HELP - Coolant Explosion - all fluid gone on the ground...
#31
Yeah turn the HVAC to full heat which opens the HCV and allows coolant into the heater core. Open the bleed screw, fill the coolant resevoir until coolant comes out of bleed screw, close bleed screw and start car. I'd continue letting the engine run while making note of engine coolant temp and checking to see if the heater is blowing hot air. If the air is still cold when car is to operating temp then open the bleed screw again and top off coolant when you're done.
What gives?
Thanks
#33
Try what PorscheG96 said, and if that doesn't work, try this. This is probably not what any book says, but it always works for me.
It really helps if you squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times to create some swishing and flowing (with the screw closed and the tank cap off). Then turn the car on and let it warm up until the fans come on (then you know the thermostat is open). Then open the bleeder, rev the engine manually until coolant spurts out, and once the spurting becomes a consistent stream, close the bleeder while still revving, then stop revving, and test drive.
Wash your hands thoroughly as coolant is very toxic. I mean I don't even care if I'm under the car and oil drips right into my mouth. I spit it out but w/e. But I will not let coolant anywhere near my face.
It really helps if you squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times to create some swishing and flowing (with the screw closed and the tank cap off). Then turn the car on and let it warm up until the fans come on (then you know the thermostat is open). Then open the bleeder, rev the engine manually until coolant spurts out, and once the spurting becomes a consistent stream, close the bleeder while still revving, then stop revving, and test drive.
Wash your hands thoroughly as coolant is very toxic. I mean I don't even care if I'm under the car and oil drips right into my mouth. I spit it out but w/e. But I will not let coolant anywhere near my face.
#34
OK, did the above procedure, and let the bleed screw open with the Heater on full until only coolant came out (was very bubbly still though...). Problem is, now the water temp fluctuates greatly from above half mark when sitting yet settles back down when driving. Hot air works fine BTW.
What gives?
Thanks
What gives?
Thanks
#35
I think I may have not installed the HCV correctly and the small vacuum hose is not in completely connected thus creating no suction. When I change from Hot to Cold on the HVAC, and turn the fans on and off, the Valve does not move, although I can manually push the arm on the HCV up.
Could that be the problem, simply the vacuum hose being installed improperly?
Thanks... something that seemed so simple is turning out to be difficult... but what is new?
Good news was that I did get the nerve to finally wash the car in 30 degree weather!
Thanks again everyone!
#36
Does it get to the top line, when sitting?
As the engine revs, the coolant circulates throughout the system. I forget the exact reason, but it doesn't flow through out, when sitting. Moreover, it gets much warmer when sitting, as it should, without airflow across the radiator. Next drive, leave the heat on full, and turn on the recirc. It will blow like hell, but it should give you a better idea of what you are getting. When you get home, CAREFULLY, and with GLOVES and ARM PROTECTION, open the bleed screw a bit, until there are no bubbles, then tighten. That should finally do it. YMMV. These cars are a PITA when bleeding.
As the engine revs, the coolant circulates throughout the system. I forget the exact reason, but it doesn't flow through out, when sitting. Moreover, it gets much warmer when sitting, as it should, without airflow across the radiator. Next drive, leave the heat on full, and turn on the recirc. It will blow like hell, but it should give you a better idea of what you are getting. When you get home, CAREFULLY, and with GLOVES and ARM PROTECTION, open the bleed screw a bit, until there are no bubbles, then tighten. That should finally do it. YMMV. These cars are a PITA when bleeding.
#38
Found this old thread while searching for heater control valve.
The links is not working in this old post.
FRporscheman, if you still are here, which valve did you use?
The links is not working in this old post.
FRporscheman, if you still are here, which valve did you use?
I used this write-up to convert both of my cars to a metal HCV. It fits nicely and works flawlessly.
http://www.clubstuttgart.net/showthread.php?t=358
Beware, NAPA sells a metal one and a plastic one under the same part number! So if they hand you a plastic one, just return it and try again, either at a different NAPA or just come back later. If they insist that you tell them a year and make, then tell them it's for a 1988 Audi 5000.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...n=Heater+Valve
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http://www.clubstuttgart.net/showthread.php?t=358
Beware, NAPA sells a metal one and a plastic one under the same part number! So if they hand you a plastic one, just return it and try again, either at a different NAPA or just come back later. If they insist that you tell them a year and make, then tell them it's for a 1988 Audi 5000.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...n=Heater+Valve
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#43
I disagree. The OEM valve presents too much of a risk of cracking in half and soaking the RF tire with coolant. There should not be any air in the system and the safety valve is the pressure cap which should release pressure at it's set limit. I have had no problems with the metal valves in several cars, other than a ziptie or twist of wire to insure the vacuum line does not come off there were no problems or surprises installing them.
-Joel.
-Joel.
#45