FRporscheman

This always gets people. I'm guessing you have some minor burrs on the camshaft which the gear is getting hung up on. You should try rubbing some sandpaper on the shaft, as though drying your back with a towel. The sand paper will smooth out the burrs and things should go smoothly from there. And definitely do what Raj said too - all together now.

That pic is NOT me. Jeez, everyone thinks it's me. But I got kinda tired of just showing my car.

CarbonRevo

On the gear removal, I don't see how anyone can simply pull theres off. I had to beat mine off with a punch and hammer. Unfortunately, I had to remove the hall sensor to do so, which is a BITCH to reset the clearance on. When I reinstalled the hall sensor, it rubbed the piece on the back of the cam gear. Took me 3 trys of removing the cam gear to get it right!

I HIGHLY suggest the Snap On 3/8 Triple Square socket. It's about 25 bucks, and you will thank yourself. I stripped 4 cam bolts upon trying to remove them. I then had to buy Snap On's bolt and nut removes which ran $230 bucks. Thankfully these saved my ***. I would recommend any Snap On tool. They're worth every penny.

I can't remember if I saved any of the cam bolts. The heads were damn near torn off. It was a living hel getting them off and paying $7.70 a piece for 10 new ones!

FRporscheman

+1 on expensive cheeseheads being worth it. I kept stripping bolts with the set I had, and I thought that set was good quality. Well I went and bought that crazy-expensive set, and I have not stripped one bolt since.

kwikt

Thanks guys, I'll try penetrating oil. Also I think I"m going to replace the camshaft cheesehead bolt with an allen bolt. Hopefully I'll get the cam chain replaced along with the cam pads today otherwise might have to skip work tomorrow to finish up.


Kevin

RajDatta

Kevin, the right tool will make all the difference. I have a set of VIM XZN100 sockets that they have been worth their weight in gold. I paid around $28 for them and I have never stripped a cheesehead since.
Bruce Ward was kind enough to tell me about these and I can't thank him enough.
They came thru doing clutch jobs, flywheel jobs, head jobs and not once have I been not been able to reuse the old bolts.
They are available at a bunch of places. Here are a few links.

http://www.vimtools.com/Catalog/2007...%20Catalog.pdf

http://www.shopping.com/xGS-Vim%203%...CLT=XPO1&BSC=1

Get them. You willbe happy you did. The price is the same as 1 Snap-on socket

Raj

kwikt

Just got back from the local Ace hardware with the new allen bolt and ready to tackle it again. If I can't remove the cam gear.... she's going back together with just the new timing belt, balance belt, tensioner and rollers. BTW the cam sprockets look good but can't really see the cam pads. Then do it again at a later date. If I do get the gear off,,,, how do you compress the cam chain tensioner. Thanks!!

968turbos2

If you PM me I will give you my MSN and I have a camera in the garage if you plan to do it and can show you what you have to do and how so you can decide whether you want to tackle this now. Just listening to your issues, I would recommend to talk with someone who knows. Do not rely on what you read only or you may end up being sorry. BTW, hold off on the sand paper for a sec.

A special tool placed on the tensioner first keeps it in place for camshaft removal/installation.

In the photo you can see the red circles that surround the tool (parts of it you can see) Once installed the tool is removed and you can set valve lift. The blue circles show allen pegs that you unscrew in order to slide the tensioner pad off.

RajDatta

This the correct tool to do the job. Once compressed, this keeps the variocam compressed and allows you to slide it between the cam chain and you are supposed to remove it after the variocam unit has been bolted back on to the head.



Another one with the tool still on the tensioner while the variocam unit gets bolted to the head.





Arash, should have the DIY ready soon. I just sent you a PM with contact info if you need additional help.

Raj

CarbonRevo

Man...non-variocam tensioners are soo much easier!

kwikt

Well finally got the cam gear off with a little light tapping from the back side. I got the new chain and pads installed along with the cams and timing belt. I think I dodged a bullet! While compressing the cam tensioner, one of the old pads cracked into pieces as if crystalized. Further inspection showed a .030 groove from the old chain. I do believe the pads have never been changed(112,000 miles) and it was only a matter of time before something major went wrong. Thank God I stuck with the overhaul! Also many thanks to "968TurboS for the support and info.Should be back up and running tomorrow, I hope.


Kevin

RajDatta

Kevin, I am glad it all worked out.
BTW, attached is a picture of what I was talking about. This is the easiest way to get TDC.



Good luck and enjoy your fresh ride .
Raj

FRporscheman

LOL - so that's where the TDC marker is on a 968. I spent hours trying to find the mark through the top of the bellhousing, like the 944's mark.

This job looks like a lot of fun with the special tools but don't be discouraged if you don't have them. I don't have any of them (not even a flywheel lock) and I get by fine-and-dandy, but maybe I'm just strong in the Force.

CarbonRevo

Damn Arash, no flywheel lock? How the hell do you undo the cam gear bolt?

FRporscheman

Some may believe my method is unwise, or it's too troublesome, but I believe it is better and easier than other methods. Just my opinion though

I take off the belt, and drop the pants, no just kidding.

I take off the belt, then put a small 2x4 block on the fender gutter channel, then I put a crescent wrench (aka adjustable wrench) on the hexagonal cam sprocket washer (968) or the nut-shaped collar (8v). The wrench is put on so that it's close to the wood block, then you just turn the cam a few degrees until the wrench is jammed against the block (a few degrees is OK). Now the cam is being counter-held solidly. It seems ghetto but if you think about it, it's a lot more stable than using a (somewhat) elastic belt as your counterhold.

The question you *should* be asking is, how the heck do I take off the crank bolt? Actually this one is easy, no sweat. Immensely harder than that is undoing flywheel bolts with no flywheel lock. Ugh.

CarbonRevo

lol...well I've never had to removed the crank bolt, so I wouldn't know how much of a bitch that would be without a lock...but I can picture it. lol

You do have a point about not wanting to use the belt, but man...What happens if you F up and somehow you rotate the cams way off? lol