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It's over 15 years since we drove the area, so we're keen to get back!
Originally Posted by TEF
As I've remarked in the past, your road tours feature the true nature of Japan. Frequently, any mention of Japan always centers on Tokyo and, more often than not, that stock footage of Shibuya crossing. Keep up the good work.
Though, I am too guilty of that, in my defense, I have been looking for a 'Japanese' environment not too far from home to shoot sometimes.
Our apartment is in Shibuya, and I sometimes commute through the crossing, so it's an easy ask...
I was however disappointed to see all the standard cliches (all of them) traipsed out for the gaijin hordes in the first ep of Tokyo Vice this week.
Hopefully, they can get back to the otherwise good story, without resorting to more lazy tropes.
The crossing, hopefully looking less cliched and more legit?
Heading West on a similar shoot.
Yamate-dori at the extent of Shibuya.
The S800 is small, but not that small next to a Pious.
Bogan donk just up from the crossing.
We prefer though, the open road.
Stopping for fat toast at a little cafe in the middle of nowhere.
Milky coffee, rich butter, and jam - the Japanese version of a 'Western' breakfast, all for 400 yen!
Originally Posted by TEF
Your photo of the konbini,made me think about how significant convenience stores are in urban and rural Japan. Oddly, three of the most popular: 7/11, Lawson and Family Mart are not native to Japan. Most of us are familiar with 7/11 and know its origins in the US. Family Mart started in Korea and is popular all over Asia. Lawson came from an obscure Ohio-based chain of dairy stores centered around Cleveland and western PA. From what I can tell, Lawson vanished in the '80 in the US, but the Japanese seemed fascinated by the company's name and signage. In fact, they purchased both and transported, without change, to Japan. I remember living in Japan in the mid '90s and seeing Lawson and thinking where have I've seen that store before? It turns out that there had been several stores in my small city in PA. A former Lawson storefront is located near my house and it evokes thoughts of Japan every time I drive pass it.
I did not know the Lawson Station story, so thanks!
That's pretty neat, as the milk churn signs and colors, are now part of the Japanese landscape.
At least on Honshu... as other names (if not owners) prevail on Hokkaido and similar, giving a Tokyo-ite the feeling we really are not in Kansas any more...
7/11 though are aware of their role in rural areas too, and while selling stuff is obviously the main reason, they also show some CSR.
Here, a suitably plated konbini delivers essentials to rural areas, where the old cannot perhaps get out as easily.
The drivers though, are not just there to sell, but to talk to the neighbors and give nutritional advice to older locals.
I did think his basket stack, in our village of three homes, a little optimistic...
I think Mini Stop is a different flavor Lawson.
This day, we took a run to Yokohama Chinatown, as we needed some roast pork sauce supplies (too many years in HK got us addicted to Lee Kum Kee).
I always enjoy watching the Cayman get zinged away in a parking stacker.
Kuro Neko,
Your mention of Tokyo Vice brings up a recent conversation with my son (who spent 10 years in Toko and speaks some Japanese0 about one of the show's episodes. He noted that one scene takes place in the very Frank-Lloyd-Wright looking lobby of the Okura Hotel. Given that was traditionally the venue used by the White House Press, I spent a lot of time in that hotel during Presidential visits to Japan. The hotel always showed its appreciation by grossly over-charging us for use of its function space, I've not watched the series but should as it takes place during the time I lived there.
I spent a lot of time in that hotel during Presidential visits to Japan.
Ha!
I enjoyed that scene (shot in the new annex I would guess), as I used to be a company paid regular at the Okura during those years.
The Highlander Bar was my favorite for a late night drink... and though before my time there, I can share stories about the night H.W. dropped in (alone, except for one lurking agent), and when the Rolling Stones thought they were bigger than some locals.
We used to have casual meetings in the grand foyer.
Early morning start, with the sun coming up over our valley.
The canyons of Kojimachi.
Pre-Covid, I used to see a white 928 at this same crossing a few times a week, and I am still hoping to catch a snap.
Even with light traffic, I prefer Shinjuku on my Yamaha.
But, the Cayman for the commute to Otemachi wasn't too bad, just not sure 6800円 a day parking is a good deal.
The Maxam is 500円, so that's better than the train, if you do not mind getting wet and cold sometimes.
One for the Pink Floyd fans; He always ate in the steak bar, He loved to drive in his Jaguar...
Japanese interpretations being what they are, that Mitsuoka probably has an eight-track too (with integrated Bluetooth and Android Auto).
Local volunteer fire station.
We had a false alarm a few months ago, and somehow the full brigade of five trucks, chief, and police all arrived in under ten minutes.
It was 02:00 in the morning... some members though, were still pulling on their pants when they got out of their trucks.
Local roads are good, except perhaps for the dreaded yellow line, and that kei equipped 40km/h oji-san.
Motor city.
Japanese cities typically have 'towns', where similar products and services are available from multiple outlets.
Motorcycle town, government town, kitchen town, electric town, ski town, book town... etc.
Our apartment in Tokyo is near pet hospital town.
This is Kamogawa's car town, just next to its electric town on the same road.
Convenience is key, and it makes cross-shopping easier.
Peak hour commute.
No center line.
No passing, and a bit squeamish sometimes on soft compound Michelin when you meet on-coming traffic.
Thank you for the Okura photos, they are really well done. My only experience with HW was seeing him in Colombia when he attended a conference on "The War on Drugs". Relative to the problems now faced, it's hard to believe that was America's major focus at the time.
Funny that you should know so much about a place that was not a household choice for most foreigners. However, I did note that the clientele was largely older (and richer, I presume) Japanese. When they arrived at the desk, it appeared that they were known to the staff, It was like the hotel of choice for those with "old" money. Correspondingly the hotel seemed to make a point of being very Japanese.
On another subject. In looking at your Cayman, it appears that you're not a guy to "mod" a car. However, a thread on a 981 forum got me thinking about Ray's engineering and Volks wheels. One member posted a photo of his 981 Cayman with 18" Volks wheels and it was amazing. Of course, they are very expensive, but, in my opinion, the best around. Had the OE versions on my 350z. Compared to the standard Nissan wheels, these are forged and were so light and strong. One could feel the difference when accelerating. Just wondering if you have seen any local Porsche's using Volks wheels and are they less expensive there (then outside of Japan)?
Funny that you should know so much about a place that was not a household choice for most foreigners. However, I did note that the clientele was largely older (and richer, I presume) Japanese. When they arrived at the desk, it appeared that they were known to the staff, It was like the hotel of choice for those with "old" money. Correspondingly the hotel seemed to make a point of being very Japanese.
It was 100m walk from the hotel to my office, so it was an easy choice when deciding what hotel to use!
Who wants to use a taxi when you can walk, and get 'home' after late night calls that easy?
Originally Posted by TEF
In looking at your Cayman, it appears that you're not a guy to "mod" a car. However, a thread on a 981 forum got me thinking about Ray's engineering and Volks wheels. One member posted a photo of his 981 Cayman with 18" Volks wheels and it was amazing. Of course, they are very expensive, but, in my opinion, the best around. Had the OE versions on my 350z. Compared to the standard Nissan wheels, these are forged and were so light and strong. One could feel the difference when accelerating. Just wondering if you have seen any local Porsche's using Volks wheels and are they less expensive there (then outside of Japan)?
HA!
I have a few mods on my S - the OEM R aero from the original owner, first-gen S wheels, Sports Design paddle steering wheel, Spyder side vents, and some OEM Alcantara last week:
But, in wanting to get rid of the chore of washing the 20-spoke 19-inch wheels, and get a bit more sidewall for rougher roads, I did look at the 18-inch TE37s.
They look pretty neat, and I think there's a few 987 on such in the pages above.
They are however, pricy in Japan too at 150,000円 each new, or maybe 400,000円 a set second hand.
The OEM Ronal S wheels, with a few hundred km on them were 50,000円.
Not a difficult choice!
Plus, I get that classic five-spoke Fuch-like look.
In regards to your foffice being about 100 meters from the Okura, I am wondering how close you might have been either to the US Ambassador residence or the US Embassy itself? Curiously, about what year was this? I was at the embassy from 1997 through 2001. BTW, did you know that the US Ambassador's residence is where MacArthur lived in the post WWII era and from there he ran Japan until it (actually the Americans) wrote its constitution? Despite the fact that this constitution was, for all purposes, forced on Japan, they have not changed much (if any) in the last 70 years. And that ends my history lesson.
As for the TE37, they are do look nice, but 150000 yen each! I seem to recall those same wheels for the 350Z selling here for much less new and used. Manufactures seem to have a special price for all things Porsche.
I was at Shiroyama Hills from 1997 to 2001, Tokyo is a big city!
Originally Posted by TEF
BTW, did you know that the US Ambassador's residence is where MacArthur lived in the post WWII era and from there he ran Japan until it (actually the Americans) wrote its constitution? Despite the fact that this constitution was, for all purposes, forced on Japan, they have not changed much (if any) in the last 70 years. And that ends my history lesson.
I wasn't aware of Mac's residence in Toranomon (just the GHQ ref buried above somewhere I think), so that's interesting.
The map from the time is pretty funny.
I get to drive my Cayman from my apartment near Washington Heights (ha ha), down Avenue F, to my office off 1st Avenue:
Not that I am a Mac otaku; but I have seen his desk, chair, and a pipe, still in the Daiichi Building, and worked on his previous GHQ in Collins Street Melbourne - the one he occupied after wading into the water in the Philippines, famously declaring, 'I shall return...'
He was of course correct, and we are better for it as a result (most would argue anyway).
As to history lessons, those who do not study it, are condemned to repeat it.
Watching events unfold again in Europe, this could yet impact us all... and with no excuses, why this is relevant to us all.
You do know your history and MacArthur. You're correct about the headquarters building, however, he lived in what is now the US Ambassador's residence. If one follows the wall fronting the US Embassy entrance up the hill towards the Hotel Okura, one will encounter another gate (across the street from hotel). That is the entrance to the ambassador's residence. Aside from being MacArthur's residence, it also was the site of one of Japan's surrenders at the close of the war. It is also the place that MacArthur summoned the emperor at war's end. In this meeting, he offered the emperor the choice of supporting a peaceful occupation or face charges for war crimes. From what I understand, the decision to spare the emperor was regarded by the Japanese as an unexpected act of humanity and ingratiated MacArthur to the population. So much so, that I am told that when his vehicle passed them on the street, they would bow to him.
While completely accidental, my assignments in Asia seemed to revolved around MacArthur. My first assignment was in Manila and later Seoul. The Philippines represented his earlier career, Japan the middle and Korea ended it when fired by Truman.
As I recall, Washington Heights was the site of a large US Army base. While not 100% sure of this, upon the closure of that base, the area was used by Japan as the venue for 1964 Tokyo Olympics.
I've got to share that street map with my son. He knows the area well and he'll get a chuckle at the Western street names.
@TEF - Yes indeed Washington Heights was a large US Army base. I started kindergarten in the on-base elementary school towards the end of the Occupation and went trick-or-treating on those streets with my new-found best friends. Japan was VERY different back in those days.
Thanks for your input about Washington Heights. Not sure if you've ever returned to Japan in recent times, but the Harajuku area around Washington Heights is one of the trendiest of Tokyo. Sort of its Rodeo Drive with lots of boutiques and coffee shops.
Apparently we both experienced life as military-dependent children. Mine was with base schools at Loring AFB in northern Maine. Harajuku is clearly the better location. Regarding trick or treating, in those days young children would have had nothing to fear on the streets of Japan. Even today, one sees very young (and small children) with giant leather backpacks riding the subways to primary school. There is a lot to be said about Japanese culture.
That's some great history of the area, thanks both.
Living in Hong Kong, when we were planning our move, we gave our kids the choice of which area in Tokyo they wanted to live - 'Harajuku!', was the reply from our teenage daughter.
We had a house, then an apartment in Shibuya since... for the reasons you both note.
Including Trick-and-Treating.
As you note, Washington Heights was cleaved by the continuation of what was then Yoyogi Street, and they built the above for the 1964 Games.
Here, undergoing a refit in prep for the 2020/1 games.
The Tange stadium and Cayman photograph above (and a McLaren pic, many pages before I think) were taken at the red dot on this map.
It's worth the load time to zoom around in Tokyo in 1948.
Can you see where your base accommodation was?
There must be a trove of period pics available somewhere on the internet.
One of the best artifacts from this time in Tokyo is this clip.
Filmed by a GI crew with a snappy Jeep-mounted Eyemo I think, it gives little indication what Ginza and similar would become over the next 20 years.
I mention 'towns' above, and a few weeks ago I explored one of the many 'taxi town' at the blue dot on the same map.
Built in the post-War Show period, it has some great buildings and interesting lanes.
Like train drivers in some places, some drivers live on-site, in those little boxes.
Glass bricks - Showa-era kakoii...
997 tucked away, next to the old Hatsudai River.
The shopping lady is walking over the old bridge, but the river is below the pavement.
You can see the old river marked on the same map too.
Sloped tops, supposedly to allow sunlight into the lower streets.
Long-gone initiative, with taller buildings overtaking this.
Lovely rust?
One of the few remaining public telephones in the area...
@ Kuro Neko - Lest I be accused of impersonating an Army brat, I was just a refugee kid whose family fled China in 1949 (for obvious reasons). During the Occupation, the US Army’s elementary school in Washington Heights was even open to us random non-military kids of the Western persuasion, hence my experience of that area of Tokyo. Our first house was in Senzoku and was the only standing house on the block - as a kid, I thought it was really COOL to play in the surrounding rubble, despite my parents’ reprimands. Later we moved to a large 1930s era mansion, in Denenchofu, just where the terrain started to drop to the Tamagawa, surrounded by rice fields (in Denenchofu ! - hard to imagine today). Magnificent views over the Tamagawa! After we had left Tokyo, I heard that some South American country had taken over “our” mansion as their embassy. About a dozen years ago I returned to Tokyo to find the old mansion. Of course it was long gone with the area now a small grassy park. There was a small group of horticulturalists working on the grounds, so I showed them the 1950s photos of the house to elicit any history. They went crazy. Not that they were interested in this nutso gaijin asking about an old house. They were just running around, excitedly pointing out the specific existing trees that appeared in the old photos of the mansion. How Japanese.
Last edited by SCMike; 04-30-2022 at 08:39 AM.
Reason: Stupid spell checker
The Japanese have adopted some Western traditions, but often with their own spin. Christmas Eve is one example used by dating couples to spend the night together and (for some reason) to eat cake. Another one is Halloween and trick or treating. The latter seems recent - perhaps since the '90's. It was one of the only times that embassy security was relaxed and Japanese parents and children were allowed into the housing compound. Despite being there with their children, the parents were very nervous and timid at the thought of being amongst all of those crazy Americans.
For those of us living in the North America and not experiencing the ravages of WWII, it was surprising to me to see the long-term affects of allied and axis bombing. When I was 10, we moved to Lincolnshire England and I recall my Catholic grade school (located in an old great house) still showing evidence of a bombing years after war's end. Where some of the brick outbuildings stood were just piles of bricks. Also the nearby town had vacant lots in its industrial areas where factories once existed. However, our little group of American kids had an entire abandoned US air base (RAF Sturgate) as a forbidden play ground. It had not been closed for long, so we were able to get into the control tower and turn on the runway lights.
04-08-2022, 09:08 PM
