Koni Inserts DIY?
#1
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I am about to embark on installing the Koni inserts, Hypercoil lowering springs, and Koni rears this weekend. I know that Paragon has a DIY, but does anyone have some tips for the install? I heard from someone that I do not need the spring compressor and can use another technique.
Anyone else with experience with this?
I will take many photos and post the DIY, if it benefits anyone...
Thanks
Anyone else with experience with this?
I will take many photos and post the DIY, if it benefits anyone...
Thanks
#2
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It's pretty simple, just follow the Paragon instructions. And if you follow the other suggestion on the springs it should make it alot easier not having to compress the springs.
For cutting the strut I used a pipe cutter from Lowes plumbing department but you can use just about anything. Just remember to measure twice and cut one.
For cutting the strut I used a pipe cutter from Lowes plumbing department but you can use just about anything. Just remember to measure twice and cut one.
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It's pretty simple, just follow the Paragon instructions. And if you follow the other suggestion on the springs it should make it alot easier not having to compress the springs.
For cutting the strut I used a pipe cutter from Lowes plumbing department but you can use just about anything. Just remember to measure twice and cut one.
For cutting the strut I used a pipe cutter from Lowes plumbing department but you can use just about anything. Just remember to measure twice and cut one.
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I just did this procedure without a spring compressor. Basically, put the front of the car on stands. Swing the sway bar out of the way. Then put your floor jack under the control arm. Jack it up some. Release the top nut on the strut and then lower your jack. It will come right out. The top strut mount stays bolted on the car. You might want to loosen the lower strut bolts before you drop the strut as it makes it easier.
I cut the strut with a 3 1/2 inch hand held grinder with a cut off wheel installed. After you drill the hole in the bottom of the strut. Mount the strut rod in a vise. Rest the grinder against the vice and cut the strut as it starts cutting just turn the strut. Worked great.
I cut the strut with a 3 1/2 inch hand held grinder with a cut off wheel installed. After you drill the hole in the bottom of the strut. Mount the strut rod in a vise. Rest the grinder against the vice and cut the strut as it starts cutting just turn the strut. Worked great.
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Hello all,
I am currently performing the koni insert conversion on my stock struts. I have two questions that I could really use some help on before I move forward:
1) Does the insert need to fit snug to the bottom of the original strut housing? In other words, how close does the bottom of the insert need to get to the end of the original strut housing?
- I ask because I measured fairly precisely before I cut and it does not appear that the new insert reaches bottom of the original housing, where you thread the new bolt
2) When re-installing the entire assembly, how far does the top of the insert have to extend out through the strut tower? In other words, when screwing down the top nut, how far out should the top of the insert be?
- This is probably tied to the first question...
I hope this makes sense. If not, I can post some photos of what I am talking about.
Thanks in advance for your help, could use it ASAP as I need to finish this before Monday...
I am currently performing the koni insert conversion on my stock struts. I have two questions that I could really use some help on before I move forward:
1) Does the insert need to fit snug to the bottom of the original strut housing? In other words, how close does the bottom of the insert need to get to the end of the original strut housing?
- I ask because I measured fairly precisely before I cut and it does not appear that the new insert reaches bottom of the original housing, where you thread the new bolt
2) When re-installing the entire assembly, how far does the top of the insert have to extend out through the strut tower? In other words, when screwing down the top nut, how far out should the top of the insert be?
- This is probably tied to the first question...
I hope this makes sense. If not, I can post some photos of what I am talking about.
Thanks in advance for your help, could use it ASAP as I need to finish this before Monday...
#6
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Even though I have not done the conversion myself, I have read it in the procedure in the past and based on memory its important that you get to the bottom of the old housing so you can bolt in the new insert. Otherwise, the insert will be loose in the housing.
Can't answer #2.
Raj
Can't answer #2.
Raj
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#8
Racer
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when you put the insert in and tighten up the bottom bolt, it pulls the insert into the old strut assembly, so dont make it fit first off otherwise it wont pull down inside the strut, I had about 5mm off the bottom, then as it tightened it the Koni insert pulled in, it becomes snug to the bottom of the shock, but in the process locks in the top.
rgds
mike
rgds
mike
#9
Racer
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if you see the new Koni inserts they have raised beads that appear to act as a stop when you first insert them, but the function of these beads is to be pulled down into the old assembly effectively locking the top of the insert & old strut together whilst the bolt at the bottom locks that end...hope I have explained that well enough
I can do a photo if needed as I have just done the conversion on mine.
rgds
mike
I can do a photo if needed as I have just done the conversion on mine.
rgds
mike
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Is this normal? I had assumed you replaced the cap... Thing is, even when I dropped the control arm without the nut on the top threaded part of the strut (so it would hang freely) the entire assembly would not drop far enough for me to get the cap on.
Sorry for clogging up the forums, I just don't want to mess this up!
Thanks
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Im going to start this process quite soon, i still need some parts can u please help me.
2 x M14 x ?? bolts
2 x M14 washers ?
2 x rubber sleeving? where can i find these?
and if i dont use the the springs compressor and go the optional route, how easy is to put the strut back in the car?with all the spring tension and all?
regards
2 x M14 x ?? bolts
2 x M14 washers ?
2 x rubber sleeving? where can i find these?
and if i dont use the the springs compressor and go the optional route, how easy is to put the strut back in the car?with all the spring tension and all?
regards
#14
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If you picked up the paragon kit, it should have all of those in it. If you didn't get them from Paragon, you should be able to source the hardware from a fastener shop, and I have no idea where you'd find the rubber sleeves. Maybe you could order them from Paragon?
#15
Three Wheelin'
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Copy of part of an email I sent to Jason @ Paragon back in 2005:
"Also wanted to mention that I got the Koni inserts from the local Koni distributor - they are 1414S but made in Holland - and they appear to measure slightly differently to the USA Koni inserts.
On my inserts, the threaded "spud" on the bottom looks shorter than the ones shown on your website. I guess the Koni instructions still apply, but when I cut the strut housings and test fitted the inserts, the bolt was about 13mm away from engaging the thread in the bottom of the insert.
I measured the distance through the hole in the bottom of the housing using vernier callipers (23mm), and measuring the bolt indicated that 10mm was the correct dimension to aim for. I cut another 13mm off the strut housings and everything worked out fine.
You may wish to add a note to the instructions on your website that they only apply to Koni USA inserts."
Mike
"Also wanted to mention that I got the Koni inserts from the local Koni distributor - they are 1414S but made in Holland - and they appear to measure slightly differently to the USA Koni inserts.
On my inserts, the threaded "spud" on the bottom looks shorter than the ones shown on your website. I guess the Koni instructions still apply, but when I cut the strut housings and test fitted the inserts, the bolt was about 13mm away from engaging the thread in the bottom of the insert.
I measured the distance through the hole in the bottom of the housing using vernier callipers (23mm), and measuring the bolt indicated that 10mm was the correct dimension to aim for. I cut another 13mm off the strut housings and everything worked out fine.
You may wish to add a note to the instructions on your website that they only apply to Koni USA inserts."
Mike