shus2006croc

So step 1 is not complete:

A functioning battery.

So you can replace it or charge it.

Since it sounds like it is charged now to check the charge you will need a DVM....Digital Volt Meter. You will need to confirm the battery voltage....12.5 VDC min. to crank the starter. There is a routine for the car to reset the DME that you should read about but mostly it should for most systems reset. There are TONS of threads on batteries on this site but I will tell you running these cars with a low battery or bad alternator .....all types of funny things can happen. So take care of that first.

When you have the car running you will want to rule out alternator output....there are also tons of threads on this and you will....as you probably know take the engine cover off just to rule out the grounding points and the battery connection from the cable...an infamous corrosion point. You should also inspect the cables as well. Check them by ringing them out....continuity and resistance readings from your DVM.

If you don.t or can.t do these things yourself take it to a good Indy and have them replace your battery and check your charging system out. If your battery is bad I.d ger the AGM type...Costco has them now.

The bulbs in my opinion are the least of your issue at this point....IMHO.

Once this is done you can check for voltage drains and then trouble shoot the wires and bulbs.

It is true...you should lock your car when in the garage...it goes into sleep mode and draws a fraction if you don.t lock it.

SomnoBoost

Yes and no. The headlight switch was not turned on, but I had the headlights set to daytime running lights so they lights were set to come on upon starting the car. Because the battery was completely dead, I didn't think to turn off that setting when jumping the battery. Do you think this would burn both bulbs out? It certainly sounds possible.
Is there a way to check bulbs before I buy new ones? I've only changed headlights when I knew they were bad so there was no need to visually inspect them. I'm wondering if I can take out the bulb and see an indicator that it's dead.

FYI: The battery is fully charged. I'll be keeping it on the tender permanently now.

Kitc2246

If you have not already, review the YouTube on changing the bulb. I believe you should be visually able to see the filament in the bulb after you remove it. If you have an Ohm meter you can check for continuity. Considering this is the likely cause and work involved I'd buy an OEM equivalent pair of replacement bulbs. If for some reason this is not the problem you can return them.

deilenberger

If the bulbs in the car are more than a year old - what would be gained by not installing new bulbs when the lights are out? You're looking to save $20? Just put the new ones in, and store the old ones as spares, next to the outdated tire-filler-goop, something else you'll never need to use.

SomnoBoost

Very valid point. I am researching new bulbs. I'm a research junkie when it comes to buying anything so I haven't ordered any yet. I don't have any interest in upgrading systems but I do want the best bulb I can buy that doesn't cost an unreasonable price.