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Lug studs: Anti seize

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Old Feb 21, 2021 | 11:19 PM
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Default Lug studs: Anti seize

Maybe I am supposed to know this. I lifted my '14 981CS today, and my torque wrench indicated that it took over 150 ft/lb to remove the lug studs.

I put the lug studs in my self about a year ago with the recommended 118 ft/lb via torque wrench.

My question is, should some sort of anti-seize compound be used when installing lug studs?

Thank you.

Last edited by Thacker; Feb 22, 2021 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 12:02 AM
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Owner's manual on my 987.2 says to use aluminum anti-seize. Personally I've never done so, but I'm in California and corrosion isn't really a thing out here.

"Apply a thin coat of Optimoly TA (aluminum paste) on the thread and between the bolt head and movable spherical cap ring. The bearing surface of the spherical cap facing the wheel must not be greased."
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 09:26 AM
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Yes. Good idea to add some.
Also to the bearing surface that mates the wheel.
Make sure the areas are clean with wire brush first.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 04:58 PM
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First your terminology is confusing. Do you have lug bolts or studs with a nut? Was there noticeable corrosion? Porsche torque specs are clean and dry. If you use anti-seize or add any lubricant to the lug, nut or bearing surface the torque should be decreased or you risk over torqueing the studs or lugs to the point of yield. The problem I've never seen published "wet" torque values from Porsche or other manufacturers. I've seen 25-30% as a general guide. Porsche stopped recommending anti-seize on spark plugs because of over torqueing issues. Assuming you torqued the lugs or nuts when they were cold I would not be overly concerned about needing 150 to remove.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 05:25 PM
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The "wet" lug bolt torque spec is 96 ft/lbs. You can find this in the owners manual for the years where Optimoly was "required".
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 05:30 PM
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If you went with studs, you likely should have torqued them lower when you installed them. For example, Tarett specifies 60-70 ft-lbs for their wheel studs. The studs have threadlocker when shipped from Tarett.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by zuch
The "wet" lug bolt torque spec is 96 ft/lbs. You can find this in the owners manual for the years where Optimoly was "required".
I had forgotten the aluminum nuts and Optimoly for mixing the aluminum and steel. I think the "required" part was for the aluminum nut.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 10:39 PM
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Whatever your situation is, you need to figure out what you've got and the specs for your car. Do it wrong and you might not like the outcome. There's nothing like cruising down the highway and having one of your wheels come sailing past you.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 11:19 PM
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So do you have wheel bolts (stock), or studs and nuts?

I wouldn't add any anti-seize to the wheel and hub face, you want a lot of friction on that interface otherwise you will put loads on the wheel bolts or studs that they weren't designed for.

Based on other forum discussions about anti-seize on wheel bolts/nuts, this will be a long thread.

Last edited by Racer Boy; Feb 24, 2021 at 12:26 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMoose
Owner's manual on my 987.2 says to use aluminum anti-seize. Personally I've never done so, but I'm in California and corrosion isn't really a thing out here.

"Apply a thin coat of Optimoly TA (aluminum paste) on the thread and between the bolt head and movable spherical cap ring. The bearing surface of the spherical cap facing the wheel must not be greased."
Mr. Moose - can you give us a page # for that?

Thanks!
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 12:09 PM
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It's in the wheels & tires section, page 226
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 05:07 PM
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I looked in my 981 owners manual. On page 228 it says "wheel bolts should not be greased."

It did say that optimoly may be placed on the three curved flanges that center the wheel, but not on the wheel face itself.
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 07:20 PM
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My 987 manual says to use it, so I guess I'll start now. I do change wheels out 2X per year, so they are frequently operated. But it's time for me to pony up for the fancy Optimaly Paste (new version) and apply.

Who knew?
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMoose
It's in the wheels & tires section, page 226
Indeed it was - somewhere around 226 in the PDF copy I downloaded (car was in the driveway and it was cold out..) Certainly comes as a surprise to me - the vast majority of manufacturers recommend doing lug bolts dry, some make a real point out of it (like BMW..)
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave in Chicago
My 987 manual says to use it, so I guess I'll start now. I do change wheels out 2X per year, so they are frequently operated. But it's time for me to pony up for the fancy Optimaly Paste (new version) and apply.

Who knew?
I think there is general agreement that a wet torque is smaller than a dry torque for the same application since there are less friction forces on the threads. IMO the optimoly was also for corrosion protection of the alloy lugs and steel hubs (dissimilar metals) and the torque was an adjusted wet torque. It is clear in the 2013 Boxster manual that dry, clean threads are wanted with no grease for wheel lugs. Accordingly the "dry" torque increased to 118 ftlb from the previous wet torque of 96 ftlb.

I suspect as with spark plugs that the optimoly on the lugs contributed to over torqued yield failure in the lugs. I'm also guessing that much of this was related to modern air/battery impact guns, not calibration or use of manual torque wrenches.

The two common causes of broken lugs or studs are over torqueing and corrosion. If I drove my car in a winter environment or lived near the ocean I'd start out dry, but switch to anti-seize if I saw any evidence of corrosion while appropriately adjusting the torque value lower.

I suspect that both lugs and studs have a 50% safety factor in their yield strength, but severe over torqueing or torque to over come corrosion along with metal fatigue can lead to failure.

So IMHO if you use optimoly or anti-seize your torque should be the wet 96 ftlb

If your lugs are clean and dry then use 118ftib

If you replace your lugs with studs then use whatever "wet" or "dry" is recommended by the manufacture of the studs.

Lastly not to be over looked, I frequently check the torque on my lugs at the track, I can't remember the last time I checked my wife's SUV or mine.

Last edited by Kitc2246; Feb 24, 2021 at 10:38 PM.
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