Belt tensioner compression tool
#1
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Belt tensioner compression tool
I learned how to weld last quarter at school, and my instructor let me bring in a project during the last week of class. I could use the plasma cutter but I wasn't allowed to touch the grinder so some of the edges came out... unclean.
I always wondered how one is supposed to "slacken the belt" for various engine work... It seemed the tensioner needed to be compressed in place, but I didn't know how. I tried a couple of different tricks, one required too much effort, the other required a new belt .
Well I stumbled upon the answer I was looking for. Conveniently located at the very end of the belt chapter in the FWSM, is a picture of the tool needed to compress the tensioner while on the engine. I have never seen one for sale anywhere but it looked simple so I decided to make it. Nothing creative or special, just a simple replication of the illustrated tool.
I used a threaded rod and two nuts . Along with a couple of pipes and strips of scrap stainless steel. Then I sprayed it with cold galvanizing stuff just 'cause. I have tried it, and it does work wonderfully.
The only thing I need to change is the flat parts could be a little shorter... they just don't need to be that long.
I always wondered how one is supposed to "slacken the belt" for various engine work... It seemed the tensioner needed to be compressed in place, but I didn't know how. I tried a couple of different tricks, one required too much effort, the other required a new belt .
Well I stumbled upon the answer I was looking for. Conveniently located at the very end of the belt chapter in the FWSM, is a picture of the tool needed to compress the tensioner while on the engine. I have never seen one for sale anywhere but it looked simple so I decided to make it. Nothing creative or special, just a simple replication of the illustrated tool.
I used a threaded rod and two nuts . Along with a couple of pipes and strips of scrap stainless steel. Then I sprayed it with cold galvanizing stuff just 'cause. I have tried it, and it does work wonderfully.
The only thing I need to change is the flat parts could be a little shorter... they just don't need to be that long.
#3
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And because my motto is anything can be done without the special tool, I also tried using a small crobar/prybar to just pry between spacer and lever, and that actually worked too, but it takes a lot of effort (it needs to be done slowly...).
#7
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I didn't plan to make more of these but it was fairly easy, so if anyone wants one I can try to make more. PM me?
That's a nice 968 - love the color!
That's a nice 968 - love the color!
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#8
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I actually put a wrench on the nut that holds the tensioner pulley on, put a cheater bar (another wrench) on the first wrench, and lean on the wrenches with medium force for about 10 or more minutes until the it slowly pushes the tensioner into the spot where I can get the holding pin into the tensioner. Its kind of unwieldly so if a helper is there to stick the pin through, it is much easier since holding the pressure and sticking in the pin is near impossible. If you push too hard on the wrenches, the nut on the tensioner pulley will break loose so slow even pressure is best. Whether this method has anything to do with my tensioner play I mentioned earlier in this thread, I dont know.
#9
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I have always removed the tensioner and compressed it slowly using a vise. You have to do it slowly. Also, it is important to use washers on both ends of the tensioner to protect it from damage.
Raj
Raj
#10
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Jay, doing it that way stretches and stresses the belt doesn't it?
The main crank bolt washer fits perfectly over the base of the tensioner cylinder so one can compress it in a vice... I believe the tensioner was made to fit the washer just right.
The main crank bolt washer fits perfectly over the base of the tensioner cylinder so one can compress it in a vice... I believe the tensioner was made to fit the washer just right.
#11
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The arms are long on the tool in the shop manual picture because the original use for the tool is to push pistons back into brake calipers--it's available commercially as Kukko tool 126-00 from Samstag for about $250. So look how much money you saved yourself! Congrats on the fabrication!
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Actually the method I used compresses the tensioner and is releasing the tension off the belt as I push. I do not see how it could be stretching the belt. If it is then please let me know how it could be, I do not want to break my belt doing this.
#14
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^ Next time I'm at Harbor Freight I'll grab one of these and give it a shot!
Jay, oh ok gotcha. As long as you're not stressing the belt then you're fine, I just misunderstood your other post.
Jay, oh ok gotcha. As long as you're not stressing the belt then you're fine, I just misunderstood your other post.
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Glad to hear I am not breaking anything. Since I came up with that method on my own, I am open to opinions on whether it is good or bad and really do not want to replace valves on my 968 because I am doing something stupid.