maverick

Yup mine was in for the shifter repair and the LSD rebuild when the electronic fairies left the building!!!. Went with an upgrade shift linkage.....
Have received the second E68 controller from Cobalt so will be doing round two shortly.....

Metal Guru

My linkage was getting sloppy (that coupler design dates all the way back to the 356 days) so I went to a hooke joint (similar to the Goldenrod mod) and a short shift kit. Much better.

cobalt

It has been quite any info on the second unit?

maverick

Sorry...been very busy.....the second unit works but runs at a much higher rpm. Miss on cylinder 1 is still present so investigating to see what may be the cause....stand by hope to have an update shortly....

Metal Guru

Check the timing with a timing light. If the timing's ok re-set the idle air bypass screw to get 1000 rpm when the engine is warmed up.

maverick

Just my opinion but I think 1000 is a little high idle warm....850 ish...... but at this point I think we may be leaning towards rocker arm or broken springs since both controllers exhibit the same miss irrespective of rpm....waiting to pull valve covers to see what's going on....

Metal Guru

900 rpm +/- 50 rpm is the factory spec.
As I said, you can easily adjust the idle speed with idle air bypass screw.
Idle after heat soak can fall to 750. Turn on the a/c, it falls to 750.

maverick

Sorry guys for the lapse in coverage on this....hurricanes have a way of altering the course of things...happy to report none of the toys were compromised and house was safe from flood. There are many many people who were totally wrecked, so it sort of puts things in perspective relative to car problems.....
However an update for you....mechanic has identified the running problem, it's the engine intake manifold flange that have started to fall apart! They are made from a phenolic plastic material and it's just disintegrating allowing air to bypass the usual entry thus flooding the cylinders with air, especially #1. I have attached pictures to show the issue. Will replace all 6 as they are all in a state of deterioration...it's the bottom side that interfaces with the engine. I have also attached pictures of the engine controller with the new connectors....parts on order should be here Monday. Will take the time to also replace any hoses that look aged since we have the top end off.....oh and replace the engine heat pad that's impossible to get to with engine in place......
Still can't do multiple pics so will multi post......

maverick

Showing all 6

maverick

Controller in place(thanks again Anthony)...if you look closely at the plugs you can see the MB star......

cobalt

Glad to hear you weren't impacted too heavily by the storm. I recall how bad Sandy was and can't imagine the amount of rain you guys were hit with.

Those pictures are sobering. Never considered those going bad. Might be a good part for someone to make from billet although I assume the new ones will last another 20+ years.

Looking forward to hearing it is up and running again.

Metal Guru

The injector block on the #1 cylinder on my engine was cracked (obvious air leak; couldn't adjust the idle). The crack was in facing the back of the car, yet, smoking the intake didn't reveal it. When I replaced them, I spent a little time port matching them to gain .5 hp (actually it was more like 2-3 hp).
There are two sources of billet injector blocks that I'm aware of - GoingSuperFast (dubious quality, IMO) and Turbokraft (gold-plated parts given the price). If you need bigger blocks due to intake port enlargement your stuck spending the money. Otherwise the stock phenolic ones should be good for a few years.

maverick

...drum role........going to pick her up tonight.....stay tuned for summary and driving impressions soon��

heliolps2

maverick

......teaser...
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