Zirconocene

Hi there all-

I'm (mostly) following this DIY procedure (https://rennlist.com/forums/968-foru...ispreloading=1) to install new cam tensioner pads and chain, as well as set up the timing, eventually. However, I am stuck at getting the chains off the camshafts. Every DIY I can find just says to compress the tensioner and remove the cams, without much more detail. So, a few questions:

1) To compress the 968 tensioner, does one press on the chains over the pads? I was looking for other contact points but nothing seems reasonable.
2) How much will the tensioner compress? Is it possible to go too far and break things? I really want to avoid that.

The new IWIS chain that I bought does not have colored links. When I reinstall, can someone verify that I'm thinking about this the right way?:

3) The total number of links (5) that are necessary to have between the cam gears pretty much means that the middle link must be centered on the top tensioner pad, correct?
4) The arrows on the cams should be pointed at the middle of the attached link (links 1 and 7).
5) Do you set up the distance and teeth on top, then retension the assembly, and let the bottom part of the cam gears end up "as they will" (sorry, I don't know how to put that in a better way, I hope you know what I mean).

Finally, the WSM indicates that reinstallation of the cams should be done with the engine at 45 degrees before TDC;

6) can I just reinstall everything with piston 1 at TDC?

OK, that's it for now. As always, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Daditude

Hi. Its been a little bit since I did this job but here goes:
1) To compress the 968 tensioner, does one press on the chains over the pads? I was looking for other contact points but nothing seems reasonable.

The threads generally advise using a couple of C-Clamps with the tension acting on the newly installed variocam pads - I did that once and then for some reasons I had to pull it out again and the second time I just compressed the pads by hand- both camshafts have to be elevated (not flat on the workbench) so I rested them so they were at a 45 degree angle and just squeezed the pads together and I was JUST able to compress them enough that i could slip the chain on. Even with the c-clamp method I don't think there is any way you can compress them enough to hurt the actually variocam - the pads would crack first but I don't think there is much danger of that.


2) How much will the tensioner compress? Is it possible to go too far and break things? I really want to avoid that.
Above

The new IWIS chain that I bought does not have colored links. When I reinstall, can someone verify that I'm thinking about this the right way?:

3) The total number of links (5) that are necessary to have between the cam gears pretty much means that the middle link must be centered on the top tensioner pad, correct?
See below
4) The arrows on the cams should be pointed at the middle of the attached link (links 1 and 7).
Yes when set up correctly each of the arrows would be pointed at the center of a link, with 5 links in between them. The middle link would be basically centered on the top tensioner pad but its a mistake to focus on that I think - you could easily be a tooth off and not be able to tell if you are looking at the tensioner - focus on the arrows pointing to the middle of their respective links.

5) Do you set up the distance and teeth on top, then retension the assembly, and let the bottom part of the cam gears end up "as they will" (sorry, I don't know how to put that in a better way, I hope you know what I mean).
- The chain will have no slack when its on the cams correctly so as long as you've got the arrows lined up you won't have to worry about the bottom of the cam gears or the chain.

Finally, the WSM indicates that reinstallation of the cams should be done with the engine at 45 degrees before TDC;

6) can I just reinstall everything with piston 1 at TDC?
Yep - thats just to make sure the valves don't hit anything I found it much easier to get piston to TDC and then get put the cams in correctly.

Good luck with the job. I did the headgasket and oil filter gasket while I was in there but that requires yanking the exhaust manifold in addition to the rest of the job.

OK, that's it for now. As always, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
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