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Before hitting the track; we were able to bolt on our revised flat underbody cover (fits both .1 and .2, and is easier to install than our first revision).
Prototype Flat Underbody Panel bolted to Rear Diffuser
Our first track day with the 987 wasn't ideal. It was soaking wet and fairly cold. However, the car performed well overall and did great in the rain given how wet the track was. This was my first time driving the car. Before this, I had the 30-minute drive to the track to feel the car out. It definitely has some things we will be changing, namely suspension and brakes; but what a fun and quick car! No issues with cooling but it was cold out and we were not able to push the car. As you'll see in some of the images, the car is pitching backward quite significantly and this is due to the suspension. It is moving around quite a bit through the corners and we'll be addressing this moving forward. We expected this, but not to this extent haha. Below are some images and a video from the track day.
We currently do not have any plans to, yet. We are still working on recovering our initial R&D costs for our Porsche development (981 GT4 and 987). We are a small business (3 guys) and the development costs were quite high for a lot of the parts. While we would like to continue development, we also have to stay afloat! I hope you understand. It may be something we do in the future though.
I forgot two things in yesterday's post.
1) I have a cyclical, steering wheel shimmy at speeds above 65 MPH. I think it may be the entire car as I can feel it slightly surge while maintaining 70 MPH, but I can definitely feel it in the steering wheel. I'm going to start a thread on it to see if anyone else has had this before.
Things I have checked:
All wheels are tight (cannot feel any slop in any of the wheels/bearings, grabbing at 3 and 9, and 12 and 6, everything feels tight)
Did it with old wheels/tires
Does it with new wheels/tires
It got better with new wheels/tires but is still there
Things I am going to do:
Ask for wheels to be balanced again
Further check wheel bearings/suspension bushings
2) We have a 987.1 we purchased that had a blown motor and a salvaged title. We are parting it out. If anyone needs anything, please just shoot me a PM, or better yet, e-mail! 987 Disassembly
It has been a busy month for us but we were able to hit the track after work one day for steak night at the track. There is not a ton to report back on as we did not go fully prepared (no video equipment, data acquisition setup, etc). The car felt great in the dry; tons of grip! We are really excited to begin dialing it in. The one major take away from that track outing was that we could not lock up the brakes; so we need some new pads. We figured this was the case as it was a daily before this.
We did an install video over swapping pads and rotors.
While changing the brakes; I took the wheels to be re-balanced. One of the front wheels was 1 oz out, hoping that was the source of the vibration. I also thoroughly de-rusted both the new rotors and the hub to ensure axial runout is kept to a minimum and rust is not causing anything weird to happen.
Hub Comparison
Rotor Comparison
Added some stainless brake lines while we were at it to reduce spongy feeling in the brake pedal.
Front Stainless Line Rear Stainless Line
We built some brake pad sensor foulers as well as we do not need the warning sensor anymore.
Brake Pad Fouler Units
Our car needs a nice clean but it is ready to head to the track again soon! Indianapolis weather has been abnormally rainy which doesn't help with any testing.
Eric great post! Throw some GT3 brake ducts on the front (looks like you have the factory ones still), they're silly cheap from Suncoast. For rotors, Girodisc if you want to spend the money on quality rotors you can change the discs on. If you want to run cheap rotors, get some Sebro Slotted ones of amazon. They hold up rather well and are in the $300-$400 range for a complete set if I recall. Many of us have used the Ferodo DS1.11 with great success on track use as a comparable but less expensive option than the Pagid Yellows, and the DS1.11 has bit more bite than the RS29. That said, there are new kids on the block from Ferodo and Pagid. Pagid has a new Yellow called the RSL1 that has significantly more initial bite than the RS29. I loved the RSL1 on my Cayman R. That said, Ferodo just released their new RS3.12 and is getting raved about. Take a look at the Friction/Temperature graphs below. Curious to see how the rotors hold up to the 3.12, but everyone so far is loving them. They'll be my next pad.
The car cleans up pretty nicely for 87k miles and ~10 years old. The front bumper is the worst from rock chips.
So we headed to the track Thursday night to see if we could get the car to overheat and get a few more laps in. Unfortunately; our testing was cut short due to a coolant leak after about 20 minutes of lapping. I haven't fully determined if this is from a bum o-ring, the hose itself, or the plastic female section it slides into. However, it does look like it was leaking for a while before it fully let go.
So we'll be fixing this as quickly as we can.
We also plan to install laser ride height sensors and a gear oil temp sensor since the car is down for a few weeks. This will enable us to see all temperatures (coolant, engine oil, PDK fluid, and gearbox) as well as help us make suspension decisions, how the car is behaving on track, and deduct downforce on track.
Enjoying keeping up with your thread! I recently got a 987.2 CS with PDK also
Did yours have an LSD stock or open diff? Curious as mine has the open diff and I cooked the fluid on my first full day. I know some is my driving and adapting to the new car but have read a lot of threads seeing it's common on the open diff.
So, would love to see what y'all do for rear brake cooling and LSD
Enjoying keeping up with your thread! I recently got a 987.2 CS with PDK also
Did yours have an LSD stock or open diff? Curious as mine has the open diff and I cooked the fluid on my first full day. I know some is my driving and adapting to the new car but have read a lot of threads seeing it's common on the open diff.
So, would love to see what y'all do for rear brake cooling and LSD
Keep up the good work!
Nice choice!
Yes, we have an open diff on our shop car. We have overheated our trans once already after about 20-30 minutes of on-track time. We are trying to get data on this (temps from PDK *and* gear oil) before we attempt the fix so we fully understand what is going on. There are a few threads with BGB and LN going over the issues. It sounds like it is somewhat common for those that push the car on track and a few threads even mentioned it is difficult to keep the PDK cool in stock form for any longer than 20 minutes.
Below is a temp sensor we are installing to monitor with the AIM data acquisition.
Oil Cooler Fitting with Welded On Temp Sensor and Drain
Hole Cut in Underbody Panel for Easier Draining
OEM location where we ran wires into cabin
Looking closer at the coolant hose that was leaking; looks like something corroded the groove where the o-ring rides. A new hose and o-ring should resolve the leak!
Yes, we have an open diff on our shop car. We have overheated our trans once already after about 20-30 minutes of on-track time. We are trying to get data on this (temps from PDK *and* gear oil) before we attempt the fix so we fully understand what is going on. There are a few threads with BGB and LN going over the issues. It sounds like it is somewhat common for those that push the car on track and a few threads even mentioned it is difficult to keep the PDK cool in stock form for any longer than 20 minutes.
Below is a temp sensor we are installing to monitor with the AIM data acquisition.
Oil Cooler Fitting with Welded On Temp Sensor and Drain
Hole Cut in Underbody Panel for Easier Draining
OEM location where we ran wires into cabin
Looking closer at the coolant hose that was leaking; looks like something corroded the groove where the o-ring rides. A new hose and o-ring should resolve the leak!
Ah nice. I did add a PDK cooler last week but probably should have done temp gauge as you have also
I realize I didn't clarify in my post... I cooked the rear brakes not the PDK. Though I did just do the PDK cooler for the insurance
Watching this thread with great interest. I track my 2012 Cayman R PDK, I've had the BGB diff cooler for many years now, in addition to an LN deep sump, and a few other tricks to keep temps down. While I do not have PDK temp data, I have been tracking engine oil and coolant temps via an AIM solo tapped into the CAN bus. The combo of the BGB diff cooler + the LN deep sump have really help reduce engine oil temps, but I'd like to start tracking PDK gear oil temps as well. What temp sensor are you using?
Ah nice. I did add a PDK cooler last week but probably should have done temp gauge as you have also
I realize I didn't clarify in my post... I cooked the rear brakes not the PDK. Though I did just do the PDK cooler for the insurance
We have not had issues with our rear brakes yet. Our home track doesn't seem to be really hard on brakes so we may not see brake temps that necessitate cooling until we venture further away. Have you tried a higher temp pad compound?
Originally Posted by aldenatl
Car looks great, looking forward to keeping up with the progress!
Thanks!
Originally Posted by djm68
Watching this thread with great interest. I track my 2012 Cayman R PDK, I've had the BGB diff cooler for many years now, in addition to an LN deep sump, and a few other tricks to keep temps down. While I do not have PDK temp data, I have been tracking engine oil and coolant temps via an AIM solo tapped into the CAN bus. The combo of the BGB diff cooler + the LN deep sump have really help reduce engine oil temps, but I'd like to start tracking PDK gear oil temps as well. What temp sensor are you using?
Thanks,
DJM
We purchased a BGB diff cooler as well as the thread I read made it sound like the diff/gear oil was heating up the PDK oil. It made sense to me as the fluid volume in the PDK trans is so minimal, and the PDK has a cooler from factory. We'll know one way or the other soon since we have temps on both!
I think we may need the deep sump as well; we'll see as everything progresses and bugs begin to be worked out.
We are getting PDK temps from the Cobb AP we have. For gear/diff oil, we purchased a 2 wire temp sensor that is connected to our AIM unit. It isn't ideal, as one system doesn't read both; but it works.
We have not had issues with our rear brakes yet. Our home track doesn't seem to be really hard on brakes so we may not see brake temps that necessitate cooling until we venture further away. Have you tried a higher temp pad compound?
Running Friction One currently. I do know I need to change my driving style from a front engine to a mid engine car. That should help
05-20-2019, 09:16 PM
