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Hey Chris, so got to installing my head unit in today and this is what I did / results.
I can post links if anyone is interested.
i purchased a most adapter online about 100 clams, the plug and play harness with trim plate about $20.00 and the radio, $300 and the parking brake bypass thing $10
so around 450 clams total
im a tech by trade so all tools and electrical tools I already have. Tesa tape, solder crimps etc.
I chose the alpine ILX-650W it’s just a receiver it’s all I need and it has car play. All I need. Nothing fancy just a million times better than a CDR24...
I de pinned the 16pin harness adapter (987 to terminated wire) all you need is the 3 so I got rid of them. Power ant. B+ and B-. Ran a separate link For ACC to fuse 9 box C I believe for the factory phone.
I was too excited and since I wasn’t hacking factory loom added that was quick clean and simple. added the most adapter in with my loom B+, B- and ACC.
Also the parking brake bypass, built it into alpine harness and tesa taped it the loom up to keep it clean.
i forgot to mention I bought a usb to two use plug that will go into the center console where the factory outlet is that I have never used. One to charge her phone while mine is connected and charging to CarPlay. And the microphone I put in the stock location under the clam shell. Works okay there but not horrible.
so end result. It sounds great, looks great. No pop sound. Stays on with key in the ignition or ON like the CDR24 and I have full fade and balance control.
now is the most adapter I bought witch craft, hoodoo voodoo... maybe.. but it works no sacrifice just works.
The misses and I are going out of town to see Elliott of at The 944 Barn for Kaiaking and blood mountain in North GA so I’ll report after that. So far so good.
Hey Chris, so got to installing my head unit in today and this is what I did / results.
I can post links if anyone is interested.
Thats awesome I want this thread to be a reference point for people doing their radio install. Do you mind posting links (no affiliate links) to the products you purchased and if its not to much trouble a visual of how you wired everything?
I have some how managed to eliminate the speaker pop but just have the alternator whine now that is driving me crazy.
I’ll work on the schematic this weekend and I post up where from etc. my trip was canceled. So I’ll be home haha.
i got the bezel from Amazon. It was an accident purchase before I knew about the most adapter. So it says in the ad it’s for cars with Bose plug and play. Except it’s for cars with Bose that you’ll be removing. So.. I over paid. Amazon kit $100 everyone else $20. fit was way tight and needed some massaging but made it work.
and if anyone cares my 987- 07 987 S 3.4 car. I’m the second owner I purchased it just over 5 years ago at 60k It now has just over 108K. Only mods I’ve done is wheel spacers for the 19” lobsters, 987 cayman S rear bumper and wing, some carbon fiber interior parts, LED lights inside the cab, and now the stereo. Everything else is how it came optioned bi xenon headlamps,Sport steering wheel, factory SSK, sport seats, pasm, 19” lobsters, PSE, sport chrono, Bose, black exterior black interior.
Forgive my poor handwriting and not so straight lines if you have questions I’ll answer them haha.
on the RCA from the MOST to your headunit I cant remember if it was white to front and red to back or red front white to back. But test and see. I have full fade and balance control. I have the sport steering where so no controls there.
No affiliation, just links to sites I bought what used for my project.
Just search on amazon you’ll find what I used. I don’t know how to grab links for that.
bezel/ oem harness to terminated loom with antenna adapter and Bose amp harness to aftermarket amp, purchased on amazon but you can get these everywhere for 15 to 30 bucks Without the Bose deletion patch.
check your measurements all Double dibs aren’t the same. The one I purchased was by accident didn’t know i didn’t need it.
parking brake bypass- off amazon $10 any will do 3 wire
Male USB to 2 in 1 female USB one charge one data port. $12
headunit- Apline ILX-W650 with apple car play.
its just a receiver so no built in SAT NAV or CD player. So it’s chassis is super shallow. Like 3 inches or something like it’s less than half the size of the cdr24 so tons of room for all your loom and most adapter. Screen is instant and fast. I wanted a flat panel no button design so look more oem/ less discrete to wondering eyes wanting to slice my top for my radio. It also has XM plug in the back as well. And you can do backup camera and a front camera hook ups.
Whats in my schematic only shows what I installed and what I hooked up. I didn’t need / want a rear/front camera or XM. So I didn’t wire in the reverse wire. But I can post how to do so if you’d like.
i used the 12V outlet in the center console under the lid for my male USB that goes either in the headunit directly or just plug it into your usb extension the head unit came with like I did. I simple removed the center console removed the 12V outlet and routed my single USB Wire up through the console, some tesa tape and routing it with the oem harness on the console and you’re done.
I didn’t cut or splice or anything to OEM wires. One harness isn’t used when you unplug the CDR24 and I depinned the harness that plugs into the OEM harness that has the 3 wires containing B+ B- and power ant. To the Apline for simplicity and less bulk. You aren’t using but 3 wire out of like 16 so I got rid of them by de pinning so if I swap the radio out I can re pin the connector and install somewhere else.
hope this helps if you have questions ask away. Everything works, no buzz, no whine, No pops, no cutting of OEM wiring and full fade and balance control.
the bottom speakers don't work, just the tweeters, anyone else have this issue?
I had it all done, turned it on, didn't sound right, no sound on bottom speakers, figured they might be considered rear since no rears in the car, took it all out, wired up the rears that way, no luck.
hooked back in the original CDR24 to make sure I wasn't crazy and I'm not, sound comes out of the bottoms like it should, ideas?? Thx!
Maybe the CDR24 settings? I set mine to 20 volumn, and everything else at 0. Bass, treble, balance and fade. The most adapter RCA I used 1 in the front Out and 1 in the rear out.
I bought this adapter and it solved the alternator whine. I had previously grounded everything directly to the battery and still had the whine so it was a hardware problem. New adapter and the whine is gone.
83 944, a question about head units and MOST Fiber Optic Amp interface: the Interface vendor states "aftermarket radio must have the REMOTE ON feature to tell the factory amp to power on for sound output". Do most head units have this "REMOTE ON" feature? Secondlly, wasn't the MOST interface much more expensive ($200 - $300) in the past or is Avin a new product on the market? I seem to recall, the MOST interface costing more than an aftermarket head unit - making the entire installation very expensive. Lastly, if one has already paid for the Bose option, spending another $100 for the interface seems a bargain.
83 944, a question about head units and MOST Fiber Optic Amp interface: the Interface vendor states "aftermarket radio must have the REMOTE ON feature to tell the factory amp to power on for sound output". Do most head units have this "REMOTE ON" feature?
I cant help with this question, sorry
Originally Posted by TEF
Secondlly, wasn't the MOST interface much more expensive ($200 - $300) in the past or is Avin a new product on the market? I seem to recall, the MOST interface costing more than an aftermarket head unit - making the entire installation very expensive. Lastly, if one has already paid for the Bose option, spending another $100 for the interface seems a bargain.
There are some that are much more than that, like $600. You can find cheaper units on other sites but truthfully I would just go with the Avin unit. I had horrible alternator whine with the unit I bought from aliexpress. The Avin unit worked perfectly.
The last question doesnt make sense to me. Bose is the option for the car, you need the adapter for the aftermarket headunit to be able to work with the Bose amp.
Forgive my poor handwriting and not so straight lines if you have questions I’ll answer them haha.
on the RCA from the MOST to your headunit I cant remember if it was white to front and red to back or red front white to back. But test and see. I have full fade and balance control. I have the sport steering where so no controls there.
No affiliation, just links to sites I bought what used for my project.
Just search on amazon you’ll find what I used. I don’t know how to grab links for that.
bezel/ oem harness to terminated loom with antenna adapter and Bose amp harness to aftermarket amp, purchased on amazon but you can get these everywhere for 15 to 30 bucks Without the Bose deletion patch.
check your measurements all Double dibs aren’t the same. The one I purchased was by accident didn’t know i didn’t need it.
parking brake bypass- off amazon $10 any will do 3 wire
Male USB to 2 in 1 female USB one charge one data port. $12
headunit- Apline ILX-W650 with apple car play.
its just a receiver so no built in SAT NAV or CD player. So it’s chassis is super shallow. Like 3 inches or something like it’s less than half the size of the cdr24 so tons of room for all your loom and most adapter. Screen is instant and fast. I wanted a flat panel no button design so look more oem/ less discrete to wondering eyes wanting to slice my top for my radio. It also has XM plug in the back as well. And you can do backup camera and a front camera hook ups.
Whats in my schematic only shows what I installed and what I hooked up. I didn’t need / want a rear/front camera or XM. So I didn’t wire in the reverse wire. But I can post how to do so if you’d like.
i used the 12V outlet in the center console under the lid for my male USB that goes either in the headunit directly or just plug it into your usb extension the head unit came with like I did. I simple removed the center console removed the 12V outlet and routed my single USB Wire up through the console, some tesa tape and routing it with the oem harness on the console and you’re done.
I didn’t cut or splice or anything to OEM wires. One harness isn’t used when you unplug the CDR24 and I depinned the harness that plugs into the OEM harness that has the 3 wires containing B+ B- and power ant. To the Apline for simplicity and less bulk. You aren’t using but 3 wire out of like 16 so I got rid of them by de pinning so if I swap the radio out I can re pin the connector and install somewhere else.
hope this helps if you have questions ask away. Everything works, no buzz, no whine, No pops, no cutting of OEM wiring and full fade and balance control.
cheers,
Michael
Hello Michael, your schematic is really helpful! I'm not really far to plug successfully my new HU but could you confirm that power ant from the sony is the orange/white "illumination" as in the Sony manual?
fellas, I gotta mention, your posts were a TREMENDOUS help in my project over the last 2 days to get my new radio installed.
It would have been impossible to do so without your help.
Just wanted to add a contribution. Ive got a 987.1 and went the tap-a-fuse route instead of trying the CAI accessory wire route.
The fuse you tap into matters as well. I tried originally tapping into the radio (and other bits) fuse, I believe its either C or D9, and that one was "constant hot" so that did not work, unless I wanted my radio running full time.
I found a youtube video where a 987 install was mentioned using a 7.5 AMP fuse (B9) which was related to the car phone, and that worked for me.
I daisy changed Red from the radio harness, to Red from the most decoder, to the tap a fuse wire. I also wired in an an automotive grade detachable connector for red for my backup camera (in case it ever needs replacing, I want to be able to do so without cutting into the harness.
this was in process, with the parking brake bypass as well.
07-14-2020, 02:18 PM
this was in process, with the parking brake bypass as well.