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I want to remove my alternator on my 92’ 968. I think it makes the most sense to remove it top side.
My question is whether anyone has removed it without also removing the throttle body? I know that coolant flows through the throttle body and if removed I need to replace the two rubber O-rings where it meets the intake. I’d rather not go that route because I’d have to drain the coolant but just want to know if I have to, should I remove it topside.
Also, what torque would I use on the four throttle body bolts?
It would be much simpler to take it out from the bottom like it was intended. The belt tensioner really needs to be done from the bottom, so at that point, it's much simpler to just finish the job that way.
Removed mine from the top side.
I did not remove the throttle body.
I removed their box and moved the MAF. But, it is a very tight fit. There is only one "magic" position that will allow it ti come out. Other than that it was no problem.
Good time to replace the cable for it. The insulation on mine was complete dust - very lucky car didn't burn up
Good time to replace the cable for it. The insulation on mine was complete dust - very lucky car didn't burn up
Good luck
I think they are all dust waiting for the right conditions....I was cleaning up the engine bay with some simple green and washed away with cold water and when the water got down the jacket that was enough to cause the car to "walk" up the driveway a few hours later while sitting in gear and pressed itself up against the plastic trash bins pinning them to the fence. Lucky it was in 1st and not Reverse or it may not have stopped until it finally "walked" into my neighbors yard.
Once you open that wire loom you will be scratching your head wondering who designed this brilliant piece with a copper conductor with effectively no sheathing but a clear cellophane wrapper thats nowhere to be found in this late stage up against an 18 guage wire with significant heat/mileage cycles on it. I suppose money WAS saved.
It would be much simpler to take it out from the bottom like it was intended. The belt tensioner really needs to be done from the bottom, so at that point, it's much simpler to just finish the job that way.
Didn’t know that’s what was intended as when I look at it topside it just looks so tight going from the bottom however I think I remember removing it from the bottom on my 944. Just looks much tighter on the 968. It might be easier going from the bottom and if it is I’ll just go that route. And I can’t imagine the belt tensioner being done from the top anyway.
Removed mine from the top side.
I did not remove the throttle body.
I removed their box and moved the MAF. But, it is a very tight fit. There is only one "magic" position that will allow it ti come out. Other than that it was no problem.
Good time to replace the cable for it. The insulation on mine was complete dust - very lucky car didn't burn up
Good luck
So is there a part number for that cable or would I have to have one made? Or do you know the section of the parts catalog I’d have to look to? Sorry I’ve never had to do that on any of my 944’s so I’m not familiar with this task. Will keep you posted on what I see and how I proceed. Thank you for all the responses.
So is there a part number for that cable or would I have to have one made? Or do you know the section of the parts catalog I’d have to look to? Sorry I’ve never had to do that on any of my 944’s so I’m not familiar with this task. Will keep you posted on what I see and how I proceed. Thank you for all the responses.
Forgot to mention that I did remove the alternator topside. It really did seem easier that way and took about five minutes to maneuver it out after removing the air box and setting the AFM aside. And I did remove the belt tensioner from the bottom.
If I we’re going to remove the alternator from the bottom I would’ve had to remove the AC compressor from its mount. Instead I removed the two mounting bolts and wiggled it low enough to relieve tension and get to the rear alternator bolt while leaving the compressor mounted without its bolts. Thanks for the help!
And the alternator did turn out to be bad and in need of a rebuild. Replaced the voltmeter and it still wasn’t working. Rebuild completed by Inland Alternator and Starter in Riverside for a killer price; no affiliation.
Based on the condition of mine, and several others I’ve seen online, I’d say yes. They’ve been baking in there for 30 years.
Good stuff, I ordered them yesterday and they should be here soon. It should also be said that the link above is not for the correct A/S harness; it’s actually meant for use in an LS V8 modification.
I changed mine out yesterday, Very simple ,straight forward procedure. Dont worry, none of the hose clamps had been tightened when the 1st pic was taken
Removed it from the top. In fact the only 2 thingsI did from under the car was remove/reinstall the belt and remove the lower alternator bolt/ nut combo. I did not have to remove any water hoses, I moved aside the AFM, and the air filter box. neither were removed from the car, just disconnected and moved aside.
Got the 911 project stop engine oil leaks off the ground also yesterday. This will be a bit more time consuming
09-04-2021, 09:52 PM
Question on alternator removal
