kwikt

It's just the plastic distributor cap cover. Not really needed.

jax

Okay... part #20 "lid", do I really need to replace any? Somewhere I got that I only need (1) but there are (3) in the PET.

Apologies I have not been around in a while to bother all of you nice people, I will try to do better.

Thanks,
Jak

mbardeen

For future reference -- Paragon sells a kit that includes most of the seals that you've highlighted (including those caps).

As to your question, I don't think those are a necessary replacement. You could probably get by with some RTV gray around the edges. One note, when you take off the bridge to get to them, make sure you don't lose the cylindrical plugs for the oil galleries. Not having them there will lead to low oil pressure in the head -- meaning lots of top end noise and wear.

I found one of mine in the bottom of my oil pan, evidently lost by the mechanic who RTVed those caps on my car.

Krag50

Head gasket

RajDatta

There is a head gasket kit sold for these cars. It covers everything needed.

jax

I have the porsche flywheel lock. The starter is out. The flywheel lock is in... well mostly in.
It appears that the tool does not go all the way in, or sit flush on the starter mating surface. Looks to be about a 1/4" gap. Is this normal. It appears to be locked but wanted to check with the pro's before I really start to wrench on the crank pulley nut.

So far, the cam teeth look great (the ones I can see), and I think you will all be impressed with how deep the tensioner pad grooves are.

Rob in Oz

It sits flush on my engine. Maybe a little wiggle of the crankshaft and a gentle tap?

Rob

RajDatta

Yuup, you want to make sure you have it fully seated and not sheer off some teeth from the flywheel.

Also, make sure you lock your cam gear clocking before you take the triple square bolt off, or you will throw your timing off. This was covered in the DIY.

jax

Thanks for the quick replies. I will try and get the flywheel lock seated better.

My goal was to keep the same timing, but I dont know if that will be possible. I understand, to keep the same timing I need to lock the camgear in relation to the backing plate. Here are some pictures and then I will tell you why I am confused...







In the first image there is a sizeable gap between the rotor and the cam gear. Looking in the PET I see there is supposed to be a spacer here and that even if you bend the rotor as in the second picture, yep, you still need those spacers. Can I assume that my timing is not correct, and that the cam gear is just resting on the furthest edge of its keyway? Or is there some other way this camgear is locked in the correct Timed position.

Thanks in advance for any help/recommendations!

Jax

dougs968

Jax, search for the camshaft pads DIY in this forum that Raj and Arash posted. It will answer most of your questions. The rest of us can fill in the blanks. Maybe someone here can post the link?

Looks to me like your timing is pretty close looking at the factory witness marks on the gear and the back cover. Mine was off a whole belt tooth when I did mine. Scary.

jax

Thanks Doug. Yes, Im definitely using Arash's and Raj's DIY as my guide. Im pretty good at installing in reverse of removal, but it appears the P.O.(S) Shop didn't feel the need to re-use all the parts, or they Jury-Rig'd pieces they lost.

As far as the timing, I would agree that the marks line up, but something doesnt feel right. I need to re-look at the WSM see if I can figure out what Im missing.

Next Question:
Will I need a new Variocam oil tube or does this look re-usable. I have a feeling this tube would be very difficult/expensive to replace.

dougs968

Is it cracked at the flange? It does look a little bent maybe. Hard for me to tell on my I phone.

jax

It is straight but it "seems" cracked, but nothing is loose or anything.

jax

red or blue loctite thread locker on the variocam allen head bolt/stds that prevent tensioner pads from sliding off? Thanks!

dougs968

If it were mine, I'd first clean it thoroughly with MEK or lacquer thinner and then inspect under magnification.

I have a good spare I don't really want to part with, but when I get home this evening I'll look at it and will visually compare it to yours and let you know what I see.