964 Turbo as track car
#1
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Ok, I posted a similar question in the 993tt forum a few weeks back. Since then I've come to my senses and decided I don't want a 993tt, I think I want a 964 Turbo! (I loved my '93 NA 964 and am frankly more drawn to them then 993s). This car would be 80% track (DE) car, 20% weekend car for me. For those of you who track your 964 turbos, how is it? Specifically, I'm interested in hearing the longevity of items such as:
brake pads
brake rotors
CV joints
tires
...and anything else you'd like to note as a wear item.
I'm an experienced DE guy (instructor in multiple regions, clubs, and Zone 1 PCA), so I understand the 964 Turbo is not the best "bang for the buck". That said, I'd like to gauge the running cost for these cars.
I do not plan (or want) to rip the car apart. I might change the seats, etc., to lighten it a little bit. That said, what real world weights do you all see for your 964 Turbos?
Any encouragement for this idea? Discouragement? Any and all comments appreciated.
Thanks,
Charlie
brake pads
brake rotors
CV joints
tires
...and anything else you'd like to note as a wear item.
I'm an experienced DE guy (instructor in multiple regions, clubs, and Zone 1 PCA), so I understand the 964 Turbo is not the best "bang for the buck". That said, I'd like to gauge the running cost for these cars.
I do not plan (or want) to rip the car apart. I might change the seats, etc., to lighten it a little bit. That said, what real world weights do you all see for your 964 Turbos?
Any encouragement for this idea? Discouragement? Any and all comments appreciated.
Thanks,
Charlie
#2
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Dr.
3050 lbs for my 91 C2T with Porsche leather Recaro built"Turbo S" lt wt shell seats, no spare tire or tools, no back seat backs, bigger 18" RUF wheels, lighter full B&B system with a half tank of gas.
I think stock is around 3200 lbs.
I would like to sell it!
It would be a prefect track car with over $30k in mods it has bigger 13" brakes w big reds, full RUF/cup suspension kit, euro injection, bigger S2 inter-cooler, SC cams, and other goodies.
GP white w tan & black interior including the matching leather race seats with color to match shells.
Has all the goodies. Excellent compression & leak-down!
Just add roll bar, DOT race tires, fire bottle, I have a set of new 5 points in a box and go!
I am a motivated seller located in Sacramento. Contact me if interested at:
Keith 916.482.1801
or
Keith@AcquisitionPartners.com
PS sorry for the advert...
3050 lbs for my 91 C2T with Porsche leather Recaro built"Turbo S" lt wt shell seats, no spare tire or tools, no back seat backs, bigger 18" RUF wheels, lighter full B&B system with a half tank of gas.
I think stock is around 3200 lbs.
I would like to sell it!
It would be a prefect track car with over $30k in mods it has bigger 13" brakes w big reds, full RUF/cup suspension kit, euro injection, bigger S2 inter-cooler, SC cams, and other goodies.
GP white w tan & black interior including the matching leather race seats with color to match shells.
Has all the goodies. Excellent compression & leak-down!
Just add roll bar, DOT race tires, fire bottle, I have a set of new 5 points in a box and go!
I am a motivated seller located in Sacramento. Contact me if interested at:
Keith 916.482.1801
or
Keith@AcquisitionPartners.com
PS sorry for the advert...
#3
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Dear Charlie,
You will be replacing brake rotors, pads and tyres fairly often. A huge amount depends upon how you hit the track but I have to warn you that these itmes are weekend consumables if you race.
CV joints I have not heard of any significant problems with. Regular inspections of all components which are under stress is recommended. Rear half shafts need to kept an eye on. There have been a couple of failures recently. Incorrectly installed and overstressed sway bars as well.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
You will be replacing brake rotors, pads and tyres fairly often. A huge amount depends upon how you hit the track but I have to warn you that these itmes are weekend consumables if you race.
CV joints I have not heard of any significant problems with. Regular inspections of all components which are under stress is recommended. Rear half shafts need to kept an eye on. There have been a couple of failures recently. Incorrectly installed and overstressed sway bars as well.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
Last edited by Adrian; 10-07-2003 at 04:39 PM.
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I was thinking about 5 days for pads, 20 days for rotors, and about 9 days for tires. Not realistic?
Also, I'm not sure what you mean about halfshafts other than my question about CV joints. For all intents and purposes I consider them the same issue. Once/season replacement? More frequent/less frequent?
Also, I'm not sure what you mean about halfshafts other than my question about CV joints. For all intents and purposes I consider them the same issue. Once/season replacement? More frequent/less frequent?
#5
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Changed to yellow pagid break pads in the front early this season.
I have since then spend 65 laps on the Ring (that's about 10 hours of effective driving) another 4-5 hours on other tracks and about 7K miles of spirited driving.
I still have about 4mm left on the front break pads!
I had new rotors in the front for this season as well, they will have to be changed this winter, not because of wear but because of cracks. I blame the pagid pads for that, will probably try the Performance Friction pads next time or "softer" Pagid pads.
I bleed my brakes after each track event, I changed brake fluid 3 or 4 times this season, I changed oil once and will change oil again before parking the car for the winter.
My Conti Sport Contact 2 lasted the whole season including all the drivingt on tracks. I have to admit that there where wearn down to the cord when I changed them a few weeks ago. I will use R-rated tires next season, they will wear faster I think.
I am no expert but I would think when using the car on the track alot you should really make sure the car isn't running to lean, change oil often and adjust your valves more often than your service book recommends.
I think the car is a lot of fun on the track but it's heavy which makes the brakes to run hotter than they should. I need to cool down the breaks after 10-20 minutes of driving depending on the track.
I have since then spend 65 laps on the Ring (that's about 10 hours of effective driving) another 4-5 hours on other tracks and about 7K miles of spirited driving.
I still have about 4mm left on the front break pads!
I had new rotors in the front for this season as well, they will have to be changed this winter, not because of wear but because of cracks. I blame the pagid pads for that, will probably try the Performance Friction pads next time or "softer" Pagid pads.
I bleed my brakes after each track event, I changed brake fluid 3 or 4 times this season, I changed oil once and will change oil again before parking the car for the winter.
My Conti Sport Contact 2 lasted the whole season including all the drivingt on tracks. I have to admit that there where wearn down to the cord when I changed them a few weeks ago. I will use R-rated tires next season, they will wear faster I think.
I am no expert but I would think when using the car on the track alot you should really make sure the car isn't running to lean, change oil often and adjust your valves more often than your service book recommends.
I think the car is a lot of fun on the track but it's heavy which makes the brakes to run hotter than they should. I need to cool down the breaks after 10-20 minutes of driving depending on the track.
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You could look at the CVs and the rest of the half shaft as one unit. I do not but it really doesn't matter cause if the shaft or if one of the CVs fail (normally due to lack of lubrication) the whole unit has to be replaced unless you have access to a racing team with specialised inhouse repairs for such items.
How fast you wear out your consumable components is going to be determined by the use of your feet. I have a colleague who trashed a set of tyres, two sets of pagid yellows and a complete set of rotors in one weekend and 600 km of track work in France.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
How fast you wear out your consumable components is going to be determined by the use of your feet. I have a colleague who trashed a set of tyres, two sets of pagid yellows and a complete set of rotors in one weekend and 600 km of track work in France.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
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Adrian,
Understood on the cv vs. halfshaft thing. Although it is not terribly hard to replace only one CV on the shaft, I agree that if one goes you should just replace both in which case you might as well replace the whole shaft. Nonetheless, any idea how long they last?
Staffan,
Good to hear on brake wear. Do you have any extra cooling to the brakes (cool brake kit or similar). You have stock brakes?
Thanks
Charlie
Understood on the cv vs. halfshaft thing. Although it is not terribly hard to replace only one CV on the shaft, I agree that if one goes you should just replace both in which case you might as well replace the whole shaft. Nonetheless, any idea how long they last?
Staffan,
Good to hear on brake wear. Do you have any extra cooling to the brakes (cool brake kit or similar). You have stock brakes?
Thanks
Charlie
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Hi !
Had quite a lot of fun this summer with 15 track days with a bit over 1 hour of track driving on average each time.
Changed R tyres during the course of the season (a bit less than 5000km) because I stupidly overheated them
Changed brake rotors once and will have to change again (warped). I don't have extra cooling so with Pagid blue they overheated
Changed brake pads once
Changed oil 3 times and did a 20 000 km service a bit ahead of time
wheel alignement
The car is stock except BBS LM 18 wheels and no mufler. it weights 1505kg with tank at 3/4 and driver
First on my to do list is brake cooling and try to shed some weight + take down the noise level some way (measured at 95decibel
)
I would say you end up with insurance and gaz spending around USD 100k on a season like this if (like me) you are afraid of geting your hands dirty
Had quite a lot of fun this summer with 15 track days with a bit over 1 hour of track driving on average each time.
Changed R tyres during the course of the season (a bit less than 5000km) because I stupidly overheated them
Changed brake rotors once and will have to change again (warped). I don't have extra cooling so with Pagid blue they overheated
Changed brake pads once
Changed oil 3 times and did a 20 000 km service a bit ahead of time
wheel alignement
The car is stock except BBS LM 18 wheels and no mufler. it weights 1505kg with tank at 3/4 and driver
First on my to do list is brake cooling and try to shed some weight + take down the noise level some way (measured at 95decibel
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I would say you end up with insurance and gaz spending around USD 100k on a season like this if (like me) you are afraid of geting your hands dirty
![Embarrassment](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
#11
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Originally posted by DrJupeman
I hope you meant $10k not $100k!
I hope you meant $10k not $100k!
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Charlie, I have stock brakes and no extra cooling, I have been looking into getting brake cooling, but for some reason I managed to spend all my "car money" (as much money I can get away with) on other things.