Van Larson

Confessional: Despite truly valiant efforts, somehow I am assimilated temporarily (Borg years) into oil. To eradicate the virus from my weakened immune system, and with limited science, I have a fondness for DI 40 (albeit
‘“lacking A40 credentials” at last bottle inspection or Liquimoly 0-40.

schell

I use the Mobile 5-50, I think it is on sale at Napa this month.

deilenberger

Pentosin 8042206 Pento High Performance II 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil

ECS and FCP have the best prices on it. Excellent oil - keeps the "new oil" feel longer than most others (meaning sheering is minimal and viscosity is maintained.)

Oh - A40 approved.

gatorfast

All this stuff is anecdotal. Just stick with an A40 approved oil and you are good to go. The recommended and inexpensive M1 0w40 will protect yourself engine just fine as will a more expensive liquimoly or other boutique brand. You are truly splitting hairs between them all.

TEF

I very much concur with "gatorfast". The above thread is virtually the same as those that spring up on the BMW forums. There is always a sector that believes that imported (and expensive) German oils are the way to go, while others believe that domestic oils (often sold cheaply at Walmart) are fine. Assuming an oil meets A40 (or LL standards for BMWs), why not use it regardless of price or origin?

st981

When I did the oil change for the first time (as a recent owner) I used Castrol Edge 0-40w Euro Formula No idea how it compares to M1 but some 4-5 yrs ago I heard issues around M1 on the Internet so I stopped buying M1.

Speaking of viscosity, back in the day on older cars we'd bump the viscosity up to prevent oil burn. However, when I did the research because I have a DI Honda which loves to drink oil (after the initial 40k miles). I found that everyone (oil manufacturers and oil specific websites) recommended sticking to the original viscosity. This was due to the fact the newer engines running extremely tight tolerances and the concern was oil starvation for e.g. between the crank journals and bearings. So I've been sticking to the 0-20w on the honda and topping off oil every 2-3k miles.

I also noticed prior to the tune my 981 (54k miles) would ping during gear shifts- possibly the LSPI phenomenon? With the tune I don't hear it plus I've since switched to mixing race gas to get me 93 octane, which is the factory recommendation.

EDIT: regarding the comment about viscosity being EPA driven, I'm curious if Porsche recommends a higher viscosity oil for these engines outside the US?

PGuy2010

I ran my 2009 Cayman S in Motul 8100 X-Clean 5-40W to 7 days of DE's this summer and fall without issues. Now I see they have a 8100 X-Clean GEN 2 oil for Porsche C40 (not A40).
I didn't see anyone recommending Motul in the previous threads. Anyone have any comments about Motul oils?

ledbette

Like the other guys indicated, go with an A40 and you're gonna be fine.

I've used M1 0W40 FS Euro from Walmart in my 2014 Boxster S since the beginning. I now have nearly 80K daily-driver miles and ~40 track days on this car, many in TX heat. I go about 9500 miles between oil changes. I have Blackstone do the analysis after every change and the oil is always still in good shape, comparable to 4K mile oil changes for the same engine type. There is always slight shearing, but no considerable degradation. Wear metals per mile are better than average.

If you do a little research, you'll find a number of studies that indicate most wear occurs during the first 500 miles following an oil change and starts to level off at about 3K miles. So, the 10K mile oil change is not a baseless recommendation.

PorscheAddict

Peanut oil, as long as it hasn't been used for many turkeys yet.



Any A40 is fine.

GT3twenty10

Joe Gibbs oil... it’s better than anything I’ve ever tried... engine temps are lower as well

NightBlueTTS

Just do Blackstone analysis at regular intervals to ensure that you're protecting the engine.

Rupert16

Motul is a very good brand, I use it in my Cayenne Diesel.