fhp911

Re stock pads -- I found that when I used stock pads on the track that pad material would get deposited on the rotors and cause horrible vibration. This issue went away ever since I used track pads.

Re track pads -- I leave them in (PFC) all the time. They do squeal a bit but not much.

Re track fluid -- I only use track fluid now but back when I was 'coming up' I used stock fluid and it only caused problems on tracks with lots of straights followed by slow corners (eg, Pocono infield). I never had any problems at Lime Rock which has no slow corners.

If my Plan was to leave the car alone as much as possible, I'd leave it alone except for the track pads (and fluid, in spite of what I said above -- different fluid hardly qualifies as 'modifying' the car.) And I'd be sure to get max negative camber in the front -- as other posters have said you'll chew up the outsides of your types very quickly.

khooni

thanks guys.

For harnesses, I want a setup like the RS using the 6 point scroth belts.

Thanks for the link. I suppose the top belts just loop around the standard roll hoop?

I am gonna find a shop that will be able to install everything for me as well as set up the alignment. 2.5 degrees front and rear sounds wicked. Sounds like front and rear LCAs are all I need. Anyone installed the droplinks?

Thing is the spyder is just so easy to drive quickly. Shame about the PSM though, I can't seem to trail brake and stomp on the gas without triggering it.

khooni

Thanks. I am using stock PCCBs and they stop incredibly. Not as well as my RS but it could be down to the cup tires. I do get a bit of squealing from my rear brakes after every track day though. So far I have no complains and wear is pretty even front and back. We'll see how many more track days I can use them on before they wear out (of course with pad changes when down to 50% thickness).

I use standard porsche brake fluid but i think Porsche actually does have an approved track brake fluid. I'll find out more at my next oil change in a month.

zedcat

If you have sport buckets you can get the Schroth profi gt3 harness. The lap belts have the sewn in eyelets that mount to the seats.

If you use a HANS suggest look closely at the shoulder harness geometry. According to the Schroth instructions the shoulder harness has to be horizontal or down up to 20 deg from the top of the shoulders to the roll bar/ harness bar. I was going to put 6 points in a 986 boxster but the stock roll hoops cross bar was too high. I don't know if that's the case with the 987 spyder.

I just ordered gt3 LCAs for my CR. I had extreme wear and chunking of the outsides of a set of MPSS after 10 track days. My tech also advised rear adjustable toe links, so I'm looking at the Tarret parts for those.

the_vetman

Top belts, yes. Most guys just loop them through the stock roll bars. Works great.

Adjustable drop links: you'll need them if you have adjustable sway bars, e.g. Tarrett, TPC, etc. If H&R or stock sway bars, well... it depends on who you ask. I have stock drop links and H&R sway bars. When I asked my Porsche indy (w/ 10+ years of racing experience in IMSA and NASCAR) about bump steer kit and drop links, he said "why? Stock droplinks work. That's the thing about these AM parts... Some guy comes up with a fancy kit and tells everyone that they NEED them, and of course charges $400 for them. Most people don't need them."

Note that you can bend the thin stock drop links. If you do, then perhaps look at AM droplinks. I've never bent stock drop links, though some others have. Toe links to get rid of the stock eccentric toe links that can get knocked out of alignment - same thing. If you keep knocking it out of place then maybe you need the AM ones. If not, you may or may not wan to save your money.

If you're an actual racer going 10/10ths out on the track and fighting for the last 0.1 sec, then the above may not apply to you. But we're not all at that level yet (myself included). Too easy to get wrapped up in what we ALL NEED.....

khooni

Thanks I do have the sports buckets on the spyder.

jabo

In order to mount 5 or 6 point harnesses on those seats, you will still need to buy an anti-submarine bar to mount the straps that go under the seat.
The shoulder belts can be wrapped around the roll bar behind the seat, and the waist straps mount to the existing bolts for the seatbelts.

Brey-Krause is just one of the makers of the anti-submarine bar. Installing them will require you to unbolt your seats and take them out of the car first.
The part number is different for the driver's and passenger seats, and they are in fact differently shaped parts.

Be very careful when removing the seats from the sliders, as the sliders have powerful springs that can release uncontrollably. Protect your eyes.

khooni

Thanks Jabo.
Vetman provided this info. For the stock Gt2 seats, does this mean I don't need the tunnel side mount and outer side mounts since they bolt up to the seat? I would like to stick with the GT3 clubsport 6-point arrangement for harness belts as I find them comfortable and easy to use.

the_vetman

That's correct. You don't need the mounts since lap belts bolt to seat belt attachments. However, I've discovered that the lap belts get in your way, dig into your hips, get in the way of stock seat belts, etc., when not in use. So what I'm looking to do is put latch ends on lap belts then attach them to the aforementioned mounts during DEs then take them off in-between. One of those things that can be helpful if you drive it on the street.

khooni

AH.. it doesn't bother me in the RS at all. Hmmm. It's good to know that all i need to replicate the Clubsport setup is sinply the profi 3 harness and the sub-bar mount. And when I do sell the car, It's easily reversible if need be. Thanks

orthojoe

Khooni,

Sorry for the late response. I'm out of town on vacation and have limited Internet access.

Like everyone said, I use the BK sub mount bars and I'm happy with them.

In regards to PCCB, I'm happy I got rid of them. I can't feel the weight difference, and my lap times dropped because of the ability to run track compound pads. I'm using the brembo type III rotors and the pfc08 pads on all 4 corners. The pads work well, but they don't have as much bite (but more than oem p40) as I would have expected for a track pad. I've used raybestos st43 and project mu club racer pads on my other cars and those pads have more bite. PCCB rotors serve no purpose.

Hope that helps.

khooni

No problem. Thanks Joe.

How about fade? The stock PCCBs have been awesome for 20 min sessions so far for me and i can really lean on them. If you can't feel the weight difference and actually have improved times then they must work for you. I'll keep on running them until the end of this track season and evaluate but so far other than squeaky rear brakes I have nothing to complain about.

orthojoe

No problems with fade. Our PCCBs calipers and rotor sizes along with light weight chassis make overheat and fade a non issue no matter what the track, temps, and duration. My sessions are 20-25 minutes. Laguna Seca is a brutal track for brakes. No issues, not even smoking brakes.

This is the only car I've ever tracked where the brakes never smoke after a session. The heat capacity in our oversized rotors and calipers are a nice thing to have.

khooni

Completely OT

but ever since I looked at a Lotus ExigeS v6 in person. I have been thinking about swapping the spyder for it........

It comes in a Cup spec. IE harness/motorport cage/ track pack/cup tyres

as focused as an RS without the associated running cost and more importantly, road legal, for us folks that don't trailer our cars.

what do you guys think?

orthojoe

If you've got an RS as a track car already, why not keep the spyder for good weather weekend fun? Exige is another track car that won't be as fun as an RS, I think. Btw, I have a friend that bought a lotus as a track toy. It lasted 3 track days before it caught on fire. The car is now gone.