to 0V. No distinction is made between the “On” and “Off” pulses. A pulse is generated whenever the key is inserted or removed from the ignition. This signal should not be confused with a +12V ignition switched voltage.
So would I plug this into the sony radio to delay the turn on/off for it or would I use that pin on the fiber most adapter?
For Connector A
I wired the Brown (8) to the Black wire on the Most Adapter as well as the Black wire to the Sony Head Unit
I wired the Red/Green (4) to the Yellow wire on the Most Adapter as well as to the Yellow wire to the Sony Head Unit
The Yellow (5) is not wired to anything
Why must a wire be ran from the fuse box to power the head unit when the Red/Green is what was used to power the original unit?
I had this confusion about the wiring from the original unit. The 12v to the fuse box for me is purely for switched power, whilst the red wire from the harness is constant. For some reason there isn’t another switched power that I could find going to the back of the PCM (though there absolutely should be, and that yellow wire seems to do nothing).
It sounds like you have everything wired identically to mine, and it works perfectly.
Also, if you have an illumination you can tap off the harness that runs into the tunnel. CAI has the exact wire (I believe it was orange/white). Though with hindsight I would have skipped this and just used the stereo’s auto time-based dimming.
(This is on a 997 btw, came here from the other thread)
This looks and sounds way cheaper than the $600 plus kits out there. Any updates? I’ve owned my 987 for years and have been dying to upgrade my cdr-24 with Bose! I just won’t spend the money on a $600 to $800 kits for such a thing!
This looks and sounds way cheaper than the $600 plus kits out there. Any updates? I’ve owned my 987 for years and have been dying to upgrade my cdr-24 with Bose! I just won’t spend the money on a $600 to $800 kits for such a thing!
cheers hope everything’s works out
I have been driving around without a radio since I first posted. Been to hot here to even attempt anything outside. I am going to see the power that comes out of the Connector C20 plug and see if I can use that to eliminate the speaker pop. (Will wire that to the most adapter)
This looks and sounds way cheaper than the $600 plus kits out there. Any updates? I’ve owned my 987 for years and have been dying to upgrade my cdr-24 with Bose! I just won’t spend the money on a $600 to $800 kits for such a thing!
cheers hope everything’s works out
I recently installed a new head unit in my 06 911 using the
I recently installed a new head unit in my 06 911 using the same adapter ($96 sourced from Amazon for the two day shipping). No pop issues, everything works flawlessly. Installed a Pioneer W4660NEX with Wireless CarPlay.
No pop issue and no alternator whine? I might give that one a try. I can deal with the pop but the alternator whine is a bit much for me
Previously I had the C20 tied only to the most adapter, this causes speaker pop.
I tried the antenna power from the radio to turn on the most adapter while radio is tied to C20. Speaker pop happens.
I connected C20 to the radio and the most adapter, speaker pop is gone. The downside is that when you open the doors or trunks, the radio will come on for 10 seconds and then go off.
Connector A5 is to power the Antenna and gives up to 18v of power, I wouldnt recommend using this to power anything.
I cant deal with the alternator whine, I have tried grounding things different and no go. Will be purchasing the most adapter @Lawrencejuliano linked to.
@Lawrencejuliano Your wiring, did you power both the most and radio through the fuse box or did you use the C20 that I mentioned above?
I cant deal with the alternator whine, I have tried grounding things different and no go. Will be purchasing the most adapter @Lawrencejuliano linked to.
@Lawrencejuliano Your wiring, did you power both the most and radio through the fuse box or did you use the C20 that I mentioned above?
I powered the MOST & head unit through the fuse box (I believe it was C6 in my 997.1) for switched power and then took the 12v+ (constant) from the factory harness.
You don't really need the parking brake adapter with the Sony head units. You can just ground the parking brake wire to the harness ground and it will work the same.
I powered the MOST & head unit through the fuse box (I believe it was C6 in my 997.1) for switched power and then took the 12v+ (constant) from the factory harness.
I have tried both ways and still get the pop if I dont wire the headunit/adapter in the C20. I will toy around with it a bit more, thanks.
Originally Posted by av8bpilot
You don't really need the parking brake adapter with the Sony head units. You can just ground the parking brake wire to the harness ground and it will work the same.
I had already purchased the brake adapter, I never tried just grounding the wire but that is nice to know for anyone else going through this process!