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We going out for an evening on the town. Realized I forgot my phone right after pulling out of the driveway. Weren't around the block and returned. Noticed a wet trail leaving my driveway. Checked under the hood when I got in the garage. Sure enough, power steering fluid (dex3) was low. I had noticed that peppery smell when it pulled in after work. Had a leak in the past that I cured but simply tightening clamp on one of the hoses. Noticed since fluid on my garage floor from earlier...looked like it has some water in it.
Picked up some dex 3, but as I drove home the car started making weird noise, then my warning light pops on and I'm overheating. Luckily my neighborhood is hilly and I coasted home. Pop the hood and I can hear a hiss. Coming from the same side of the engine as the power steering rack...from the oil pressure sender?
Also I'm losing coolant all of a sudden...down about half and it was full about 2 days ago when I checked oil.
Here's a pic of where the steam was spewing from... Steam coming out between the white and black surfaces on the circled item. It's this the oil pressure sender?
A weak point on the 968. A new spare stays in the rear of mine. You don’t walk into the average parts store and walk out with a 968 heater valve.
Cliff
Any additional information? I was able to find additional information on this part, but it doesn't sound like it's failure would cause my problem. I mean, someone did say that coolant can leak through there when it fails, but could I lose half of my coolant in 48 hours?
Is there anything that can cause problems with both the steering fluid and the coolant?
Also, it seemed like there was still vacuum, as when I opened my coolant reservoir cap the hissing stopped immediately and all the steam came out of the coolant reservoir.
Any additional information? I was able to find additional information on this part, but it doesn't sound like it's failure would cause my problem. I mean, someone did say that coolant can leak through there when it fails, but could I lose half of my coolant in 48 hours?
Is there anything that can cause problems with both the steering fluid and the coolant?
I am going to answer my own question. I looked into this more and after reading a lot of posts, it does seem like failure of the valve can lead to a "coolant dump." The valve is still closing when the engine is running...so it still seems to be working? Nevertheless, I am going to pick up one of those all metal ones that Pelican sells...looks like it was designed for a supercharged 928, but it can also be used to replace the 968 part.
Actually broke out my shop light and what I thought was the coolant level in the reservoir was not...my coolant seems to all be gone. It wasn't a few days ago. So I guess it was the valve and my coolant was all dumped. I put in an email to my shop to find out what they used when replacing my coolant a couple of months ago when they did some other work for me.
I read in another thread where a coolant dump can ruin your clutch. Anything I can do to mitigate any such damage, even if the coolant already dumped?
G11 and refresh it every 3-4 years before the pH goes up. (the FLAPS carry pentofrost nf (8114117 is 1.5L) around here but I always call ahead, ask them to visually check their stock and get that persons name to avoid a goose chase.)
G12 and 13 start at a higher pH which eventually make the plastic parts brittle.
coolant is slippery but the heater valve is not at the back of the head like prior models.
G11 and refresh it every 3-4 years before the pH goes up. (the FLAPS carry pentofrost nf (8114117 is 1.5L) around here but I always call ahead, ask them to visually check their stock and get that persons name to avoid a goose chase.)
G12 and 13 start at a higher pH which eventually make the plastic parts brittle.
coolant is slippery but the heater valve is not at the back of the head like prior models.
Good to know. I imagine that's what my local shop used. I'll check, just to be sure. If they were using something different, I'll do a flush.
Ordered the all metal valve from 928 Motorsports. So I'll read up on the procedure for removing and replacing that this next week. Hopefully this will fix my problem.
G11 and refresh it every 3-4 years before the pH goes up. (the FLAPS carry pentofrost nf (8114117 is 1.5L) around here but I always call ahead, ask them to visually check their stock and get that persons name to avoid a goose chase.)
G12 and 13 start at a higher pH which eventually make the plastic parts brittle.
coolant is slippery but the heater valve is not at the back of the head like prior models.
I was finally able to speak to someone at my local shop. They use Protec universal coolant that's green. They say they buy this stuff in bulk. I'm having a hard time finding any information on this stuff. The only place I have seen anything is the Chinese Amazon (Alibaba). You can find various types of Protec coolant. I came across this one: https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...004088387.html. It is "universal coolant" and green. According to the label, it is G11. So, if I can confirm this, then it doesn't matter if the G11 I find is blue, I can mix it, right? That being said, I would really like to confirm that I'm looking at the right stuff. It would be nice not to have to flush the system, as it sounds like a messy job. Not a huge deal, but I don't like doing work just to do it, if you know what I mean.
Have you ever heard of this stuff? Protec? I see there's a German company called Protec that sells chemicals for cars...but I don't this product on their site.
I would flush it with distilled water 3x then use pentafrost nf.
mercedes and subaru coolants of that era are similar.
the silicates in the proper coolant scrub the aluminum oxide that form in the passages to keep the heat transfer at the optimum level. it is good for three or four years.
I would flush it with distilled water 3x then use pentafrost nf.
mercedes and subaru coolants of that era are similar.
the silicates in the proper coolant scrub the aluminum oxide that form in the passages to keep the heat transfer at the optimum level. it is good for three or four years.
Ok, I can do that. Pour the water in, open the bleader valve, start the engine, turn it off when the fan kicks on, drain, repeat?
10-15-2021, 11:36 PM
968 water pump kaput?
