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Unfortunately its worse on a DFI engine which the 981 has. The back of my yellow 14 CS will get all sooted up as well after a few weeks of driving. Don't panic when you find threads telling you that any soot in the tips means you have bore scoring, as there is a lot of fear mongering that goes on regarding that subject. Yes, one side consistently worse than the other with an oily residue can be a possible sign of scoring due to the oil in the cylinder, but many people will take that little bit of info an run with it completely out of context claiming its a sign of problem to have any soot in the tips. ANY engine that burns fossil fuels will have soot in the tailpipe, period. Under normal conditions it will be like a fine black powder and should not be greasy or wet.
The Base 2013 I owned for 6 years and the 2015 S I now have (both with Sport Chrono) have sooty pipes. I was wondering if it had to do with the excess emissions in Sport + , which I use 100% of the time (now the subject of the stop sale).
The Base 2013 I owned for 6 years and the 2015 S I now have (both with Sport Chrono) have sooty pipes. I was wondering if it had to do with the excess emissions in Sport + , which I use 100% of the time (now the subject of the stop sale).
I saw that as well, and on the surface it "sounds" like it could be a thing, but I do oil analysis on every oil change for years, and not once has there been any detected water dilution of any kind on my reports, and mine has been in Sports + mode 100% of the time since day one 8 years ago. Just another counterpoint with actual data to consider.
I saw that as well, and on the surface it "sounds" like it could be a thing, but I do oil analysis on every oil change for years, and not once has there been any detected water dilution of any kind on my reports, and mine has been in Sports + mode 100% of the time since day one 8 years ago. Just another counterpoint with actual data to consider.
Interesting, thanks for posting that. To be fair to the mechanic, he simply said "dilution" and I inferred water from that based on the oil temps in sport being around 190 while cruising on the highway vs 210-220 in normal mode. Could be he was talking about fuel dilution, but that also seems unlikely based on your chart. As I mentioned in that other thread I also make a lot of short trips so could be more susceptible than most.
I saw that as well, and on the surface it "sounds" like it could be a thing, but I do oil analysis on every oil change for years, and not once has there been any detected water dilution of any kind on my reports, and mine has been in Sports + mode 100% of the time since day one 8 years ago. Just another counterpoint with actual data to consider.
That's a hard data point ..but oil and water don't mix (oil floats). Do you send 'em a sample from the bottom of the oil pan?
Wonder how they test that particular property? Let it sit in the tube and see if the oil floats and then measure?
I think the oil temp just needs to get above 212 for some period of time to boil off and recirculate any H2O vapor thru the PCV system.
Driving hard in Sport Mode I can maintain 217 for an extended period of time and routinely hit 220 when not in Sport Mode.
Overall a minor issue in our well maintained cars ..but speaks to the concept of an optimal operating temperature range.
Hmmm ..something to consider for when I add that 3rd radiator. Hmmm.
That's a hard data point ..but oil and water don't mix (oil floats). Do you send 'em a sample from the bottom of the oil pan?
Wonder how they test that particular property? Let it sit in the tube and see if the oil floats and then measure?
I think the oil temp just needs to get above 212 for some period of time to boil off and recirculate any H2O vapor thru the PCV system.
Driving hard in Sport Mode I can maintain 217 for an extended period of time and routinely hit 220 when not in Sport Mode.
Overall a minor issue in our well maintained cars ..but speaks to the concept of an optimal operating temperature range.
Hmmm ..something to consider for when I add that 3rd radiator. Hmmm.
Actually, in the this examples case in yellow I did. I got distracted during the drain and realized I didn't get the sample until the oil had all drained out. It was the final trickling from the bottom of the pan and I though for sure I was going to get all sorts of elevated trash and metallic wear readings, but it was all just a clean at it always was in previous years. The oil had 5,400 miles on it, and it still looked very clean in the drain pan. None of the classic foam/light brown sludge you would typically see with water contamination of any kind.
I have zero concerns about this at all unless there is some data directly from Porsche to the contrary. There seems to be a great amount of myth and mysticism around P cars on a host of topics that dont have any actual data or science to back them up.