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Here's the contents of the Suncoast kit I bought several years ago. Everything fit perfectly with my 2014 Boxster S w/PDK.
PK981RADIATOR RADIATOR KIT
2 999-073-220-09 TAP SCREW 4. 2
3 991-106-638-02 RADIATOR HOS 1
4 991-106-639-01 RADIATOR HOS 1
5 999-507-246-01 SPEED NUT 2
6 991-106-537-01 RUBBER MOUNT 2
7 991-106-538-02 RUBBER MOUNT 2
8 900-377-010-01 HEXAGON NUT 4
9 991-106-237-01 RETAINING FR 1
10 991-106-337-01 SEALING FRAM 1
11 991-106-137-02 RADIATOR, CE 1
12 981-505-569-01-1E0 RETAINING FR 1
13 981-575-141-00-1E0 AIR DUCT 1
I believe 981-575-141-00-1E0 is the part you're looking for.
Note: If you look at the installation pictures on the Schnell Autosports blog... The pics of the radiator mounted show the radiator being installed backward. The radiator has a rim edge around it that goes to the front. The ducting snaps onto the rim on the front of the radiator. The bottom of the radiator pulls forward to latch onto the bushings. The top pushes in.
@ledbette that part shows Cayman only, and in pics the bottom is wider than the top, while the S center bumper is wider at the top than the bottom. Yet it still works despite all that?
The 4th set of digits differentiates between Boxster and Cayman. Boxster is 00. If you have a different set of digits, that's for the Cayman. They have a couple different Cayman variants.
Most of the online places I've seen do not list any fitment for the 00 part, only for the Cayman variants which start with 08 and up.
I finally was able to install and test my 3rd radiator during a track event this weekend. Overall very good results but few challenges I had to overcome and still not 100% done I would say.
The installation is pretty straight forward with no issues. I decided to remove the fender lines in order to help disconnect electric plugs behind headlights and the headlight washer. The most "challenge" part was to get the 4 cuts on the spoiler ... just took some time.
Now the interesting part was actually bleeding the system as I decided to replace the coolant. I drain coolant from main houses that goes to the engine and couple drains under the engine. Need to use vacuum system which I did. Got around 20-22 psi of vacuum which is good and allowed me to add ~ 1.5 gal. after I used PIWIS 3 to bleed the system. had initial failure as my AC was running. I had to repeat the process which was completed successfully. Drove around for 30 min and all good. Let it cool down ... next day I top if off and went to my event.
During my second section I got a red warning on dashboard that water fluid was low. As I monitor my real coolant temp using SOLO DL2 ... was around 215-220F I went back to pit lane and refill with ~ 1L ... it was hot so I knew more coolant would be required later. No more warning messages ... completed my event with no issues. Engine oil max ~ 260F and trans ~ 245F what is pretty good as I was running pretty good laps.
Next day I was able to add 1L and thought that would be sufficient to completely fill the system. But guess what it wasn't. Drove back from my event next day with engine cool was able to add ~ 0.5L.
I am just amazed how much coolant goes on this system and even after the PIWIS procedure still required ~ 2.5L of coolant.
Now still checking but seems level is stable ... want to track again to make sure dont have more air pockets in the system.
Bottom line bleeding on this car is tricky and requires attention. Keep coolant next to you after driving after bleeding just in case.
I pinched the side hoses to avoid losing coolant from the system during install. After attaching one hose between the center radiator and one side radiator, I removed that pinch clip. I then tilted the other end of the center radiator up and filled the center radiator with 50/50 coolant blend then attached the second hose and removed the second clip. Finally, I mounted the radiator. I was about a half gallon low at that point.
The coolant system will self-bleed when it warms up, but you have to be careful not to overheat due to the air bubbles in the system.
I warmed the engine up to operating temp by driving up and down the street in my neighborhood a few times. Once the engine got to operating temp and opened the coolant cycling valve, the temp spiked and I promptly shut down the car and let it cool down a couple hours then topped off. I repeated this process a second time. I don't think the temp spiked the second time because the large air bubbles were out of the system, but I was still a bit low after coming to operating temp and letting it cool.
The next morning, I topped off one more time and was pretty much good from there. I think I checked it one more time later in the week and maybe added a half cup to get the floater to float.
When you make that floater float, you may end up losing a bit of coolant from the overflow. It goes from under-full to over-full in the blink of an eye.
I previously flushed and vacuum filled the coolant system, when I got the car, one bubble caused a trans temp spike, one high rev and it blew through. Good with that part. Waiting on center duct from Germany. Installing the rest anyhow.
If it lowers temps 10-20 degrees on track days, will be super happy with that.
TBH, I didn't see a significant drop in oil temps with the 3rd radiator. Maybe a few degrees, but not as much I was hoping. I still see temps in the mid 260's to mid 270's.
I think the issue with oil/transmission cooling on these cars it not the coolant system/radiators, but more the oil/water heat exchangers being too small. The coolant temperatures are fairly well managed and stay within normal operating range. Adding more cooling capacity doesn't really help that much. The cooling system just can't get the heat out of the oil/transmission effectively enough to keep those temps down.
Unfortunately I didnt track my car before but still see beneficial to have more water cooling capacity. In case like ledbette still experiencing some 270's can upgrade to bigger oil cooler which will benefit from higher water cooling system.
TBH, I didn't see a significant drop in oil temps with the 3rd radiator. Maybe a few degrees, but not as much I was hoping. I still see temps in the mid 260's to mid 270's.
I think the issue with oil/transmission cooling on these cars it not the coolant system/radiators, but more the oil/water heat exchangers being too small. The coolant temperatures are fairly well managed and stay within normal operating range. Adding more cooling capacity doesn't really help that much. The cooling system just can't get the heat out of the oil/transmission effectively enough to keep those temps down.
I did not see much improvement in our Cayman S PDK rental car either after installing the 3rd radiator. This car is run at Road America mainly, where you are on the gas all of the time. If you don't pay attention, the car will exceed 260F oil temp fairly easily. I have found that customers who run the car in Sport Plus mode and allow the car to shift for them, tend to run much hotter than when I drive the car and shift manually. Part of this is I know how to manage temps with my right foot, and the other part is the car in Sport+ mode redlines the engine everywhere unnecessarily. In certain corners such as the carousel, for example, the car will hang the full way around in 3rd gear at like 6K+ rpm, where I simply grab 4th to lower the revs. Sport+ really pounds the car in auto mode. Additionally, the rear of the car gets so hot with the engine/exhaust and transmission back there that the ambient temps don't allow the oil coolers to do their job effectively. A larger cooler can help a little, but the air is so hot the temperature deltas are pretty low thus the coolers are not very efficient. The key is pulling hot air out as opposed to only forcing cooler air in. The issue is it only really works for cars with rear interiors removed. More on this soon...
08-22-2022, 07:46 PM
