Car sputters
#1
Car sputters
Just had a K29 turbo & plumbing switched out for a smaller k27 & plumbing along with switched out BB headers to new headers etc ...car is sputtering now continuously like it's missing ....do I need to get someone to adjust the fuel regulator as its getting to much fuel now? Could the plugs now be fouled because of this? Or with some highway driving will this fix itself?
Thanks !
Thanks !
#3
the other turbo went bad so had it replaced along with the new headers etc...all looks and sounds great except for the running rough deal...the guy who did the work does not have to tools for AFR etc...he did also replace all the plugs as well so...I'll try a highway run and see what happens
#4
I did the same thing, I am back on a K27 more than happy with the performance.
#6
You have to let the car be in driving temperature and then put a Carbon Monoxide tester that is available from Bosch and see how it is. You can do it at a dealership or at home, adjust the CO level.
Does your exhaust tip become very "black" after the boost comes on ?
#7
If the car is running rich and was started for several very short periods of time - not uncommon when doing work - it could be fouled plugs. As MM said - go for a drive - a few runs up to redline should clear them up - that has happened to me.
Also - IMO every owner of one of these should get an adjustable WUR - Brian Leask is back to doing it and if you haven't gotten yours modified already do it - best money you'll spend. You'll also want to install an AFR gauge. Many people tune with an AFR gauge and fuel pressure gauges (that is the proper way) - but I must admit I only used my AFR gauge. There are tons of threads - some here - more over on the pelican 930 forum about what your AFRs should be at cold start, warm idle, boost threshold, under full boost, etc. properly dialed in with an adjustable WUR - these cars run fantastic (for CIS .
Also - IMO every owner of one of these should get an adjustable WUR - Brian Leask is back to doing it and if you haven't gotten yours modified already do it - best money you'll spend. You'll also want to install an AFR gauge. Many people tune with an AFR gauge and fuel pressure gauges (that is the proper way) - but I must admit I only used my AFR gauge. There are tons of threads - some here - more over on the pelican 930 forum about what your AFRs should be at cold start, warm idle, boost threshold, under full boost, etc. properly dialed in with an adjustable WUR - these cars run fantastic (for CIS .
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#10
didnt work...still rough ..took it out on a highway ...had to drive about 15 minutes to the nearest one...just love driving this beautiful car through local traffic with it sputtering/missing the whole way..,happy thoughts....
#13
They will only be perfect if they are EFI, Motronic other wise CIS is a PITA.
#14
Did you run it up to redline under boost a few times?
If it's a vacuum leak - there aren't many hoses that could be the culprit. I'd check the intercooler/throttle body connection first. Then just go over the various lines that connect to the intercooler. Check the bypass valve connections - those can be easy to forget.
If it's a vacuum leak - there aren't many hoses that could be the culprit. I'd check the intercooler/throttle body connection first. Then just go over the various lines that connect to the intercooler. Check the bypass valve connections - those can be easy to forget.