First Time Porsche Owner - My New 1992 968 Coupe
10-10-2013, 10:44 PM
#16
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I would like a legitimate flywheel lock if possible, especially as it seems to be referenced on a regular basis for engine work, but the ArnnWorx doesn't sound to work. Should I just suck it up and get a Porsche item?
The starter was replaced on the car last year with a rebuilt Bosch unit so I am hoping this isn't a concern for me...
Is this worth an inspection or is it an easy/ cheap swap if I have the car on a lift anyway (its my dad's but when I visit, lift access
)Welcome, congrats and good selection on car.
You don't need a tensioner with the mileage on the car. They last basically forever, or 150k miles. Flywheel lock is a 'nice to have' but also not needed. The starter for the auto is different than the stick. I just take the starter out, and use a long crowbar to hold the flywheel when you tighten the crank bolt.
For oil, most people recommend an oil with a high level of ZDDP to help our cams. I don't know what the level is in the Castrol GT, but do some research on this first. I run Mobil 1 15-40 which has a nice high ZDDP content.
Trans oil is 90wt, get good stuff cause the trans can have issues if not properly oiled. Take out the fill plug before you take out the drain plug.
Most likely you'll want to replace the thermostat in the neck of the water pump. Also, get the retaining ring in the thermostat housing, as it often gets deformed or damaged. At this age, I would strongly recommend replacing the fuel lines. They aren't a wear item, but if they are orig, at least inspect them very carefully for cracks.
You can also get parts from Roger at 928sRUS. He's stocking a fair amount of 944/968 stuff now and his prices are attractive. 817-430-2688. Ships same or next day. Don't overtighten the balance shaft belt. It runs pretty loose in there. Good luck.
<edit; check your options tag under the rear carpet and look for option 220 limited slip diff. If you have that, you'll need GL-5 trans fluid for the clutches in the trans. >
You don't need a tensioner with the mileage on the car. They last basically forever, or 150k miles. Flywheel lock is a 'nice to have' but also not needed. The starter for the auto is different than the stick. I just take the starter out, and use a long crowbar to hold the flywheel when you tighten the crank bolt.
For oil, most people recommend an oil with a high level of ZDDP to help our cams. I don't know what the level is in the Castrol GT, but do some research on this first. I run Mobil 1 15-40 which has a nice high ZDDP content.
Trans oil is 90wt, get good stuff cause the trans can have issues if not properly oiled. Take out the fill plug before you take out the drain plug.
Most likely you'll want to replace the thermostat in the neck of the water pump. Also, get the retaining ring in the thermostat housing, as it often gets deformed or damaged. At this age, I would strongly recommend replacing the fuel lines. They aren't a wear item, but if they are orig, at least inspect them very carefully for cracks.
You can also get parts from Roger at 928sRUS. He's stocking a fair amount of 944/968 stuff now and his prices are attractive. 817-430-2688. Ships same or next day. Don't overtighten the balance shaft belt. It runs pretty loose in there. Good luck.
<edit; check your options tag under the rear carpet and look for option 220 limited slip diff. If you have that, you'll need GL-5 trans fluid for the clutches in the trans. >
The shop that did my timing belt on my Evo 9 recommends Brad Penn oil due to its low cost and high zinc content. I trust the shop, anyone have thoughts on this in the 968? http://www.penngrade1.com/
I will probably go for AMSoil in the transaxle. There is no mention of an LSD on my option list. Is the stock unit an open item or a lower grade LSD?
I will add those cooling system and fuel line parts to the list!
Congratulations. I have a '94 coupe in the similar/same color (Aventurine Green). I owned an '86 944 and '86 951. Because of the 968, I'm afraid I'll never go back. (And it looks like you have the same rims as I do.)
Also definitely do the transaxle lube using SwepCo.
Welcome !
Also definitely do the transaxle lube using SwepCo.
Welcome !
I love the color!
Thank you guys for the feedback! I know I can search for answers to virtually everything... but I appreciate the help here. Makes it a lot easier on me, that's for sure!
- Nate
10-10-2013, 11:34 PM
#17
OkRider
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The seals I was referring to are the upper and lower balance shaft seals, the crankshaft seal, and the exhaust camshaft seal. If I'm forgetting something, somebody here will remind me. 
For what it's worth, I'm running Swepco 201 in the transaxle and Mobil 1 15w-50 or 5w-50 in the engine. Although I've never tried it, the Brad Penn oils are supposed to be good.
Maybe look into replacing the heater control valve when you do the water pump. Those are pretty cheap and easy to get to.
For what it's worth, I'm running Swepco 201 in the transaxle and Mobil 1 15w-50 or 5w-50 in the engine. Although I've never tried it, the Brad Penn oils are supposed to be good.
Maybe look into replacing the heater control valve when you do the water pump. Those are pretty cheap and easy to get to.
10-11-2013, 12:41 AM
#18
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For the tensioner, I meant the tensioning tool. As much as I like tools and doing things right, $500+ for the Porsche belt tensioner seems a little ludicrous. Any doubts the ArnnWorx would do the job? I only question it because it lacks a tension range on the dial for 968 as it does for new and used 944 belts.
The shop that did my timing belt on my Evo 9 recommends Brad Penn oil due to its low cost and high zinc content. I trust the shop, anyone have thoughts on this in the 968? http://www.penngrade1.com/
- Nate
The shop that did my timing belt on my Evo 9 recommends Brad Penn oil due to its low cost and high zinc content. I trust the shop, anyone have thoughts on this in the 968? http://www.penngrade1.com/
- Nate
10-11-2013, 02:38 AM
#19
Instructor
I've used Swepco in all my Porsche transaxles and have never had any issues even though this could due to merely staying on top of the maintenace. I've used AMSoil years ago in my Mazda Turbo II which was autocrossed for a couple of years without issue as well.
My main point was to get new transaxle lube in there if you're not certain when it was done last.
BTW I need to spring for a 'real' flywheel lock also since the one I have is for a 944. I've been finding out a lot of my 944 stuff is irrelevant to my 968...
Cheers and have fun with resetting your maintenance cycles.
-Robert
My main point was to get new transaxle lube in there if you're not certain when it was done last.
BTW I need to spring for a 'real' flywheel lock also since the one I have is for a 944. I've been finding out a lot of my 944 stuff is irrelevant to my 968...
Cheers and have fun with resetting your maintenance cycles.
-Robert
10-11-2013, 07:39 AM
#20
I've used the ArnnWorx tension gauge on my 968, and it worked OK. It's more of a "twang and repeat" procedure than anything.
I still need to get in there and compare that with the P9201 and the Krikit, as a "just for grins" exercise.
I still need to get in there and compare that with the P9201 and the Krikit, as a "just for grins" exercise.
10-12-2013, 06:29 PM
#23
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Welcome. AFAIK the option code for the LS Diff is 220.
10-13-2013, 11:13 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
Details of Nate's 968 from the other thread, no LSD:
NS820456 - 6spd coupe
#396 of 2,234 North American 968 coupes
#396 of 649 1992 NA 968 coupes
1 of 20 N9 Oak green coupes (pretty rare)
1 of 1!!! N9 Oak green coupes paired with a black interior (17 have the cashmere and 2 have greys and only 1 black, yours!)
Factory options include metallic paint, partial leather, XD4 painted crest center caps, 418 body colored side moldings, 437 full power drivers seat, 490/494 hi-fi sound speakers with amps, 586 Lumbar support, drivers side (only 35 coupes had this option)
NS820456 - 6spd coupe
#396 of 2,234 North American 968 coupes
#396 of 649 1992 NA 968 coupes
1 of 20 N9 Oak green coupes (pretty rare)
1 of 1!!! N9 Oak green coupes paired with a black interior (17 have the cashmere and 2 have greys and only 1 black, yours!)
Factory options include metallic paint, partial leather, XD4 painted crest center caps, 418 body colored side moldings, 437 full power drivers seat, 490/494 hi-fi sound speakers with amps, 586 Lumbar support, drivers side (only 35 coupes had this option)
10-13-2013, 02:09 PM
#26
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10-14-2013, 05:26 PM
#27
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Nope, it was an option that was available on the bucket, it had a motor in it that would push out a frame piece and change the contour of the seat back for better back comfort. Very popular now days. I have it on my Audi's. Take a look at your owner's manual for a picture of the switch and operation instructions.
10-14-2013, 10:55 PM
#28
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The seals I was referring to are the upper and lower balance shaft seals, the crankshaft seal, and the exhaust camshaft seal. If I'm forgetting something, somebody here will remind me.
For what it's worth, I'm running Swepco 201 in the transaxle and Mobil 1 15w-50 or 5w-50 in the engine. Although I've never tried it, the Brad Penn oils are supposed to be good.
Maybe look into replacing the heater control valve when you do the water pump. Those are pretty cheap and easy to get to.
For what it's worth, I'm running Swepco 201 in the transaxle and Mobil 1 15w-50 or 5w-50 in the engine. Although I've never tried it, the Brad Penn oils are supposed to be good.
Maybe look into replacing the heater control valve when you do the water pump. Those are pretty cheap and easy to get to.
I saw some recommendations to switch out the Porsche heater control valve with an Audi/ Ford piece. Would you all recommend that?
Nope, it was an option that was available on the bucket, it had a motor in it that would push out a frame piece and change the contour of the seat back for better back comfort. Very popular now days. I have it on my Audi's. Take a look at your owner's manual for a picture of the switch and operation instructions.
I will keep updating the original post with my parts buy list, definitely set me straight if there are errors or better alternatives out there!
- Nate
10-15-2013, 01:01 PM
#29
Sorry, I could have been more clear. The ArnnWorx tool worked well for tensioning the belt. The instructions are clear but took me a couple reads through them to make sure I was doing it right. The method it uses is kind of funky, and I found it easy to get different readings on tests done one after the other. I must have done it a half a dozen times before I was happy it was "right".
10-17-2013, 10:34 PM
#30
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Sorry, I could have been more clear. The ArnnWorx tool worked well for tensioning the belt. The instructions are clear but took me a couple reads through them to make sure I was doing it right. The method it uses is kind of funky, and I found it easy to get different readings on tests done one after the other. I must have done it a half a dozen times before I was happy it was "right".
Which fuel lines are the ones I should be inspecting to make sure my car doesn't burst into flames?
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=201-25
Almost have a full parts list together... AutoAtlanta has a really nice setup for viewing diagrams!
- Nate