Clutch replacement the right way
#1
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Arash helped me with a clutch job yesterday and it was interesting to learn just how many wear items there are besides a friction disk. If replacing the clutch in your 968 [or maybe any car] then ALL of the following items should be inspected, resurfaced, or replaced in addition to the friction disk in order to be done correctly:
Flywheel and pressure plate, as these are the surfaces that a new disk will come into direct contact with
Pilot bearing - There's a big difference between 0 mile and 10k mile pilot bearings which no longer spin freely. 50k mile bearings are sticky and 90k bearings are pretty much totally shot.
Clutch fork bearings - These are one of the things that determines clutch pedal effort and should come in a clutch kit
Clutch fork pin - I was surprised to see how much these parts can wear in 50k miles. The needle bearings can leave scored marks all over the pin which gives the clutch a notchy sensation when engaging/disengaging
Clutch fork - Even the clutch fork itself can be worn near the pivots and this part doesn't come in a clutch kit so you'll need to order a new one from Porsche
Flywheel and pressure plate, as these are the surfaces that a new disk will come into direct contact with
Pilot bearing - There's a big difference between 0 mile and 10k mile pilot bearings which no longer spin freely. 50k mile bearings are sticky and 90k bearings are pretty much totally shot.
Clutch fork bearings - These are one of the things that determines clutch pedal effort and should come in a clutch kit
Clutch fork pin - I was surprised to see how much these parts can wear in 50k miles. The needle bearings can leave scored marks all over the pin which gives the clutch a notchy sensation when engaging/disengaging
Clutch fork - Even the clutch fork itself can be worn near the pivots and this part doesn't come in a clutch kit so you'll need to order a new one from Porsche
#2
OkRider
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G96, thanks for posting that. I will be replacing mine in the not too distant future. I probably would have overlooked the smaller items. It is good to have a complete list to start with. How many hours are involved? Any difficult areas or special tools involved?
Doug
Doug
#3
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Hey Doug, that's not actually a complete list of parts but more like the list of wear items that people may not know about. I know that some of them surprised me. Some other parts that one should replace are the flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, and throw-out bearing.
Lifting the car then removing the exhaust, starter, and bell housing cover plate can take 1-2 hrs depending on your setup and experience. The actual clutch job itself can take a half day, then 1-2 hrs for the exhaust/starter/bell housing reassembly before the car is ready to drive again. Unless you have someone willing to counter-hold the crank for every flywheel and pressure plate bolt, you'll need the flywheel lock tool for a 968 which is different and much longer than the 944 flywheel lock. It can also be difficult to get the torque tube shaft inserted back into the clutch assembly but greasing the shaft should help and loosening the torque tube to bell housing bolts can help as well.
I thought this write-up was a good supplement to the 968 workshop manual:
http://www.968turbo.com/clutch.htm
Lifting the car then removing the exhaust, starter, and bell housing cover plate can take 1-2 hrs depending on your setup and experience. The actual clutch job itself can take a half day, then 1-2 hrs for the exhaust/starter/bell housing reassembly before the car is ready to drive again. Unless you have someone willing to counter-hold the crank for every flywheel and pressure plate bolt, you'll need the flywheel lock tool for a 968 which is different and much longer than the 944 flywheel lock. It can also be difficult to get the torque tube shaft inserted back into the clutch assembly but greasing the shaft should help and loosening the torque tube to bell housing bolts can help as well.
I thought this write-up was a good supplement to the 968 workshop manual:
http://www.968turbo.com/clutch.htm
#5
OkRider
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Thanks again G96. I have a 968 flywheel lock but will need to buy a shorter triple square socket to get the flywheel off. I wonder if there is a proper torx or socket head cap screw that could be substituted for the triple square flywheel bolts? That link to the write-up is great. More sources of information are always appreciated. As you know the factory service manual doesn't always translate clearly.
At the rate I go, I figure it'll take me a good weekend.
Doug
At the rate I go, I figure it'll take me a good weekend.
Doug
#6
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Also, don't forget to lube torque tube slider, needle and disk teeth with copper based paste. This could be the difference between a buttery new clutch and a jittery new clutch.
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#9
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Been there done that soon after buying G96's car a few years ago. Then the clutch pedal snapped due to clevis and pin worn almost completely thru andpressing against it for who knows how long. Had replaced the clevis and pin during the complete clutch job, but could not see the damage to the pedal...which is some type of plastic and had to come from Germany and is a PITA to replace.
#10
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Been there done that soon after buying G96's car a few years ago. Then the clutch pedal snapped due to clevis and pin worn almost completely thru andpressing against it for who knows how long. Had replaced the clevis and pin during the complete clutch job, but could not see the damage to the pedal...which is some type of plastic and had to come from Germany and is a PITA to replace.
https://rennlist.com/forums/968-foru...car-worth.html