968's @ DE's --- How do they hold up?
#16
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The heat on my car won't come off after I turn it all the way down to the lowest setting: I still get a little heat. Would you agree that I should look at the HCV as a possible culprit? How difficult is this to change? I ask simply because I purchased a new dash for the car and it would appear logical that I attack the heater problem when the dash is out. Does this make sense?
#17
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It's a good track car, depends on what tires, pads etc you use, and how you drive. I did two track days on many-year-old pads, and the brake pad sensor light is starting to flicker occasionally... I think the pads are OEM or comparable.
Some points on the 968 are "weak" or prone to failure with heavy abuse. I see them as leftover unaddressed cheapnesses from the 924 frame. Like the area of the firewall around the master cylinders that cracks, or the sway bar brackets that break. But any car will have its Achilles' heel(s).
Some points on the 968 are "weak" or prone to failure with heavy abuse. I see them as leftover unaddressed cheapnesses from the 924 frame. Like the area of the firewall around the master cylinders that cracks, or the sway bar brackets that break. But any car will have its Achilles' heel(s).
Two other points I've seen wearing out -- first is the clutch hose between the master and the slave cylinder. I've seen that hose blow out on two of my cars -- plus countless others. And that's just from daily driving.
As for aggressive driving, the heater control valve (HCV). I've blown it out during AutoX, and have seen other 968s do the same. The location is really dangerous -- directly over the right front wheel -- perfect for making that tire slick with coolant.
Both of these parts have available stronger alternative components.
As for aggressive driving, the heater control valve (HCV). I've blown it out during AutoX, and have seen other 968s do the same. The location is really dangerous -- directly over the right front wheel -- perfect for making that tire slick with coolant.
Both of these parts have available stronger alternative components.
Thanks for these comments, guys --- these are the kind of things that I want to know about, the common weak points that are going to fail or need to be regularly addressed.
How do the valve trains hold up? Timing gear? Balance shafts? Transmissions? Diffs? Hubs? Wheel bearings?
Thanks for all of the input!
#18
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Keep an eye on the chain and the pads, and the rest of the valvetrain is pretty reliable. Replace that God forsaken timing belt often (and the balance shaft belt) with Porsche OE, or better if available. Don't power shift and use a good gear oil, and the tranny will love you long time.
#19
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The problem with HCV is that it's basically two pieces of plastic glued together. Some of us have had better success with fully metal units designed for Audi's such as this (Napa part #BK 6601410). The S2 has it's HCV located by the firewall right? I'm not sure if the same part would fit, but you get the idea....
I think the same OE part fits everythng from 924->968, so if the Audi parts fits a 968, I'd be surprised if it didn't fit an S2. I agree that the plastic OE ones seem to be an obvious weak link/point of failure. Since I'm going to replace mine (I suspect it's not sealing properly), I thought I'd upgrade, if possible.
#20
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Keep an eye on the chain and the pads, and the rest of the valvetrain is pretty reliable. Replace that God forsaken timing belt often (and the balance shaft belt) with Porsche OE, or better if available. Don't power shift and use a good gear oil, and the tranny will love you long time.
What does a stock clutch kit + labor for install cost?
#21
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I can do it (see avatar).
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#22
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I agree with Dave. Start with a 100 dollar bill and then gradually build up! Once you are comfortable with watching 3 to 5 of them go up in flames, then you are ready!!!
Best of luck!
Best of luck!