Cloud9...68

Thanks - yes, I understand that using a hosting site should work - just haven't gotten around to doing it. I'll try going through the steps you outline.

Cloud9...68

Isaacsracing,

Would you mind sharing what sorts of suspension mods you have on your car: Solid/spherical bushings? Camber plates? Adjustable sway bars? Ride height? Anything to compensate for the subterranean front roll center that results when significantly lowering your car? Bracing/cage? Front/rear spring rates? Front/rear wheel/tire sizes? Thanks - since you're not racing the car competitively (neither am I with mine - strictly track sessions), hopefully none of this stuff is "secret", and I'd be glad to share what I've done to compare notes, and hopefully inspire others to do the same.

pmcrespo

Thanks everyone for all the kind words across the board on #75 and the driving. Awesome cars; #75 just makes all my driving mistakes look like they never happened... she makes me look better than I deserve. Trying to get back to racing after a few years barely getting any track time so I don't think I'll be setting any new track records any time soon, but hopefully will get to cross paths again with some of you. Thinking Lime Rock, NJMP, Glen, VIR, but would love to do COTA and Daytona again.... we shall see... Probably GT5 albeit still will be way under-powered.

I missed hanging out with Terry by missing COTA, but even worse, I missed crossing paths with Cloud968 by not being able to connect while we were both there!!! We need to change all that and start doing our own 968 corrals at events whether DE or races...

PS: Sorry about that Linked-In spam email T. That's what I get for working a linked-in request on my iPhone while stepping into a plane. But imagine some of my ex-girlfriends faces when they also got it...! And my reaction when I realized some of the people that were getting it! LOL... Bad, really bad... Needless to say, I am ultra careful now....

rap

Isaacsracing

Today I get a lot of the rear end back in the car. It was a long and inefficient day. I think Thomas had mentioned getting the emergency brake cable in prior to raising the torsion tube. I only put half in - that was a big mistake!
Here's a question for all you experts out there.
The lines that go to the rear hub, which I think are ABS sensors, are supposed to be secured in place in those metal plates, but my lines are missing the rubber fitting that would do that. I imagine that some type of silicone or polyurethane can be used to protect the lines and keep it in place. Here's a picture. Thoughts?



Hey Cloud9! There are no secrets! I'll do the best I can:
Bilstein Escort Cup shocks, front and rear. Spring rate 900 front / 700 rear
M030 Front and rear sways with Racers Edge drop pinks and components
Had Delrin in the rear spring plate which I just replaced with Elephant Racing Polybronze bushings
Racers Edge Camber plates (front)
Racing dynamics upper chassis brace
Cage is not attached to the suspension. It is a full cage welded in. Pretty standard, but has a brace above the dash, which makes me feel safe!
Square set up 275/40R17 on 17x9.5 Porsche Cup 1 wheels.
Racers Edge A arm spherical bearings, front
RS BARN lower chassis brace
Elephant Racing Rear monoball trailing arm bearing
The car is lower than stock and height adjustable via the coilovers. I'm not sure what the actual ride height is.
What do you mean by: "Anything to compensate for the subterranean front roll center ..."

Next up for me is to redo these CV joints. Any words of wisdom?

951and944S

LOL, no problem, you and about 100 others have showed up in my inbox from time to time.
I think, really, the root is that LinkedIn grabs your whole address book and spams everyone in it.
Probably nothing specific that you did.

Maybe one day we can secure you a rental in SP3 where you can come race in class.

T

951and944S

CVs are pretty easy and self explanatory but after cleaning and checking ***** and pockets, before assembling back on shaft with external lock ring, put your CV grease (you may need more) into a tough plastic bag with each piece, one at a time and knead (massage or squeeze with the hands) them until packed with grease. Keeps your hands clean.

Are your struts and shocks all mounted....?
Interesting those springs, did you happen to notice any valving numbers (on most shocks it's on gland nut)....?
I didn't think Escort Cup were valved (unless custom) to even control springs that stiff.

Touchy topic, but way out of whack Fr/Rr IMO.

What was weight of car listed in log book...?

T

Isaacsracing

Makes sense on using a bag for the grease.
The car was set up as 3055 with driver. I've put a second seat back in, took balast out and had the car weighed (not on super accurate scales) at 2850.
I thought the 900/700 was pretty strange, but Joel said that he had played with a bunch of other rates and found this to be the fastest. I haven't driven other 968s on the track, so I can't compare.
Not sure on valving at all, but that seems like a good question. I'll look.
Y'all have some serious knowledge!!

951and944S

While the springs seem strange to me, I wouldn't go jumping to any conclusions until you are finished and actually get to track the car.

The main criteria for you is consistency.
Speed and lap times are secondary. You have to be able to turn consecutive laps at consistent braking points, turn in, exit placement, etc. to be able to make a valid judgement.
Making random changes without having a consistent base is futile.
Not really sure about those particular shocks adjustability....., all you might have is internal valving.
Shocks are fine tune implements, which is why, in your case, it'd be really important to have the balance dialed in from the get-go.

T

Isaacsracing

I did get 14 track days last year!
I agree that consistency is the goal. I feel as though I'm still getting used to the car. The real consistency issue for me has been the pedals.

I find the brake pedal to be long - the brakes works, but still long. And the position of the gas pedal too close in relation to the brake pedal for consistent heal - toe. The gas pedal has adjustment, but I've moved it as far away as possible already. I'm thinking of taking the gas pedal out and remounting the floor bolts further away. I haven't really looked into how feasible that is. I'm also thinking of working out a Wilwood master cylinder that might shorten the pedal, but I don't want to go too far and lose the modulation ability.

I'm a little fearful of messing up the brake balance and brake feel with the wrong stuff. Any recommendations??

mj951

I installed a set of Rennline pedals including the adjustable throttle pedal which helped set up for heel toe.
They don't help with the long brake pedal unfortunately but the slotted floor mount on the throttle pedal allows you to adjust the distance to the brake pedal and 'set' the blip.
The aluminum floor plate has since been replaced with plywood. Noticeably softer on the heel.

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Rev...uctinfo/A12.2/

951and944S

Had a buddy fight a long pedal a while back but it was after swapping '90 S2 drivetrain into an early tub after a crash.
I think it was a matter of clevis adjustment.

I guess we have been lucky, even swapping out a tub ourselves, never had a problem with brake pedal height.
Everything in working order and bled properly, the 944 pedal seems perfect to me in all cars I've owned.

Same with positions of others (I'm 6'3").
Perfect for heel/toe.
Covered this before many times, but I use more the side of my foot on throttle, not actual heel.

T

Yogii

I always thought the " Heel & Toe" was heel on the brake and toe on the gas? WDIK.

How do you find the clutch throw?

-Yogii
AKA 968 Virgin

Cloud9...68

My experience (and technique) matches 951and944S's.

951and944S

Common for people to think that. It'd be a struggle for precise modulation on the brake pedal though.

Clutch pedal travel not a problem for me, my legs are long enough to pedal through the floor ala Fred Flintstone if I had to.

T