968's @ DE's --- How do they hold up?
04-05-2009, 11:30 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
968's @ DE's --- How do they hold up?
How do 968's hold up to DE's and open track days?
Are they pretty good on brakes, tires, etc --- or do they eat 'em up?
What else wears or will take a beating?
Or are these cars really too rare to be tracking, nowadays?
Are they pretty good on brakes, tires, etc --- or do they eat 'em up?
What else wears or will take a beating?
Or are these cars really too rare to be tracking, nowadays?
04-06-2009, 05:50 AM
#3
Nordschleife Master
I have non-m030 brakes (I have the small ones) and with fresh ATE blue fluid and Ferodo DS2500 pads, I can brake at late as my heart desires without any fade, all day long.
I have slightly more camber so that I don't chew up the outside edges of my tires at autox/de, but it does NOT wear the insides of the tires prematurely as a result. (toe has been nearly zero'd)
The car is fun and easy to drive, and faster than any other 944 except modified 944 turbos.
I have slightly more camber so that I don't chew up the outside edges of my tires at autox/de, but it does NOT wear the insides of the tires prematurely as a result. (toe has been nearly zero'd)
The car is fun and easy to drive, and faster than any other 944 except modified 944 turbos.
04-06-2009, 11:35 AM
#4
Drifting
I love my 968 for the track. My car is extremely modified and a "Track Only" vehicle. With that said, it's highly competitive against the higher hp cars on the shorter, twisty tracks but does give up a bit against on the faster tracks such as WG and VIR.
As far as preparation,
Make sure the control arm pins/ball joints are inspected annually.
Service drivers side rear axle annually and check bolts at the end of each track day. Heat from the exhaust cause the axle boot to wear faster then the passenger side.
Check fluids after each run.
Bleed brakes after each event.
Check tire pressures after each run.
Good luck!
As far as preparation,
Make sure the control arm pins/ball joints are inspected annually.
Service drivers side rear axle annually and check bolts at the end of each track day. Heat from the exhaust cause the axle boot to wear faster then the passenger side.
Check fluids after each run.
Bleed brakes after each event.
Check tire pressures after each run.
Good luck!
04-06-2009, 06:27 PM
#6
Addict
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Depends on if you hit anything !
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04-07-2009, 05:59 AM
#9
RL Community Team
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It's a good track car, depends on what tires, pads etc you use, and how you drive. I did two track days on many-year-old pads, and the brake pad sensor light is starting to flicker occasionally... I think the pads are OEM or comparable.
Some points on the 968 are "weak" or prone to failure with heavy abuse. I see them as leftover unaddressed cheapnesses from the 924 frame. Like the area of the firewall around the master cylinders that cracks, or the sway bar brackets that break. But any car will have its Achilles' heel(s).
Some points on the 968 are "weak" or prone to failure with heavy abuse. I see them as leftover unaddressed cheapnesses from the 924 frame. Like the area of the firewall around the master cylinders that cracks, or the sway bar brackets that break. But any car will have its Achilles' heel(s).
04-07-2009, 09:10 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
A wiser person than me once said.."Figure out what class you want to race in, and then build the car to the rules of that class"
Or at least something like that...
Basically you should think about where/how you want to race...that is, do you want to be run in a stock class, prepared , super unlimited, etc.
If you simply want a fast car for the track...Well, the budget can be ridiculous.
Or at least something like that...
Basically you should think about where/how you want to race...that is, do you want to be run in a stock class, prepared , super unlimited, etc.
If you simply want a fast car for the track...Well, the budget can be ridiculous.
04-07-2009, 09:34 AM
#12
Nordschleife Master
Unfortunately, I listened to the first wise man. Although I really like my car and it is competitive for the class that it was built for (NASA GTS3), it would have been cheaper to buy an existing GTS3 car.
04-07-2009, 11:29 AM
#13
Race Car
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Two other points I've seen wearing out -- first is the clutch hose between the master and the slave cylinder. I've seen that hose blow out on two of my cars -- plus countless others. And that's just from daily driving.
As for aggressive driving, the heater control valve (HCV). I've blown it out during AutoX, and have seen other 968s do the same. The location is really dangerous -- directly over the right front wheel -- perfect for making that tire slick with coolant.
Both of these parts have available stronger alternative components.
As for aggressive driving, the heater control valve (HCV). I've blown it out during AutoX, and have seen other 968s do the same. The location is really dangerous -- directly over the right front wheel -- perfect for making that tire slick with coolant.
Both of these parts have available stronger alternative components.
04-07-2009, 02:33 PM
#14
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As for aggressive driving, the heater control valve (HCV). I've blown it out during AutoX, and have seen other 968s do the same. The location is really dangerous -- directly over the right front wheel -- perfect for making that tire slick with coolant.
Both of these parts have available stronger alternative components.
Both of these parts have available stronger alternative components.
04-07-2009, 02:55 PM
#15
Race Car
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The problem with HCV is that it's basically two pieces of plastic glued together. Some of us have had better success with fully metal units designed for Audi's such as this (Napa part #BK 6601410). The S2 has it's HCV located by the firewall right? I'm not sure if the same part would fit, but you get the idea....
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