968 curious
#16
Rennlist Member
Essentially the same process. I think there was some addL chasis stiffening on the 968, but not sure of exact differences.
#17
Addict
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I do not think I have heard that the 968 cab got any additional stiffening from the 944 Cab but it has different front fenders and hood and front core support, etc. so maybe that counts. I've had both an S2 and 968 cab and did not notice one being stiffer than the other. I'm quite impressed by how stiff the chassis is.
Last edited by Jfrahm; 02-15-2018 at 01:56 PM.
#19
Rennlist Member
Thomasryan is correct but actually there is a page on floor reinforcement and a page on side panel and windshield frame reinforcements. These were designed to stiffen the body and windshield (rollover). The 968 cab actually is a pretty tight body (wait, can I say that today? #carswithtightbodies) compared with many other cabs.
#20
Rennlist Member
Dont think the front fenders and hood are any different than coupe.. Certainly has different doors with small triangle windows and no frame around glass where it meets the roof. The cowl/windshield frame I believe that I read is slightly taller, never measured. Antenna is in the windshield. Several floor board stiffening pieces. Link to floorboard stiffening pieces http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=801-07
#22
Racer
an employee at a Porsche dealership told me late last week that the 968 cab began as a coupe. Then, an aftermarket supplier was contracted to cut the coup roof off and install the convertible top hardware. I do not know the validity of the employees statement. i had not heard this before. could be fake old news.
#23
Rennlist Member
an employee at a Porsche dealership told me late last week that the 968 cab began as a coupe. Then, an aftermarket supplier was contracted to cut the coup roof off and install the convertible top hardware. I do not know the validity of the employees statement. i had not heard this before. could be fake old news.
Jeff at the 968 register site details this exactly. Check this link http://968register.org/production-data/cabriolets-2/
#24
You should be looking at 968/S2 coupes IMO, if you want to haul things the cab really is not your friend. Meanwhile the Coupe can haul tons of stuff. I can get 2 mountain bikes (wheels off) + gear in the back of my S2. This is great for longer drives as roof racks are hard to come by. I prefer to run clean anyways.
Have a space to work on the car, it WILL need attention and you will want to be able to do it yourself! The 968 motor has the hydro tensioner for the timing belt which makes it a lot easier to do as you don't need the special tool to check the tension of the belt. The cam pads on the chain in the head do also need to be changed every 60k or so on it, but those are cheap, i recommend doing them along with the first belt service if you don't have a record of it being done. The car IS reliable as hell so long as you keep up on it, i DD'd my s2 (w/ a 968 motor swap) for several years with minimal issues. I had a major incident once, but really it was my fault for not changing the belt soon enough after having a kickback on start up problem that was hard on the belt and shortened its life.
Have a space to work on the car, it WILL need attention and you will want to be able to do it yourself! The 968 motor has the hydro tensioner for the timing belt which makes it a lot easier to do as you don't need the special tool to check the tension of the belt. The cam pads on the chain in the head do also need to be changed every 60k or so on it, but those are cheap, i recommend doing them along with the first belt service if you don't have a record of it being done. The car IS reliable as hell so long as you keep up on it, i DD'd my s2 (w/ a 968 motor swap) for several years with minimal issues. I had a major incident once, but really it was my fault for not changing the belt soon enough after having a kickback on start up problem that was hard on the belt and shortened its life.
#25
Addict
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#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I finally had the opportunity to test drive a 968. Boy was I impressed!
The one thing, only thing, that I did not like; is that the clutch pedal has a very long travel. The clutch engagement point was well over 2/3 of the way up the total clutch pedal travel.
I almost backed into the car behind me on a hill.
Is the clutch engagement point easily adjusted?
Also does anybody know a good Porsche shop that could do a PPI on a prospective purchase car near San Jose, California?
Thanks,
Yogii
The one thing, only thing, that I did not like; is that the clutch pedal has a very long travel. The clutch engagement point was well over 2/3 of the way up the total clutch pedal travel.
I almost backed into the car behind me on a hill.
Is the clutch engagement point easily adjusted?
Also does anybody know a good Porsche shop that could do a PPI on a prospective purchase car near San Jose, California?
Thanks,
Yogii
#27
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
disclaimer, i've been around 944s for 13 years, have been a 944 mechanic for dozens of folks for over 10, and have extensive seat time driving all variants of 944 and 968.
were i car shopping i would avoid the cabs purely for the upkeep the top WILL require at some point, and repeatedly.
even living here in the land of great weather and eternal sunshine i prefer the hardtop (sunroof delete ideally) coupe.
968 cabs are very good to drive, though. the double-layer floorpan makes them quite stiff.
were i car shopping i would avoid the cabs purely for the upkeep the top WILL require at some point, and repeatedly.
even living here in the land of great weather and eternal sunshine i prefer the hardtop (sunroof delete ideally) coupe.
968 cabs are very good to drive, though. the double-layer floorpan makes them quite stiff.
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks V2Rocket,
Is the clutch engagement point adjustable? The one that I drove only engaged 3/4 of the way up. Hard to start on steep hills...
-Yogii
Is the clutch engagement point adjustable? The one that I drove only engaged 3/4 of the way up. Hard to start on steep hills...
-Yogii
#29
#30
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Actually the short answer is "sort of".
There is a pedal adjustment, with the threaded clevis at the top of the pedal, and this changes the length of the rod attaching the pedal to the brake master cylinder. The clutch disk will engage when it engages, but if you want the pedal a little higher or lower when this happens, you can make the rod a little longer or shorter, respectively. The range of adjustment is limited, because if you make the rod too long, it will keep pressure on the release bearing and your clutch will slip on acceleration. You can make the rod as short as you want but it will just increase the free play at the top of the pedal throw.
There is a factory spec for how much free play to have, and you really don't want less than that (which would give a higher engagement point). But you can have more free play if you wish, which would lower the engagement point, but you will need to push the pedal down further to fully disengage the clutch.
As spark1 says, some people have trouble with the long throw of the clutch pedal (this is so on all 944s and 968s). If it really bothers you, you could replace the clutch disk with a racing style disk - they lack the wavy spring layer in the center, which is what makes the clutch engagement so gradual (and long-throw).
I'm an enthusiast in the SF bay area, if you want help looking at 968s feel free to PM me.
There is a pedal adjustment, with the threaded clevis at the top of the pedal, and this changes the length of the rod attaching the pedal to the brake master cylinder. The clutch disk will engage when it engages, but if you want the pedal a little higher or lower when this happens, you can make the rod a little longer or shorter, respectively. The range of adjustment is limited, because if you make the rod too long, it will keep pressure on the release bearing and your clutch will slip on acceleration. You can make the rod as short as you want but it will just increase the free play at the top of the pedal throw.
There is a factory spec for how much free play to have, and you really don't want less than that (which would give a higher engagement point). But you can have more free play if you wish, which would lower the engagement point, but you will need to push the pedal down further to fully disengage the clutch.
As spark1 says, some people have trouble with the long throw of the clutch pedal (this is so on all 944s and 968s). If it really bothers you, you could replace the clutch disk with a racing style disk - they lack the wavy spring layer in the center, which is what makes the clutch engagement so gradual (and long-throw).
I'm an enthusiast in the SF bay area, if you want help looking at 968s feel free to PM me.