Got it!
#46
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PCCB pads also cost much more than OEM or track pads. I believe they're over $700 for the fronts on GT3s.
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#47
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Switch to the red S/Spyder calipers and save the yellow PCCB calipers. You can sell PCCB with calipers for very nice pocket change (money back for the sport bucket pain
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
You'll also save money on (smaller) track pads and iron rotors. IMO you'll not lose much noticeable braking performance by going to smaller rotors and 4-piston calipers. I use Pagid Yellows front & back with stock rotors and they work great. One Chief Instructor actually told me he was surprised how late into the braking zone I could take it before (threshold-) braking.
One last thing: get Sebro slotted rotors. At least for the front. Stock "cross drilled" rotors (I'm told they're not actually drilled) crack quickly from track usage. Most people don't seem to have problems with cracking the rears but YMMV.
Of course, all this changing will mess up the info that Steve requested...
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#48
Nordschleife Master
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Another option you can consider
:
Switch to the red S/Spyder calipers and save the yellow PCCB calipers. You can sell PCCB with calipers for very nice pocket change (money back for the sport bucket pain
) or save the calipers for when you later put them back on (since they'll get nicked and discolored from track usage).
You'll also save money on (smaller) track pads and iron rotors. IMO you'll not lose much noticeable braking performance by going to smaller rotors and 4-piston calipers. I use Pagid Yellows front & back with stock rotors and they work great. One Chief Instructor actually told me he was surprised how late into the braking zone I could take it before (threshold-) braking.
One last thing: get Sebro slotted rotors. At least for the front. Stock "cross drilled" rotors (I'm told they're not actually drilled) crack quickly from track usage. Most people don't seem to have problems with cracking the rears but YMMV.
Of course, all this changing will mess up the info that Steve requested...
And my apologies if I've just regurgitated a whole bunch of crap that you already know!! ![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Switch to the red S/Spyder calipers and save the yellow PCCB calipers. You can sell PCCB with calipers for very nice pocket change (money back for the sport bucket pain
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
You'll also save money on (smaller) track pads and iron rotors. IMO you'll not lose much noticeable braking performance by going to smaller rotors and 4-piston calipers. I use Pagid Yellows front & back with stock rotors and they work great. One Chief Instructor actually told me he was surprised how late into the braking zone I could take it before (threshold-) braking.
One last thing: get Sebro slotted rotors. At least for the front. Stock "cross drilled" rotors (I'm told they're not actually drilled) crack quickly from track usage. Most people don't seem to have problems with cracking the rears but YMMV.
Of course, all this changing will mess up the info that Steve requested...
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
Interesting that you like the pagid yellow RS29s. Many people have said they are great up until you reach the halfway point, where the start to perform poorly. Have you noticed this at all? The poster child right now appears to be the PFC08s, which is what I will be going for.
#49
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Given that the large 350mm steel rotors will definitely be significantly heavier, I have contemplated doing such a thing. I'll be going girodisc slotted rotors, regardless. The ricer in me loves the look of the 6 piston calipers, though. I also worry about the paint fading/cracking, but maybe with the larger size calipers/rotors, heat won't be as bad?
Interesting that you like the pagid yellow RS29s. Many people have said they are great up until you reach the halfway point, where the start to perform poorly. Have you noticed this at all? The poster child right now appears to be the PFC08s, which is what I will be going for.
Interesting that you like the pagid yellow RS29s. Many people have said they are great up until you reach the halfway point, where the start to perform poorly. Have you noticed this at all? The poster child right now appears to be the PFC08s, which is what I will be going for.
LOL about the ricer comment.
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The heat will definitely be your enemy once you start going with track pads (Pagids, PFC, Endless, etc.). I'd avoid Pagid Blacks for this reason. I believe you have GT3 brake ducts in the front. You should look into getting brake ducts for the rear. You'll have to modify some other model's to get to fit on 987s. With time, the red calipers turn dark red then brown... our tech chair apparently calls them brownbos.
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Interesting what you said about Pagid RS29s (what I run). I've been running them for over 20 days and never noticed such behavior. I wasn't really paying attention either, but such behavior didn't jump out and become noticeable - at least not to me. I've personally never heard anyone describe them that way, but maybe I just haven't heard the sentiment. Finally, Pagid Yellows are what numerous professional teams run... a pretty good endorsement.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I wonder if the sentiment has to do with the brake fluid (pad gets thinner and transfers more heat to the caliper, etc.) or if RS29s degrade more quickly once they start getting thin. Interesting..
In any case, PFC08 or 06 seem to be very good pads and I'm probably going to try them as my next set. One instructor has commented that he thinks Pagids are "overrated and overpriced"; he prefers PFC instead. For my stock size application, a set of front and rear PFCs will be about $60 less than a set of RS29s. It's not all that much money but it all adds up when you get several sets over time, I guess.
#50
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Here are threads about fitting rear brake ducts on 987s (don't worry, 981 folks, you already have them
):
996 turbo/GT2 rear brake ducts:
http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...ake-ducts.html
Better pics here but you need to be a PCA member to register and view:
http://caymanregister.org/showthread...ar+brake+ducts
997 turbo ducts (post #17 and later):
http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...-r-setups.html
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
996 turbo/GT2 rear brake ducts:
http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...ake-ducts.html
Better pics here but you need to be a PCA member to register and view:
http://caymanregister.org/showthread...ar+brake+ducts
997 turbo ducts (post #17 and later):
http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...-r-setups.html
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#51
Nordschleife Master
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Thanks for the info, vet. I'll look into getting some rear brake ducts since I'll be generating more heat now with steels and track pads.
As far as rotors go, I only have one option when it comes to replacements for the PCCB sized rotors on my car, and that's girodisc. Ben has had pretty good luck with the girodiscs, so hopefully it will be the same for me.
As far as rotors go, I only have one option when it comes to replacements for the PCCB sized rotors on my car, and that's girodisc. Ben has had pretty good luck with the girodiscs, so hopefully it will be the same for me.
#52
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Thanks for the info, vet. I'll look into getting some rear brake ducts since I'll be generating more heat now with steels and track pads.
As far as rotors go, I only have one option when it comes to replacements for the PCCB sized rotors on my car, and that's girodisc. Ben has had pretty good luck with the girodiscs, so hopefully it will be the same for me.
As far as rotors go, I only have one option when it comes to replacements for the PCCB sized rotors on my car, and that's girodisc. Ben has had pretty good luck with the girodiscs, so hopefully it will be the same for me.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
You're about the rotor sizes. When I said switching to stock rotors, I'd meant switching out wheel bearings/carriers as well. Can be done but don't know about the cost.