Tips for rejuvenating sill and shark fin
#1
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Tips for rejuvenating sill and shark fin
I have removed the sill and shark fin on both my NA 964 and Turbo 3.6. The common point in both cars is that people have been in before me and tried to force the panels off without understanding how they are fixed. First thing to understand is that both the sharks fin and sill have some bolted fittings and some clip fittings. To remove these without damage you must undo the bolted fixing and then pop the clips off. This photo shows the sill and shark fin removed.
Last edited by John McM; 07-11-2014 at 06:09 AM.
#2
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From: Auckland, New Zealand.
On the Turbo 3.6 there are two bolts (two rear most fixing points) and one clip on the shark fin. On the sill there is one bolt (closet to the front wheel) and six clips.
To remove the Sharkfin you need to remove the rear wheel, remove the inner guard plastic and undo the two plastic nuts fastening the bolts, plus the myriad of screws. Finally, using a plastic lever (specialist tools are less than $20 for a set - well worth it) you pop the clip.
To remove the sill you take the front wheel off, remove the cover closest to the sill and undo the plastic nut fastening the bolt. You then use the plastic lever to pop the clips off. Finally you undo the plastic nuts holding the bottom of the sill.
It is self explanatory really. The only trick is knowing how the fin and sill are fixed.
To remove the Sharkfin you need to remove the rear wheel, remove the inner guard plastic and undo the two plastic nuts fastening the bolts, plus the myriad of screws. Finally, using a plastic lever (specialist tools are less than $20 for a set - well worth it) you pop the clip.
To remove the sill you take the front wheel off, remove the cover closest to the sill and undo the plastic nut fastening the bolt. You then use the plastic lever to pop the clips off. Finally you undo the plastic nuts holding the bottom of the sill.
It is self explanatory really. The only trick is knowing how the fin and sill are fixed.
Last edited by John McM; 07-11-2014 at 06:59 AM.
#3
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From: Auckland, New Zealand.
If you are lucky, no one has been in before you. If not then you will need to order some parts. The Turbo clip and bolt clip are not the same as the normally aspirated cars.
You need:
- 13 grommets part # 99970216040
- 13 clips part # 99959199140
- 6 bolt clips part # 99959199000
You will likely want to replaced the rubber. The shark fin rubber is 9655592950001C and 965559260001C. The Side sill rubber 9655592940001C and 9655592930001C
You need:
- 13 grommets part # 99970216040
- 13 clips part # 99959199140
- 6 bolt clips part # 99959199000
You will likely want to replaced the rubber. The shark fin rubber is 9655592950001C and 965559260001C. The Side sill rubber 9655592940001C and 9655592930001C
Last edited by John McM; 07-11-2014 at 07:00 AM.
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#9
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From: Auckland, New Zealand.
If you are rejuvenating the sills and shark fin, it's likely that the protective plastic film stone guards are old and yellow.
Before you even start, weigh up the condition of the plastic film versus the risk of lifting clear coat and been worse, paint, when removing the old film. My car is a repaint and I speak from hard won experience that you don't want to go there unless you are sure of the paint quality. If you are convinced it needs to be done, then get a heat gun or hair dryer and do your best to warm the plastic and adhesive before you attempt to remove it. Do it slowly and carefully.
When the old film is off, clean the area well with a suitable liquid. I use panel shop wax and grease remover.
You then need to source new plastic. The OEM numbers are:
Upper left 965-559-325-00-3YK-M260
Upper right 965-559-326-00-3YK-M260
Lower left 965-559-327-00-3YK-M260
Lower right 965-559-328-00-3YK-M260
The total cost from PP is USD 171. Not knocking them, as it's an OEM product but heck that's expensive for less than a square metre of plastic film. I have kept the paper backing as a template and will talk to the local 3M rep to source some plastic.
Placing the film is not that tricky if you do the following:
1. Wet the area to be fitted with a solution of water and a drop of washing liquid or similar
2. Use latex gloves when removing the backing, to avoid finger prints.
3. With the backing removed, place the film in the rough position.
4. Gently slide the decal into the correct position and start to work out bubbles etc with a sponge. I used one that has a nylon pot scrubber backing. I used a very slight moist sponge. You want it it be firm enough to work out bubbles without damaging the film.
If you use the solution you will have plenty of chances to get the positioning right. Work methodically.
After that, fit the shark fins.
Before you even start, weigh up the condition of the plastic film versus the risk of lifting clear coat and been worse, paint, when removing the old film. My car is a repaint and I speak from hard won experience that you don't want to go there unless you are sure of the paint quality. If you are convinced it needs to be done, then get a heat gun or hair dryer and do your best to warm the plastic and adhesive before you attempt to remove it. Do it slowly and carefully.
When the old film is off, clean the area well with a suitable liquid. I use panel shop wax and grease remover.
You then need to source new plastic. The OEM numbers are:
Upper left 965-559-325-00-3YK-M260
Upper right 965-559-326-00-3YK-M260
Lower left 965-559-327-00-3YK-M260
Lower right 965-559-328-00-3YK-M260
The total cost from PP is USD 171. Not knocking them, as it's an OEM product but heck that's expensive for less than a square metre of plastic film. I have kept the paper backing as a template and will talk to the local 3M rep to source some plastic.
Placing the film is not that tricky if you do the following:
1. Wet the area to be fitted with a solution of water and a drop of washing liquid or similar
2. Use latex gloves when removing the backing, to avoid finger prints.
3. With the backing removed, place the film in the rough position.
4. Gently slide the decal into the correct position and start to work out bubbles etc with a sponge. I used one that has a nylon pot scrubber backing. I used a very slight moist sponge. You want it it be firm enough to work out bubbles without damaging the film.
If you use the solution you will have plenty of chances to get the positioning right. Work methodically.
After that, fit the shark fins.
#11
I used a rubber spatula head.
#12
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Any idea whether this is a special quality film or just a standard 3M product?
#13
It could be that Porsche have their own proprietary film but I'm not sure. The 3M films works fine anyway.
#15
Quick observation - aren't there _14_ clips and grommets - 7 per side? Only reason I bring this up as in case somebody plans to go ahead and order all the parts prior to doing the project and they could be one short...
Unless I'm missing something.
Unless I'm missing something.