993 RS Steering wheel
#31
Racer
Thread Starter
Guys, need some info re how much should i torque down the steering shaft nut?
I did it manually first as hard as i could and now I when I drive the car the steering wheel wont self center after turns. It stays where I turn it if you understand.
It also sounds like its scratching agains the back cover of the steering wheel where the clock spring lives...
Inputs?
I did it manually first as hard as i could and now I when I drive the car the steering wheel wont self center after turns. It stays where I turn it if you understand.
It also sounds like its scratching agains the back cover of the steering wheel where the clock spring lives...
Inputs?
#32
Rennlist Member
OK, 968 CS wheel arrived with 928 horn contact. I removed the stock airbag wheel and clockspring and see that my steering column switch does not have the hole to insert the 928 horn contact. Can I drill mine to accept the contact? Also, I am having a hard time locating a 3ohm resister. Thanks, Mike
#33
Instructor
Behind/underneath the steering wheel colum you'll find an 8mm nut. Use a nut driver to loosen it, push the plastic piece all the way back, and tighten.
I'm trying to remember this all from memory, too early in the morning, before my morning coffee (beer), so bear with me if my description is slightly off.
As for how much torque is required, I don't remember, I just remember tightening it till I felt like it wouldn't fall off, then a quarter turn more.
Then I connected the battery and hired a neighborhood kid to turn the car on in case I messed something up and the air bag exploded. (He survived)
#34
Nordschleife Master
my method is as low as possible in the passenger foot well using my left arm to turn the car on. im right handed you see. so far no problems.
#36
OK, 968 CS wheel arrived with 928 horn contact. I removed the stock airbag wheel and clockspring and see that my steering column switch does not have the hole to insert the 928 horn contact. Can I drill mine to accept the contact? Also, I am having a hard time locating a 3ohm resister. Thanks, Mike
Mike, this should be all you need for the resistor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NTE-QW3D0-1-...item5d413b65ff
#37
Had this same problem when I replaced my steering wheel. That plastic plate where the clock spring is needs to get pushed back. It's kind of a pain in the *** to do from what I remember. If my memory serves me, you start at the heater/AC controls on the dash. You see the vent controls, that slide back and forth? pull them off. Then carefully pry that plate back to reveal a couple screws holding that in place. Remove that whole mechanism. It would come all the way out. Now work your way back towards the steering wheel column. (Don't forget to curse a lot, this is integral part of the process) The rubber seal around the ignition needs to come off too.
Behind/underneath the steering wheel colum you'll find an 8mm nut. Use a nut driver to loosen it, push the plastic piece all the way back, and tighten.
I'm trying to remember this all from memory, too early in the morning, before my morning coffee (beer), so bear with me if my description is slightly off.
As for how much torque is required, I don't remember, I just remember tightening it till I felt like it wouldn't fall off, then a quarter turn more.
Then I connected the battery and hired a neighborhood kid to turn the car on in case I messed something up and the air bag exploded. (He survived)
Behind/underneath the steering wheel colum you'll find an 8mm nut. Use a nut driver to loosen it, push the plastic piece all the way back, and tighten.
I'm trying to remember this all from memory, too early in the morning, before my morning coffee (beer), so bear with me if my description is slightly off.
As for how much torque is required, I don't remember, I just remember tightening it till I felt like it wouldn't fall off, then a quarter turn more.
Then I connected the battery and hired a neighborhood kid to turn the car on in case I messed something up and the air bag exploded. (He survived)