Thanks Charlie. I am looking foreword to having this car running correctly. It hasn't in the three years I've owned it. HOPEFULLY this will fix the issues I've been having.

 

Hey thanks so much for this thread, will be putting the cams back in my 968 soon and will make a base like you described! One question. The Porsche workshop manual suggests a bent stem dial gauge extension is needed. Is a standard mag based gauge with straight probe suitable for use with your base?

Steve

 

I'm not sure if you could use a straight probe, maybe you could make it work but I doubt it. There's very little room for the probe to sit on the
Lifter and you need to come in at an angle or your probe would probably be hitting the cam lobe while it's turning.

I got this one.
https://www.928gt.com/ps-26013-30-to...ion-85-95.aspx

 

Thanks so much for the input I’ll get one. I’m trying to work out in my head how linear movement of the lifter is converted to movement on the dial stem accurately going around an angle. Guess it will be clearer when I play with the tools!

Steve

 

You have to make sure the vertical part of the probe is lined up with the vertical movement of the valve stem.

 

OK thanks will do!

 

Hey Jerry, why don't you do us a video? It would be nice to have a 968 timing video for others to follow.

 

I haven't even done the timing yet myself. I'm learning as I go. But I will try and record it. It doesn't seem too difficult. Lord knows we need more 968 diy stuff. You type anything in YouTube or even google and it's like 98% 944 related.

 

Agreed on that one. 968 somehow gets translated into 944 even though there are often big differences. Then it’s a game of guess if it’s the same. If you get even a still photo of the gauge set up it would be wonderful to see it! I’m going to put my refurbished head on in a few weeks time after a vacation and am getting close to belt gear and cam reassembly. Finalising the rather lengthy parts collection as we speak

 

I just goggled the Clarks 944/951/968 web site. and its still up and operational. Dean 924 has kept it up and is maintaining it by updating it on a regular time frame. This is a good source for reqd info.

 

Can you guys answer a couple questions for me?

1) When I reinstall the cams is it ok for the engine to be at top dead center instead of the 45 degrees before TDC like the manual states??

2) what's the best way to apply the loctite 574 to the saddle? Do I put it on the saddle and the engine case or just the saddle? Do I make a bead or do I spread it on like a thin film over the whole peice?

3) I did some trial runs today installing the cam shaft seal and that black cam hole cover. The manual says to install after the saddle has been tightened down. Can I do that without the special tools? If so what's the best way? I reinstalled the old ones for practice and honestly I could just press them in with my fingers. Or should I use a socket to press them in?

4) anyone have a picture of the coat hanger wire used to squeeze the chain tensioner together when your reinstalling the cams?

 

1. The reason to have the engine at (anywhere around) 45 deg. BTDC is so the pistons are down in the bore. You want them down so there's no chance of any valves hitting the piston when installing the cams prior to finalizing your cam timing. Install the cams in the position shown in the factory manual, then slowly turn the crank (and pistons) up to TDC without the belt attached to the cam. Once there, attach the belt and follow the factory procedure.
2. There's no need to coat both surfaces with 574. Just do the cam cap(s).
3. It's a little easier to install the seal and black cap before your caps are torqued. Just make sure they are all the way in place before you torque. No need for any tool if done this way.
4. It's Porsche tool 9530, and yes, you can make one from a coat hanger. Sorry, no pic.

 

Thanks for the response Michael.

If I already have the engine at top dead center and If put the cams in the same way they came out wouldn't that ensure that nothing would hit?

Also, I can't really turn the crank to get the engine at 45 dbtc because the pistons will be going up and down and the valves won't be moving. Wouldn't that pretty much guarantee that the valves are going to hit the pistons?

 

Hope you don’t mind an additional question 😀. If the cams are first installed and the engine later turned to TDC, that inevitably involves going a touch past TDC if using a dial gauge to detect TDC. Is it ok to then turn the engine backwards and position again at exact TDC if using the dial gauge method?

Steve

 

Yes, fine to go a little past to find TDC. Just be sure to turn slowly and if there's any resistance (valve against piston), stop!