Hey guys,

Does anyone have a DIY for removing the WUR?

I would like to send my WUR to Brian Leask to get rebuilt and saving a little money and doing it on my own won't hurt!

Thanks again!

 

Here you go:

(1) disconnect the battery
(2) remove the intercooler (lots of stuff to unhook/unplug)
(3) remove the a/c compressor and set it on the back of the compartment opening
(4) loosen the 3 bolts that hold the air cleaner to the fuel distributor
(5) unhook both fuel lines from the wur (hold a rag over them so they don't spray you) and the electric connector that's plugged into the wur
(6) remove the two nuts on the wur mount
(7) remove the wur from the mount, pushing the air cleaner up as you do so. Because the wur is partially under the air cleaner, you might have to remove the air cleaner altogether to get the wur off.

You might want to cut the studs on the wur down so that there is only enough thread to hold the nuts on. That way you can remove it to adjust it without completely removing the air cleaner and a/c compressor.

 

Thanks MG, you're always helping me out!

Ill give it a whirl this weekend.

I haven't made up my mind on whether I want the adjustable unit. Do you feel it's helpful/worth it?

What tools/devices do you need to tune it properly?

Thanks!

 

You will need a CIS fuel pressure gauge (I bought a nice one off of Ebay) and an LM-1 (once again from Ebay and Innovate) or an LM-2. You will need to install a bung for the O2 sensor somewhere behind the turbo and run the lead up through the change tray in the center console.
Be sure to get the heavy duty diaphragm from Leask if your running boost higher than stock (.7 bar).
It's the best way to extract the most power from your car while safeguarding against engine damage due to lean conditions.

 

Yes get the adjustable. Definitely.

 

The WUR for this CIS system has a bit more going on inside then the 70/80's versions. Functionally they are the same but they have more controls to help with warm up. They are easy to take apart if you want to look inside.

Some things to consider when getting into the WUR;
- Is it functioning properly...as mentioned you'll need a CIS pressure meter and air pressure pump (to simulate boost) to evaluate your pressures. It is important to have the air pump so you can apply simulated boost pressure to record your system pressure drop. If you want to adjust this there is a brass insert in the bottom of the WUR that can be tapped down. Pressure drop is sensitive to the position so being careful is key.
- Do you need/want more fuel under boost...you'll need a wide band O2 meter to answer this question. Generally...if you are running stock exhaust this answer is no (I've seen our cars on the dyno with 1 bar boost springs no other changes and a perfectly dead flat afr reading below 12). If you have an after market exhaust this is when it gets interesting. With a good set of headers and free flowing muffler you will have changed the air flow of the engine. The fuel curve of the CIS system is no longer in sync with the motor requirements under load. Generally this is why the modified 930's typically have plenty of fuel mid range and lean out at red line.
- Do you want to run open loop (the 02 sensor disconnected) or closed loop (02 sensor connected)? I've tried both and each has it's advantages. Long story short I went with closed loop, the motor runs better all around.

My thoughts on an adjustable WUR is only if you need it...and you should consider including the rpm switch. If you adjust the WUR for the right amount of fuel at peak power/rpm then you run rich at peak torque. It's fun to play with this and the adjustable WUR makes this easier (but is not required).

Long story short...get a wide band O2 meter, pressure gauge, CIS pressure tester and start playing!

 

If you are referring to a in-car gauge, they are useless and dangerous for tuning.
It's better and safer to capture data and review it at your computer.
As for having an adjustable wur; if it needs rebuilding anyway, why not make it adjustable too? That way it's there if you do future engine mods.
Yup, forgot to mention the Mitivac for pressurizing the wur for boost control pressure setting. So that's three tools needed for wur tuning.

 

Hey Guys,

So I finally got around to tackling the WUR Removal project. The car has been giving me more and more trouble on cold starts so I figured this would be a good place to start. I plan on sending it out to Brian Leask for a rebuild.

Last night I removed the intercooler and AC compressor. I also loosed the nuts holding down the WUR.

Before I move any further I wanted to pick your brains regarding the removal of the factory airbox. I know there is a black bracket held in by three (3) nuts behind the WUR. Is there anything else holding it down? Looking at the PET diagram it looks like there is hex bolt on the top driver side of the airbox holding it down as well (Part #5 in the diagram).

Any other tips/tricks when it comes to removing it? (I'll probably replace the filter while I have it out).

I had two more quick questions:

In my second attachment (the first picture) I boxed out a device that was located behind the AC compressor. What is this? It seems to be loosely flopping around in the engine bay and I'd like to secure it somehow.

In the third attachment (second picture) there is a bolt located to the right of the throttle body plate. Is this some sort of adjustment? It isn't screwed down all the way and I just want confirmation on whether it should stay as is or if I should tighten it down.

Thanks for the help as always!

 

On the bracket in the illustration, only remove top nut as it's the only fastener holding the air cleaner at that point. On the top of the air cleaner over to the right, over the metering flap, are two 10 mm hex head bolts (#5 in the attached PET slide). Remove those too, pull the air cleaner toward you and unhook the two breather hoses in the back and remove the air cleaner.

2nd attachment: I believe that's part of the air injection system. The PET doesn't show a bracket for it.

3rd attachment: That's a blind hole in the manifold. Take that bolt out and throw it away if it bothers you.

 

Thanks Paul, as always!

 

Once you install the WUR again - tuning takes time. I suggest lengthening the small vacuum line to the WUR - makes removal/install easier. Also use cone filters on the fuel head and breathers until you get your AFR nailed down. Airbox gets in the way of removing/installing WUR.
Good time to get a new intercooler/TB o-ring.

I may have started a thread about this stuff a couple years ago - might be worth a quick search.

 

I just got it out!

I emailed Brian Leask, does anyone have a contact phone number for him?

I don't think I'm going to do the adjustable WUR, just a rebuild and a heavy duty diaphragm. I don't want to go through the tuning process and I like having the car fairly stock (especially with the value they are bringing these days).

My airbox filter is filthy, definitely going to replace that.

Thanks again for all the held guys.

 

That's why I shortened the studs that hold the WUR. I can leave the a/c compressor in place, loosen the filter housing but not take it out and pull the WUR off.

 

Does anyone else have a source that can rebuild the WUR?

I tried calling/emailing both Brian Leask and RarlyL8 Motorsports and there was no answer. I know Brian can be a little hard to get a hold of. I prefer not to have the car out of commission too long since its summertime.

Any leads would be appreciated.

EDIT: Nevermind I found several people that will rebuild them. For anyone else that may be looking to do this google "CIS Flowtech" or "Speacial T" auto. They will do a core exchange so you have minimal down time or will rebuild your own unit.

 

When mine failed (was a bit scarry the car kept accelerating on it's own, was lucky it happened at the track) I sent it there:
http://www.specialtauto.com/warm-up-regulators.html
You send yours and they sent you a remanufactured one that they already have in so it was quite fast.
Though as a disclaimer I have to say it was a few years back.

As mentionned the adjustements to get your car to run properly afterwards are time consuming.